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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > FULL DETAIL Int/Ext- LE MANS BLUE - BMW 335i LCI Coupe– +Minor Correction



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      03-25-2012, 01:12 PM   #1
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FULL DETAIL Int/Ext- LE MANS BLUE - BMW 335i LCI Coupe– +Minor Correction

FULL DETAIL Int/Ext- LE MANS BLUE - BMW 335i LCI Coupe– +Minor Correction



Quote:
This full detail process includes minor correction to get rid of surface marring courtesy of an improper wash once in this vehicle’s lifetime. Nothing major but to me, an eyesore.
Total time – about 18 hours split up over four days.
Equipment used:
Quote:
-Gilmour Foammaster II foam gun
-Porter Cable 7424XP buffer w/ Meguiar’s 5.5” backing plate
-Detailed Image full size detail brush
-5 gallon buckets + grit guards
-Detailed Image Accessories – Foam Swabs/Rigid Head
-Lake Country Detailing Sticks
-Powerful flashlight
List of detailing products used:
Quote:
-Optimum Car Wash
-Optimum No-Rinse
-Optimum Instant Detailer
-Optimum Leather Protectant
-Optimum Metal Polish
-Sheepskin wash mitts
-Meguiar’s clay
-Meguiar’s M105 Ultra Cut Compound
-Meguiar’s M205 Ultra Finishing Polish
-Meguiar’s M40 (Vinyl and Rubber Cleaner and Conditioner)
-Chemical Guys EZ Crème Glaze with Acrylic Shine II
-Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant
-SONAX Full Effect Wheel Cleaner
-303 Aerospace Protectant
-3M Blue painter’s tapex
Pads (5.5”):
Quote:
-Lake Country Orange light cutting
-Lake Country Black finishing
-Lake Country Blue fine finishing
Towels:
Quote:
-Detailed Image 16”x16” all-purpose microfiber
-Detailed Image Great White Towel 16”x24”
-Detailed Image Waffle Weave Drying Towel 36”x24”
-Detailed Image Microfiber Applicator Pads
After a track day
Quote:
I held off on the detail until after an HPDE. Here’s what I started with (notice the outline of my numbers on the door ).
There were minor surface swirls thanks to a careless wash (not done by me). Paint overall in great shape though.




STEP 1: Initial Wash
Quote:
The traditional two-bucket method; I like Optimum Car Wash, it’s slippery and foams up extremely nice. I am using a Gilmour Foammaster II foam gun to expedite the process (set to “C”).




STEP 2: Clay
Quote:
I went straight to claying after the initial wash and did not bother to dry the car; there is no need to touch the paint more than necessary. I use Meguiar’s clay since it’s soft and easily moldable. Some clay I used in the past is simply too hard and doesn’t have the flexibility of Meguiar’s. I use Optimum Instant Detailer for a clay lubricant.
I didn’t get much off the paint. It’s been protected by sealant nearly all its life.



STEP 3: Polish
Quote:
This is the hard part and took me 8-10 hours. Porter Cable 7424XP w/ 5.5” pads on speed 6, using an orange light cutting pad w/ Meguiar’s M105 to start and a black pad w/ Meguiar’s M205 as a finishing polish. I did it one panel at a time, cleaning the panel first with Optimum No Rinse and drying with microfiber. Treat each panel independently; tape up the edges with 3M blue painter’s tape. I do 2 ft. x 2ft squares at a time (or equivalent area). Buff off polish with microfiber when finished.




Quote:
BMW’s Le Mans blue paint is HARD and required many passes. I could have saved major time here using 4” pads, possibly stepping up to a more aggressive yellow pad. The curves of this car, especially the front bumper, made polishing difficult at times and I resorted to a hand applicator for some areas.
I went through 4x orange and 3x black pads. It is VERY important to have proper lighting; have a portable spotlight or flashlight with you – even if you’re polishing during the daytime.
STEP 4: Wash
Quote:
Lots of dust accumulates during the polishing process – a full wash is required before continuing. This is a good time to call it a day and pick up the next (precisely what I did). Only wash the car when you’re ready to immediately move onto glazing/sealing.
Unlike the initial wash, this time the car needs to be dried. THIS IS WHERE PEOPLE SCREW UP. Dry carefully with microfiber. INSPECT the microfiber first – remove any tags if it’s new and look for embedded particles. I use white microfiber to dry my car since it’s easy to spot particles that could scratch. Don’t rub, just place the microfiber on the surface and blot up the water. Aka “the blotting method”.


STEP 5: Glaze and Sealant
Quote:
This should immediately follow the wash. I applied glaze and sealant to the ENTIRE car including the glass and window trim. I apply EZ Crème glaze using my Porter Cable with a blue pad. Let it dry to a haze, buff off by hand with a microfiber towel. The glaze will fill in any imperfections (including hiding minor scratches) and give you a perfectly smooth surface to work with.
Then I applied Blackfire Wet Diamond using a blue pad as well, buffing off after it dried to a haze.

The sealant takes 24 hours to cure. Don’t do anything else to the paint during this time. I apply a second coat of sealant at my next maintenance wash. Sealant lasts for months, unlike wax.
Wax can be applied on top of sealant but I don’t bother.


STEP 6: Wheels
Quote:
Wheels are last; Sonax wheel cleaner works wonders to start - simply wet the wheel, spray, and wait. I use a detail brush with some of the Optimum Car Wash to finish it. My wheels are spoke-y and time consuming to clean, hence I save this as the last exterior step.
Dry wheels using a blo-vac if you have it, otherwise get in there with a microfiber towel.
Meguiar’s M40 for tire dressing.


Quote:
[Not shown] – my wheels are protected by EZ Crème Glaze and Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant. I apply it 2x a year, it makes maintenance washes much easier since dust and dirt do not stick. Best to take the wheels off the car to do this.
STEP 7: Exhaust Tips
Quote:
My BMW Performance Exhaust has polished chrome tips which show dirt like no other. Optimum Metal Polish and a microfiber towel work well.



STEP 8: Interior
Quote:
My interior was already clean so I didn’t have much to do. The following took me less than one hour (in order):
1. Wipe down glass with damp microfiber (no chemicals since I have tint)
2. Remove floormats and rinse off
3. Wipe down dash and non-upholstery with 303 Aerospace Protectant
4. Use foam detail brushes/sticks to get air vents and other hard-to-reach areas (like CD player slot)
5. Wipe down upholstery with Optimum Leather Protectant
6. Vacuum carpets
7. Wipe down steering wheel with moist microfiber towel (my wheel is alcantara so there is not much that can be done. Use diluted Woolite if alcantara is matted or extra dirty)
I do **NOT** clean my pedals as the rubber can become slippery, which is a safety issue (especially if you have a clutch pedal).




STEP 9: Rubber Seal Treatment
Quote:
I use Meguiar’s M40 roughly 4x a year on all rubber seals, exterior and interior – door, trunk, the rubber windshield surround, etc. This keeps them flexible and prevents them from oxidizing. M40 is also an excellent tire dressing and lasts a long time. Great product even for non-automotive uses.


END RESULT
Quote:
Everything "on the paint" is a REFLECTION.










Quote:
Water beading action - look at that!



Quote:
The sun finally came out.



STEP 10: Caring for Detailing Supplies/Equipment
Quote:
You’re not done until you take care of your equipment and supplies.
-Wash buckets out thoroughly, they should be clean for use next time.
-Rinse the wash mitts thoroughly and hang them indoors to dry somewhere clean and room temperature.
-Microfiber care is OVERLOOKED. Don’t ruin yours by treating it like common laundry. I sort mine depending on how dirty it is; the dirty towels I put aside and use them as beater towels for later. The clean-looking towels I wash separately in the washing machine using a small amount of non-scented detergent (1/4 of what is required for the requisite load; put washing machine on “Permanent Press”). Then dry on low heat without any dryer sheets or additives. If you aren’t careful, the microfiber will lose its effectiveness quickly (absorbency, especially) and you therefore lose your investment. My goal is to make my microfiber last a year at least.
-After washing and drying the microfiber, put it in a plastic bag and keep it away from dust, etc. You don’t want it collecting any particles before your next wash unless you like scratching your paint.
-All your liquid supplies should be kept out of sunlight in a room temperature area.
---
---
---
THANK YOU FOR READING
SPECIAL THANKS TO MIKE @ AUTO AESTHETICA (www.detailwny.com) FOR ADVICE + SUPPLIES
SPECIAL THANKS TO GREG @ DETAILED IMAGE FOR SUPPLIES
PM ME IF YOU NEED HELP
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Last edited by CJ421; 03-25-2012 at 05:49 PM..
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      03-25-2012, 03:08 PM   #2
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Does your car ever get more dirty than those first pictures? It looks great before and even better after!
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      03-25-2012, 03:11 PM   #3
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Looks fantastic! Great work!
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      03-25-2012, 03:18 PM   #4
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wash my car too plz
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      03-25-2012, 07:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Park2670 View Post
Does your car ever get more dirty than those first pictures? It looks great before and even better after!
I thought it was pretty dirty ... all the brake dust, etc. The car never looks much dirtier than that actually. A detail like this goes a long way towards keeping the car looking clean in the long run.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdalpha View Post
Looks fantastic! Great work!
Thank you sir!

Added some sun shots.
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      03-25-2012, 07:44 PM   #6
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Great job man. I was looking for a good leather conditioner. I'll give the optimum products a try. Btw, what % tint do you have on your windows? I want something like yours, not too dark...
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      03-25-2012, 07:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmedrano View Post
Great job man. I was looking for a good leather conditioner. I'll give the optimum products a try. Btw, what % tint do you have on your windows? I want something like yours, not too dark...
Thanks! I have 35% on the side windows and 20% on the rear windscreen, nothing on the windshield. 3M Color Stable.
I suggest going one shade darker on the rear windscreen, that way the tint appears even when looking through the car at an angle.
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      03-25-2012, 11:04 PM   #8
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Do you have any closer pictures of the paint? Not doubting your skills. I just like close up reflection shots.
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      03-25-2012, 11:14 PM   #9
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How about this one?

Specific angles let me know ... I'll see if I can grab some tomorrow.
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      03-25-2012, 11:30 PM   #10
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Here's a few more,
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Last edited by CJ421; 03-25-2012 at 11:39 PM..
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      03-25-2012, 11:43 PM   #11
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Is your car out of commission for a few days while you do this?
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      03-26-2012, 01:47 AM   #12
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yes thats what i was looking for....much better
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      03-26-2012, 02:47 AM   #13
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Paint looks great, don't forget the fender wells and rear plastic around the tail pipes.
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      03-26-2012, 08:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magungo View Post
Is your car out of commission for a few days while you do this?
Not really but I prefer to knock it all out while the car is not being moved. Best time to drive around is during the polishing phase, when I'm going panel by panel. Car looks funny but it doesn't really interrupt anything driving around.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryballz View Post
Paint looks great, don't forget the fender wells and rear plastic around the tail pipes.
Thanks man. I cleaned up the diffuser and wheel wells during my 2nd wash after the pics were taken and applied another coat of sealant as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lopealle View Post
yes thats what i was looking for....much better
Thanks. It's my first time using M205, I can't say it "wowed" me in any particular way.

--

Edit: I didn't mention it in the writeup but the 303 Aerospace Protectant is a BRILLIANT product.
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Last edited by CJ421; 03-26-2012 at 08:24 AM..
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      03-26-2012, 09:54 AM   #15
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Dude looks great as always, I should have put some pics up after my detail. I only polished some trouble areas that I noticed. In hind sight next time I will just do the entire car. But polishing is a shit load of work. I also didn't use the klausse sealent the correct way so wound up having to redo it (much better the 2nd time around). I use the 303 on everything ( obviously not the carpet stuff), think I should use something else for the seats?

Also I take off the handle on the porter cable for polishing horizontal surfaces and use it for verticle only. I feel is lessens the chance of an accidental hit on the paint.
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      03-26-2012, 10:44 AM   #16
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Charles what brush did you use on the wheels there? I hate my wheel brush and I know your wheels are as much of a PITA as mine are. If you like yours, I need to get one.

(sorry if it's already in the list you provided - i couldn't tell for sure what you were using on the wheels by the description)

ps - god DAMN is le mans blue a great color.
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      03-26-2012, 12:16 PM   #17
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Looks awesome!!! And thanks for the advice about 24 hours for the Wet Diamond seal to cure, will be using on my E91's first full detail this weekend...
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      03-26-2012, 01:46 PM   #18
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I just detailed mine last week as well but not as extensively as this... Well done man.
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      03-26-2012, 02:08 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aacaron View Post
Dude looks great as always, I should have put some pics up after my detail. I only polished some trouble areas that I noticed. In hind sight next time I will just do the entire car. But polishing is a shit load of work. I also didn't use the klausse sealent the correct way so wound up having to redo it (much better the 2nd time around). I use the 303 on everything ( obviously not the carpet stuff), think I should use something else for the seats?

Also I take off the handle on the porter cable for polishing horizontal surfaces and use it for verticle only. I feel is lessens the chance of an accidental hit on the paint.
You can use 303 on everything including seats - once I use up the Optimum, I'll probably just use the 303 for everything (simply my product inventory).

Good idea taking off the PC's handle, I ended up not using it about half the time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkr335 View Post
Charles what brush did you use on the wheels there? I hate my wheel brush and I know your wheels are as much of a PITA as mine are. If you like yours, I need to get one.

(sorry if it's already in the list you provided - i couldn't tell for sure what you were using on the wheels by the description)

ps - god DAMN is le mans blue a great color.
Yes these wheels are a chore to clean, I budget 10 minutes a wheel including drying.
This brush - http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Brus.../Full-Size-S1/
On sale right now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zanth119 View Post
Looks awesome!!! And thanks for the advice about 24 hours for the Wet Diamond seal to cure, will be using on my E91's first full detail this weekend...
You're welcome. You can apply a second coat of the sealant at your next maintenance wash for extra protection.
Do post pics of the detail.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3_runner View Post
I just detailed mine last week as well but not as extensively as this... Well done man.
Thank you!
You can always break up the detail into small parts. Order I did this one:
Day 1: Initial wash, clay - 4 hrs
Day 2: Polish - 4 hrs
Day 3: Polish - 4 hrs
Day 4: Finish polish, wash, glaze/seal, wheels (everything else, basically) - 6 hrs
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      03-26-2012, 08:15 PM   #20
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LOVE IT!!!!
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      03-26-2012, 08:22 PM   #21
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Great job
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      03-27-2012, 04:41 PM   #22
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Wow that paint looks great and interiors dont usually grab me but it looks superb.
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