[scotthilly]

Hi all,

Wanted to log my experience with a few different issues I'm facing in hopes of getting feedback and helping anyone that experiences this again.

Car - 2011 335i, 6mt, 88k miles, stock beside mppk and mpe
Recent maintenance - spark plugs, coil packs, oil pressure sensor, charge pipe, valvetronic servomotor all within 10k. See below for further explanation.

Last month - everything running fine until CEL. Codes were
2DCE (Valvetronic - no adjustment possible)
2EOF (Valvetronic - deactviated).

Took to my indy and he replaced the valvetronic servomotor itself and the valve cover gasket for $1300. He noted they had trouble reflashing the system and had to do so 4-5 times to get the valvetronic to relearn, and said I might have some weird quirks and might need a software update. As I planned to bring the car back 2 weeks later I was ok with that.

So far, in 8 cold starts, I've had the *cold start sequence to 1200 rpm* *after 30 seconds, dip down to 900 rpm (normal)*, then dip down to 500rpm for one second then catch itself, *then back to 700. This has happened every time and it seems to idle slightly rough but again, only on the first start of the day.

Any warm start, and once warm, car idles totally fine. In normal driving it is perfect. I should note for the lifetime of my ownership (15k) I'll get a crank or two longer than normal on warm starts (wondering if hpfp is on it's way or if it's the starter).

On a drive yesterday of 250 miles, I noted some hesitation betwee 4-6k at full throttle in 2nd gear on highway pulls. I'm on 225' older Blizzaks so I wondered if it was DTC stepping in. Tried full throttle once more and immediately got the CEL and some violent shaking with the following codes.

P0305 - cylinder 5 misfire
2eof - valvetronic deactivated
2d43 - valvetronic adjustment fault range
2fac - combustion miss, spark duration, cylinder 5
2efe - misfire, several cylinders
2fo3 - cylinder 5 misfire damaging cats
2eeo - fuel injection deactivation

I'm going back to the shop on Monday. I'm thinking there's correlation between the valvetronic replacement, immediate cold start weirdness, and the misfires. I'm not sure if my shop damaged an injector, or if a coil pack or spark plug is slighty off, or if the valvetronic needs to be reflashed once more or if it's the need for a software update. I'm leaning towards valvetronic reflash because of the fact that code keeps coming up

If it is an injector I'm hoping my guy will at least split the cost with me. Is that crazy?

I'll come back with a diagnosis but if anyone knows anything in the meantime, please don't hesitate to chime in. I've found countless threads where the above list of items (injector, coil pack, plugs, etc) was the issue. With that said, very few people have had valvetronic codes come up with the misfire.

[Raghza]

This part sounds weird to me:
"He noted they had trouble reflashing the system and had to do so 4-5 times to get the valvetronic to relearn, and said I might have some weird quirks and might need a software update."

So were they able to successfully recalibrate the Valvetronic or not? If it couldn't complete for the first 3 times, it's doubtful that everything went fine the 4th time.

Since I've dealt with all possible Valvetronic issues myself for a while, here's what should be done in the following order:
1) Replace Valvetronic motor
2) Recalibrate
3) If this fails, update DME with the latest software
4) Recalibrate
5) If this fails, replace the Valvetronic eccentric shaft
6) Recalibrate
7) If this fails, repair or replace the DME

[scotthilly]

Originally Posted by Raghza

This part sounds weird to me:
"He noted they had trouble reflashing the system and had to do so 4-5 times to get the valvetronic to relearn, and said I might have some weird quirks and might need a software update."

So were they able to successfully recalibrate the Valvetronic or not? If it couldn't complete for the first 3 times, it's doubtful that everything went fine the 4th time.

Since I've dealt with all possible Valvetronic issues myself for a while, here's what should be done in the following order:
1) Replace Valvetronic motor
2) Recalibrate
3) If this fails, update DME with the latest software
4) Recalibrate
5) If this fails, replace the Valvetronic eccentric shaft
6) Recalibrate
7) If this fails, repair or replace the DME

Thanks! That's my thought process as well. He told me they were able to but that it took a few efforts.

Either way, the car got taken back to him this morning. I'll update the thread accordingly with how it went.

[scotthilly]

Just got the car back after a few other things done.

Fortunately, a new ignition coil and software update fixed the issues and all is well. If anyone faces this issue fingers crossed the ignition coil or spark plug is to blame.

Unfortunately, this got rid of the MPPK flash the previous owner had done (he didn’t have it done at a dealer). So I’m back to figuring out, again, how to get the car running perfectly.

[wrevilo]

That's progress.

I have my own Valvetronic issues, which manifest themself in hunting at idle and regular issues at constant, light part throttle where the car effectively engine brakes for a split second before regaining regular drive. This is visible on the Valvetronic live data, but I have no codes yet. I'll be replacing part 11377603979.

[scotthilly]

Originally Posted by wrevilo

That's progress.

I have my own Valvetronic issues, which manifest themself in hunting at idle and regular issues at constant, light part throttle where the car effectively engine brakes for a split second before regaining regular drive. This is visible on the Valvetronic live data, but I have no codes yet. I'll be replacing part 11377603979.

Yep, as you probably know that's the exact part number I replaced. Hope it solves the issues.

[oVeRdOsE.]

just had those code this weekend, but the actuator dont make the typical funny noise when unlocking the car.
However the car might shutdown on the road...

I might simply adapt and test via ISTA+, it might run the electric motor all the way and maybe buy time.

I dont want to do this job right now. 100k miles issue are poping out. Not bad tho, this engine is all original.

[wrevilo]

I have spoken with the mechanic working on my car. He has undertaken the Valvetronic actuator, injectors, decouplers and valve cover gasket among a number of other things.

He has really struggled to get the car to relearn the Valvetronic and needed to do it many, many times. He has concerns over the eccentric shaft and thinks that might need to be replaced in the future.

Hopefully, I can collect the car over this long weekend and get back to enjoying it at full health!

How are you guys getting on?

[scotthilly]

Mine's been great since replacement! Fingers crossed it works for you soon as well.

[wrevilo]

Well I picked up my car yesterday and have since driven it home and to work. I mentioned that the mechanic was having issues with the Valvetronic and this is visible in the codes that are now present. The mechanic's opinion is that it has lost the min and max set points and that the 'tight spot' it has found is incorrect. My concern is that the valvetronic eccentric shaft has worn over time and mileage, leading to specific spots that has caused the shaft movement to bind.

I'm really gutted after having replaced a lot of parts at decent expense in terms of money and time. I like the car, but it this aspect of ownership is not remotely enjoyable. If the shaft has gone I know it is even more of the same.

Any ideas welcome.

- DME active codes -
2D43 - Valvetronic, adjustment range: Fault range check.

- DME shadow (inactive) codes -
2D41 - Valvetronic, adjustment range: Master adaptation outside tolerances.
2D45 - Valvetronic, adjustment range: Stop not taught in due to ambient conditions.
2DD0 - Valvetronic system: Control deviation warning threshold value exceeded.

[wrevilo]

Update time.

I have cleared the codes, which have not returned yet. However, idle is still not entirely smooth. Happily, the part throttle issues have gone so the car is fully driveable.

I spoke to another mechanic who knows the car. It turns out he has experience with Valvetronic on a number of different engines. He suspects the eccentric shaft is binding and that this could be related to the plastic guides/bearings. I am going to get the car booked in with him to investigate. The other mechanic who installed the new Valvetronic actuator doesn't do work on the shaft.

[wrevilo]

I wanted to provide further update after using the car for regular commutes and it having been to the other mechanic last week.

He undertook the Valvetronic relearning procedure as a first stage in his understanding of this particular matter. He reported it went through the ~450 cycles with no issues. However, I am still experiencing a few issues that may be related and I'll pop down to see him later today to discuss further:

• RPM surging and dying to near stall on initial manoeuvres after cold start
• Slightly lumpy idle
• Potentially sometimes not feeling as fast as expected

I have logged these issues with MHD and link these below. I would really appreciate if anyone with experience of looking at logs could input as to whether these are definitely Valvetronic related or could be anything else?

• Cold start, reverse and pull away: https://datazap.me/u/wrevilo/log-171...og=0&data=4-20
• Full throttle pull: https://datazap.me/u/wrevilo/log-171...og=0&data=4-20
• Lumpy idle: https://datazap.me/u/wrevilo/log-171...og=0&data=4-20

For reference the car has no codes presently and is running the v1.60 Stage 1+ map for 98 RON. Boost sometimes seems to fall away quite quickly and I think I felt this in the log above.

[scotthilly]

I had the same general issues post valvetronic relearn, thought I didn't map it. But I'd get timing occasionally pulled, weird idles, and sometimes strange actions (felt like it was going to stall then would catch).

I ended up replacing 2 ignition coils and it worked perfectly. Some if not all have to be removed for the valvetronic procedure, and I believe my mechanic might've made a mistake or removed them too aggressively.

Hopefully it's as simply as coils as they're not too expensive or hard. Thanks for updating this.

[wrevilo]

Thank you for the further feedback! What you have reported sounds very like my symptoms. How did you diagnose which coils needed to be replaced? Also, is there a general recommendation as to which coils suit the N55 best?

I'll mention this to my mechanic to get his thoughts.

[scotthilly]

The codes I was getting was for a misfire in cyl 5, so he traced it to that one. The code only came on during intense driving - think back to back to back 0-60's or redline rips. Maybe that's a good excuse to drive fast

I believe the delphi coils don't always pair well, but I think he used the bmw oem parts. All bmw oem parts come with a 2 year warranty which is nice especially for something like coils / plugs that can randomly go bad.

[wrevilo]

That's interesting. I have no codes at present but haven't been driving the car mega hard in a sustained way due to mostly commuting. I'll try to get out for a good rip this weekend to see if anything changes.