[atran38]

BIMMERPOST / Classifieds

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I came across an 07 E92 that was disclosed as being repaired by BMW. Its an 07 with prem, sport, auto with paddles, park distance, heated seats, dynamic cruise control and has 12,000miles. The repair was in the front end, replacing the hood and left/right fender and front bumper. Airgbags seems original. Its about $12k of damage and comes with clear title. Repairs did not show up on Carfax and Autocheck. As a matter of fact, both shows it as a clean car. The repairs looks good with no overspray. Question is, what will you pay for a car with a known accident? The dealer is asking $36k but im sure no one is going to pay that price.

[328i]

Originally Posted by atran38

I came across an 07 E92 that was disclosed as being repaired by BMW. Its an 07 with prem, sport, auto with paddles, park distance, heated seats, dynamic cruise control and has 12,000miles. The repair was in the front end, replacing the hood and left/right fender and front bumper. Airgbags seems original. Its about $12k of damage and comes with clear title. Repairs did not show up on Carfax and Autocheck. As a matter of fact, both shows it as a clean car. The repairs looks good with no overspray. Question is, what will you pay for a car with a known accident? The dealer is asking $36k but im sure no one is going to pay that price.

That's an ok price if the car was in mint shape, but for that much I would stay away from it. Cars are a bargain now, hold out for something nicer.

[atran38]

thats my thought as well. It looks like KBB just dropped their valuation again on the e92 but sellers have been resisting to budge on their pricings.

[ArmyBimmerDude]

Yeah, prices will be going down for lots of vehicles. Nows the time to buy if you're looking.

[5150335i]

It all depends on the nature of the repairs and how much they are willing to deal. The other posters are correct when they say it is a buyer's market. I purchased my certified '08 Montego 335i coupe with 20,000 miles from Mountain View BMW for $35,400 about six weeks ago (BTW, great service). If there is absolutely no frame damage and the dealership is willing to certify the car, it might be a good deal at or below $30,000. Otherwise, run away.

Good luck in your car search!

[5150335i]

One more thing...if you decide to go with this car, have it checked out at another dealership. The inspection fee in a case like this is cheap insurance!

[The_Dude]

FWIW I was a buyer for Carmax and have bought thousands of cars at auction and at the retail stores as trade-ins, so I think I may offer a qualified opinion. First, Carfax and Autocheck are only as good as the agencies who report the data (police, auctions houses, maintenance facilities, insurance companies and bodyshops, et al). Keep in mind that if I wrap my car around a tree and pay to have it repaired (no cops, no ins) on a frame rack and reweld the unibody, it will still have a clean title and a clean carfax and autocheck despite meeting many states definitions of rebuilt/salvage title. Also be wary if the car has been recently titled in different states, often attempting to remove title brands.

As far as the damage goes, BMWs can be tricky since they use extensive plastic cladding to cover the fender and inner apron, as well as not having conventional pinch rails. First, remove the fender trim and look for witness marks and broken paint on the bolts attaching the fender to the inner apron. Next look deeper behind the headlights where the inner apron ties together with the upper and lower core supports. These welds should be very clean and painted from the factory. Look for obvious spot welds, or broken factory welds as a sure sign indicator of more than just a "fender bender". Use your finger pads to run the edge of panels to feel for obvious paintwork. If done at a decent bodyshop they will wetsand the overspray, but it should still be visible under close scrutiny. Also look for orange peel, fish eyes and debris in the paint as a dead giveaway. Those less inclined can use a paintmeter. And since BMW doesn't have traditional pinch rails along the underside of the unibody, you have to remove the sills and pull down the body cladding to look for evidence of clamp marks, but giveaways like door bolts being turned and spot welds or bondo under the door sills can easily be checked by pulling the scuff plates and weather stripping around the door.

With all that being said, how much does it affect the value of the car? 2 panels of paint with no damage, not at all (esp bumper covers, which don't count as panels in the auto industry). Any more than 2 panels and some body repairs (bolts turned, bondo etc) is in the neighborhood of 1-3 grand less, depending on the severity of the damage and the quality of repairs. Any frame damage on this late of a model car will lower the value by at least 5 grand, if not more. Any major title brands can decrease the value by as much as HALF (Rebuilt/Salvage/Theft Recovery/Gray Market, etc).

Bottom line, if you're looking to get into a 335 for cheap, and are willing to drive it until the doors fall off, by all means, I would buy a car that had been repaired by a quality shop. Don't expect to trade it in after a year and get top dollar though. The other thing to consider is safety. I would not let my wife drive in a car that had been repaired from major frame damage, and I like to use the aluminum can analogy; Once it's been dented, you can remove the dent, but to do the same damage to the can the next time will take a lot less force.

Feel free if you have any more questions, I'll be glad to help out.

[atran38]

Originally Posted by The_Dude

FWIW I was a buyer for Carmax and have bought thousands of cars at auction and at the retail stores as trade-ins, so I think I may offer a qualified opinion. First, Carfax and Autocheck are only as good as the agencies who report the data (police, auctions houses, maintenance facilities, insurance companies and bodyshops, et al). Keep in mind that if I wrap my car around a tree and pay to have it repaired (no cops, no ins) on a frame rack and reweld the unibody, it will still have a clean title and a clean carfax and autocheck despite meeting many states definitions of rebuilt/salvage title. Also be wary if the car has been recently titled in different states, often attempting to remove title brands.

As far as the damage goes, BMWs can be tricky since they use extensive plastic cladding to cover the fender and inner apron, as well as not having conventional pinch rails. First, remove the fender trim and look for witness marks and broken paint on the bolts attaching the fender to the inner apron. Next look deeper behind the headlights where the inner apron ties together with the upper and lower core supports. These welds should be very clean and painted from the factory. Look for obvious spot welds, or broken factory welds as a sure sign indicator of more than just a "fender bender". Use your finger pads to run the edge of panels to feel for obvious paintwork. If done at a decent bodyshop they will wetsand the overspray, but it should still be visible under close scrutiny. Also look for orange peel, fish eyes and debris in the paint as a dead giveaway. Those less inclined can use a paintmeter. And since BMW doesn't have traditional pinch rails along the underside of the unibody, you have to remove the sills and pull down the body cladding to look for evidence of clamp marks, but giveaways like door bolts being turned and spot welds or bondo under the door sills can easily be checked by pulling the scuff plates and weather stripping around the door.

With all that being said, how much does it affect the value of the car? 2 panels of paint with no damage, not at all (esp bumper covers, which don't count as panels in the auto industry). Any more than 2 panels and some body repairs (bolts turned, bondo etc) is in the neighborhood of 1-3 grand less, depending on the severity of the damage and the quality of repairs. Any frame damage on this late of a model car will lower the value by at least 5 grand, if not more. Any major title brands can decrease the value by as much as HALF (Rebuilt/Salvage/Theft Recovery/Gray Market, etc).

Bottom line, if you're looking to get into a 335 for cheap, and are willing to drive it until the doors fall off, by all means, I would buy a car that had been repaired by a quality shop. Don't expect to trade it in after a year and get top dollar though. The other thing to consider is safety. I would not let my wife drive in a car that had been repaired from major frame damage, and I like to use the aluminum can analogy; Once it's been dented, you can remove the dent, but to do the same damage to the can the next time will take a lot less force.

Feel free if you have any more questions, I'll be glad to help out.

Wow! Thanks for the huge help! I decided to pass on the car and will wait until January. It looks like prices keep coming down. I was looking for 2007s but with the prices going the way it has, I'm also looking at 08s.

[atran38]

Originally Posted by 5150335i

It all depends on the nature of the repairs and how much they are willing to deal. The other posters are correct when they say it is a buyer's market. I purchased my certified '08 Montego 335i coupe with 20,000 miles from Mountain View BMW for $35,400 about six weeks ago (BTW, great service). If there is absolutely no frame damage and the dealership is willing to certify the car, it might be a good deal at or below $30,000. Otherwise, run away.

Good luck in your car search!

Thanks for the tip. Awesome price you got on an 08. I can't wait to get mine! Its gonna hafta be in Jan.