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      01-31-2008, 07:38 PM   #1
matt.love84
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who makes jackets/blazers without..

shoulder padding what so ever?

I can't stand it. I'm not a big guy by any means (6' and about 170 pounds) but for some reason I just can't wear a jacket that has it.. it makes the jacket feel huge.

So, anyone know of a designer that makes solid jackets w/o the padding?

Thanks
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      01-31-2008, 07:41 PM   #2
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i think armani does a soft shoulder. it might be gucci, though.

it sounds like the jacket is too big. is the seam on the jacket well outside your shoulder?
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      01-31-2008, 07:45 PM   #3
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head over to your nearest mall and look at different stores
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      01-31-2008, 07:47 PM   #4
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only a bit, maybe I'm a 38R now.

I wouldn't say it's "well" outside. Also, maybe the cut of the jacket just feels big. It's not a newer "armani" jacket.
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      01-31-2008, 08:23 PM   #5
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What do you wear now? Many Italian designers generally have slimmer cut suits. English suits may have less or no padding.
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      01-31-2008, 09:14 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Taittinger View Post
What do you wear now? Many Italian designers generally have slimmer cut suits. English suits may have less or no padding.
yeah at 6' and 170 slim cut would be a good idea.
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      01-31-2008, 09:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt.love84 View Post
shoulder padding what so ever?

I can't stand it. I'm not a big guy by any means (6' and about 170 pounds) but for some reason I just can't wear a jacket that has it.. it makes the jacket feel huge.

So, anyone know of a designer that makes solid jackets w/o the padding?

Thanks
Well, normal look for a suit is for a squared shoulder. That means most makers put in some padding just to smooth the natural slope. My dad has very square shoulders, can't have the padding, so he has it removed when the jacket is bought. A good tailor can do this.

I get my suits made (sadly - can't get them off the rack) and request this when they are made. You want something to reinforce the shoulder to keep it smooth, but it doesn't need to be much. My suits / tux just have a lot of extra fabric in the shoulder - it was an option when I had them made. Check out "made to measure" at a local mens clothing store. It's cheaper than "custom", but gives you 99% of the fit. Samuelson, H Freeman and Hickey Freeman all offer this.
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      01-31-2008, 09:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
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only a bit, maybe I'm a 38R now.

I wouldn't say it's "well" outside. Also, maybe the cut of the jacket just feels big. It's not a newer "armani" jacket.
wow, ok, uh.... Not sure on the smaller sizes. I wear a 54L w/ a 38" waist. I have a much different problem than you. Still consider a custome or made-to-measure jacket. It solves all problems. Expect to pay about $700 for a good suit made-to-measure.
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      02-01-2008, 12:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt.love84 View Post
shoulder padding what so ever?

I can't stand it. I'm not a big guy by any means (6' and about 170 pounds) but for some reason I just can't wear a jacket that has it.. it makes the jacket feel huge.

So, anyone know of a designer that makes solid jackets w/o the padding?

Thanks
Here's the deal. Suits with unstructured shoulders are typically reserved for tropical weight pieces (summer) and they are less formal. The reality is that you can wear a suit with a structured shoulder but what you are wearing currently is not the proper cut. Armani Collezioni has a "New Soft Line" that has less of a structure, but based on your dimensions I wouldn't go this route. Especially if you are thin you should have a cut that gives you more of an hour glass shape with a higher arm hole.

I am a 38R and if I put on a 39R I look like I'm wearing football pads. With suits it's all about getting the proper cut. The best thing to do is go into a good suit store and try a few models on. American manufacturers will be more boxy while European designers will give you that tailored slim line look. I recommend Saks to do your trying on. Start with Hugo Boss (entry level) and work your way on up.
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      02-01-2008, 01:30 AM   #10
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i dont like shoulder pads either.
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      02-01-2008, 11:06 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboFan View Post
wow, ok, uh.... Not sure on the smaller sizes. I wear a 54L w/ a 38" waist. I have a much different problem than you. Still consider a custome or made-to-measure jacket. It solves all problems. Expect to pay about $700 for a good suit made-to-measure.
+1 on the custom or made-to-measure suits.
If you can afford it, this is the way to go. I'm 6'2" and 160ish, tall and thin, 38L is where I'd be with an off-the-rack suit. I was never really comfortable in suits till I bought my first custom one. Now I have four, and anything else just feels big and sloppy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeClothing View Post
Here's the deal. Suits with unstructured shoulders are typically reserved for tropical weight pieces (summer) and they are less formal. The reality is that you can wear a suit with a structured shoulder but what you are wearing currently is not the proper cut. Especially if you are thin you should have a cut that gives you more of an hour glass shape with a higher arm hole.

I am a 38R and if I put on a 39R I look like I'm wearing football pads. With suits it's all about getting the proper cut. The best thing to do is go into a good suit store and try a few models on. American manufacturers will be more boxy while European designers will give you that tailored slim line look.
Like he said, unstructured suits are best for casual/summer environments. A well cut suit will address the shoulder issues, and look at a European style suit with the higher arm-holes. This will give you the strong shoulder, without looking like a linebacker. If you go for a suit off the rack, also check out Calvin Klein.
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