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      02-13-2014, 07:31 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan View Post
Well.. not for the HP. For what it does the S54 is great. S52B32 is a strong motor but if you modify it at all to fix the clear power deficit, it can get unreliable in a hurry. AMHIK. I just think the S54 does not introduce significant complexity over the S52B32 and after 03 you're good to go on reliability. The valve adjustments as you point out can now be done easily and the VANOS fix is MUCH easier on the dual vanos system on the E46 vs the single vanos E36 requiring electrical actuation.

Just my experience. I have owned both. Currently have a VF charged E36 M3.
I dunno, in my experience I sure as hell modified my S52 and found it reliable.

My NA mods were tame, headers, exhaust, intake, pulleys, M50 manifold swap...maybe 250whp on a Dynojet, but never a hiccup up till 70k when I went boost.

As I said below, stock headgasket and everything held for 12k T miles 13psi. I never blew up, never overheated, I only put on a cut ring gasket so I could run more boost and wanted to crack 500hp. I am not talking here about the typical stage 1 non intercooled install running 6psi and barely cracking 300whp.

But to close in much of the gap to an S54, M50 swap, headers and what not, 250whp, still damn reliable and with less maintenance. My car at that power level was an easy high 12 second car.
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      02-13-2014, 07:36 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by bk335 View Post
I can almost guarantee you the 08 M3 will cost more to run than your 335i. Okay, possibly if you have an "unlucky" 335i it might be less reliable, however, it'll still be cheaper to run. Repairs on M3's cost more, brakes cost more, oil costs a LOT more, tires cost a lot more. Everything is just more. The S65 uses an oil that I've yet to see in stores, (10w-60 or something) and buying it from bmw is crazy expensive, just the oil for the change will cost you over $100 versus like $30 for the 335i. Oh yeah, the M3 drinks gas too (and oil for that matter - quart every 2k or so). 14 in the city when driving easy and 21 driving like a grandpa on the highway. Not sure about you but I can get 23/31 in my 335 when taking it easy. The M3 will raise you gas bill by about 60-70% per year. Just gas alone will be nearly $1500 more per year. Honestly, if you really think it'll be cheaper then you're out of your mind. Maybe try to find a different 335i that isn't an "unlucky" one because you just might have one. I have had very few problems with mine, I do all routine maintenance and the only big problem I've had has been 2 HPFP and 1 LPFP. Both weren't big problems because of the warranty. I really think you should reconsider.
Ok, let's separate maintenance vs reliability. I can't speak for the turboed cars, but one of the reasons I picked the E9x M3 was BECAUSE of the good reliability and they are easy to DIY. I'm less afraid of this car being out of warranty than anything out there minus the E36 M3.

Oil change - I run Mobil1 0W40 (let's not start an oil thread). $55 for 10 qts. Add a quart every 2k miles? Never. Only had to add 0.5 qts only once at 4k miles.
Throttle valve actuator - $800. Yea that hurt, but I DIY'ed. As someone said, walnut cleaning costs that much so we're even.
Spark plugs (maintenance) - $90
Rear pads
Tires, but I don't think this should count

That's all I've done to my car. I think that's more than acceptable. Car runs like an absolute champ at close to 80k miles.

OP, depending on your budget, I'd go either E36 or E9x. I was originally going to go for an E46 but decided to skip it, just too much of a maintenance hog for me personally.
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      02-13-2014, 07:55 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtGoldy View Post
Only problem with a 335i is you'll never compete with a M in the corners

but lets f*ck em up in the straight aways! (unless they go FI....)
The word 'never' is a very specific word. Throw on suspension, LSD, and bushings and you're there. Biggest difference that most don't know about is the steering rack, which is swappable.
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      02-13-2014, 08:01 PM   #48
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E36 M if you need back seats or Z4M .. IMO
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      02-17-2014, 01:09 PM   #49
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E36 M3
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      03-10-2014, 09:17 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grizz258 View Post
Doesn't matter what series or year. And please list your explanation why it's the most reliable. As much as I love my E90 335i, Im probably gonna sell it when my warranty ends. I really want a M car that's reliable. Thanks!
Had two end of cycle M3s and both were problem free (e46, e93). E93 has not given me one problem, not even a convertible roof rattle on the crappy streets of NOLA, Houston and the like.

I think on late cycle you are good on M3s

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      03-10-2014, 10:09 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SickFinga View Post
e36 m3

/thread
+1

Diy maintenance is cheap too.
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      03-10-2014, 10:12 PM   #52
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I have to say NA M motors by far are the most reliable, by no means bulletproof. Stock vs stock my N54 (same motor as per 2011 335i) has cost me headache with injectors (even before my tune), and now my fuel pump is going. Don't even mention the summer months here in Vegas at 118 deg F. Had an 08 E93, and now my 2012 E92(gets tracked heavily) and no issues with either Ms. My wife's X5M has gone through quite a few injector as well. It's getting very tiring. Look through the forums and compare reliablility issues of NA vs FI BMWs, and you'll definitely see a difference. All my injectors especially (especially the ones I had to pay for is adding up enough to make up for the price difference on the long run).
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      03-11-2014, 06:04 AM   #53
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M235-HA! Just kidding!

I don't know which one is the most reliable but I know that E46 M3 isn't it and it requires a huge level of responsibility (if you're a DIY guy) OR an equally huge wallet. Well, this is based from my friend's experiences.
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      03-11-2014, 10:15 AM   #54
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E36!!!!!!!!!!
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      03-11-2014, 10:41 AM   #55
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The ETA engine was one of most de-tuned and low stress NA engines that BMW made. It was found in the 325e from '82-'86, and in the 528e from '82-'88. It was purposely built as an 'efficiency' engine, a low revving, low horsepower motor that had nice torque. I think my 325e red-lined at 5000 rpm.

Many "e" cars have survived 500,000+ miles on original engine.

Here's a description of the 528e motor:
"528e: Sold from 1982 to 1988. Equipped with a 2.7L "High Efficiency" M20 6-Cylinder engine that produced 121 hp (90 kW) but 171 lb·ft (232 N·m) of torque. The engine uses the small port "200" casting cylinder head from the 2.0 L M20 with a special low duration cam to improve low rpm power and maximize efficiency. This engine is known as the "ETA" engine. For the 1988 model year, the engine was revised to produce 127 hp (95 kW), by using the cylinder head casting from the "i" motor installed on the "e" engine block with special pistons. The revised ETA engine is now known as the "super eta"."
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      03-11-2014, 07:22 PM   #56
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Question

Reliable in what way? Reliable with no problems for the first 50k? Reliable with the fewest issues in 100k? Reliable with the best chance of going 250k?

Reliable in number of issues that require service? Reliable in $ cost of fixing those issues?

IIRC the E9x M3 was one of the most reliable BMWs in 2011 or thereabouts. Does that mean it will be the most reliable BMW in 2021? Can you compare a 2-3yo M3 with an 11yo M5?

The question itself raises only more questions.
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      03-13-2014, 08:26 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SickFinga View Post
e36 m3

/thread
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!
how did it take to post #7 for this?
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