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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Just finished my first DIY..



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      03-27-2014, 02:32 PM   #1
bender rodriguez
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Just finished my first DIY..

Feels good man.. Rented a lift for 60 bucks to replace my control arms. Would have cost close to 400 otherwise and I got to upgrade to Meyle HD.

Things I learned...

Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
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      03-27-2014, 03:14 PM   #2
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why the devil?
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      03-27-2014, 03:16 PM   #3
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Nice work. Did it go smoothly? (besides whatever issue you ran into with the impact wrench)
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      03-27-2014, 03:46 PM   #4
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Impact for removal of certain nuts and bolts (for me, those are the ones that don't thread into something that would then need to be drilled and tapped if broken). Hand wrenches for assembly. What did you do to hate the impact?
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      03-27-2014, 03:47 PM   #5
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Awesome, post some pics if you get a chance!
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      03-27-2014, 03:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender rodriguez View Post
Feels good man.. Rented a lift for 60 bucks to replace my control arms. Would have cost close to 400 otherwise and I got to upgrade to Meyle HD.

Things I learned...

Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
where did you rent a lift from?
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      03-27-2014, 03:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender rodriguez View Post
Feels good man.. Rented a lift for 60 bucks to replace my control arms. Would have cost close to 400 otherwise and I got to upgrade to Meyle HD.

Things I learned...

Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
It is the devil. They should be banned for inexperience people!!!
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      03-27-2014, 03:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender rodriguez View Post
Feels good man.. Rented a lift for 60 bucks to replace my control arms. Would have cost close to 400 otherwise and I got to upgrade to Meyle HD.

Things I learned...

Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
Impact wrench is the devil
My son learned the hard way the impact wrench is not your friend if you do not know what you are doing, he stripped most of his wheel studs since he thought can could use the impact to start the lug in the stud.

Impact are only use to get things off, and in very limited case do the final tightening of bolts.

I personally been using impacts for a very long time and never had an issue with them, but learned to use it correctly early on.
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      03-27-2014, 04:06 PM   #9
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Your shut your mouth about impact wrenches!
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      03-27-2014, 04:21 PM   #10
bender rodriguez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maestro View Post
My son learned the hard way the impact wrench is not your friend if you do not know what you are doing, he stripped most of his wheel studs since he thought can could use the impact to start the lug in the stud.

Impact are only use to get things off, and in very limited case do the final tightening of bolts.

I personally been using impacts for a very long time and never had an issue with them, but learned to use it correctly early on.
I used it with the wheel lock and I didn't quite have it in all the way... Good bye wheel lock :C

I still used the impact wrench with everything else and didn't strip anything. It was a life saver in taking off the control arm bolts.

Other problems I had were the wheels were seized to the hub. Had to spray lug holes with pb blaster and let it sit 5 mins.Then keep kicking the wheel until it came off.

Another problem I had was when putting the locking nut on it spun the control arm boot. Almost tore it but it didn't rip.. It doesn't looks crisp like the other side anymore but I assume it is still good since their are no holes.

The job was quoted at 3 hours and it took me 3 hours but if I had to do it again prob could do it under 2.

After doing everything the wheel vibrates at 60+ speeds just a little bit. Can hardly notice it so I am getting an alignment at firestone hope it fixes that problem. Could be the brakes too.. I only have 2k left on the brakes according to computer and I hear them squeak sometimes too. Rotors and pads original from 09 85k miles.

Besides that it drives nice and straight feels good. I would assume if I did anything wrong the car would drive like crap.
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      03-27-2014, 04:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender rodriguez View Post
I used it with the wheel lock and I didn't quite have it in all the way... Good bye wheel lock :C

I still used the impact wrench with everything else and didn't strip anything. It was a life saver in taking off the control arm bolts.

Other problems I had were the wheels were seized to the hub. Had to spray lug holes with pb blaster and let it sit 5 mins.Then keep kicking the wheel until it came off.

Another problem I had was when putting the locking nut on it spun the control arm boot. Almost tore it but it didn't rip.. It doesn't looks crisp like the other side anymore but I assume it is still good since their are no holes.
First, congrats on trying to tackle this yourself.

Which control arms did you replace? If it's the upper control arm (the one with the weird bends/twists) you're supposed to insert a Torx bit into the bottom of the balljoint screw to keep it from spinning while you loosen/tighten the lock nut. Also, did you compress the suspension before tightening the nut on the bolt that goes through the bushing? If not, drive your car up on ramps or a curb, get under it and loosen and retighten the nut to specs. Do that before you get your alignment if possible.

There's a great BavAuto DIY video on YouTube and the BavAuto site if you haven't seen it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_An0EkkwI6U#t=953
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      03-27-2014, 05:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJtoad View Post
First, congrats on trying to tackle this yourself.

Which control arms did you replace? If it's the upper control arm (the one with the weird bends/twists) you're supposed to insert a Torx bit into the bottom of the balljoint screw to keep it from spinning while you loosen/tighten the lock nut. Also, did you compress the suspension before tightening the nut on the bolt that goes through the bushing? If not, drive your car up on ramps or a curb, get under it and loosen and retighten the nut to specs. Do that before you get your alignment if possible.

There's a great BavAuto DIY video on YouTube and the BavAuto site if you haven't seen it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_An0EkkwI6U#t=953
Yeah I replaced the upper control arm. I did use a jack to load the suspension not sure if I jacked up the hub enough tho. I didn't use a torque wrench at all. The DIY I read didn't mention any specs and I asked the mechanic on duty and he said just tighten it down good.

I just had the alignment everything seems fine.. I am going to take it on the interstate tonight and see if it is going straight.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm
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      03-27-2014, 07:08 PM   #13
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Are you going to do the brakes DIY as well? You can save some big bucks on that job. If you want OEM, look under "maintenance brake kits" for your model on the bottom of the home page on getbmwparts.com. They package pads, rotors, wear sensor, and grease for a very good price. The usually have a free shipping offer too.
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      03-27-2014, 07:34 PM   #14
bender rodriguez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhawk36 View Post
Are you going to do the brakes DIY as well? You can save some big bucks on that job. If you want OEM, look under "maintenance brake kits" for your model on the bottom of the home page on getbmwparts.com. They package pads, rotors, wear sensor, and grease for a very good price. The usually have a free shipping offer too.
Yeah def going to do the brakes.. Already bought hawk pads now I just need cheap rotors. You can reuse the sensors as long as they have not tripped right?
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      03-27-2014, 08:28 PM   #15
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Don't cheap out on the rotors. The cheap ones will warp. You can get some decent ones from Pelican or BAVAUTO for a good price.
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      03-27-2014, 08:38 PM   #16
bender rodriguez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hockeyplayer View Post
Don't cheap out on the rotors. The cheap ones will warp. You can get some decent ones from Pelican or BAVAUTO for a good price.
Thanks I got my control arms from there cheap. Looks like they have a special on these and they are only 4 dollars more than the Chinese ones I were going to buy

315 521 0003/PD

Brake Rotor - Coated - Front - Meyle - Sold Individually 44 dollars

Last edited by bender rodriguez; 03-27-2014 at 09:35 PM..
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      03-27-2014, 09:04 PM   #17
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If you haven't done brakes before, you might want to read up on getting the rotor set screw removed. If there is any corrosion on there they can seize up pretty easily and the allen key hole can strip out...total PITA.

Also you might want to have a 3 arm puller handy in case the rotors are hard to get off.

Otherwise its a pretty easy job.
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      03-27-2014, 09:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hockeyplayer View Post
If you haven't done brakes before, you might want to read up on getting the rotor set screw removed. If there is any corrosion on there they can seize up pretty easily and the allen key hole can strip out...total PITA.

Also you might want to have a 3 arm puller handy in case the rotors are hard to get off.

Otherwise its a pretty easy job.
The caliper bolts were a bitch to get off especially with the 7mm HEX i kept breaking the bits. But I learned that you put a allen key in it and use a mallet to hammer it loose!!
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      03-27-2014, 09:32 PM   #19
bender rodriguez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hockeyplayer View Post
If you haven't done brakes before, you might want to read up on getting the rotor set screw removed. If there is any corrosion on there they can seize up pretty easily and the allen key hole can strip out...total PITA.

Also you might want to have a 3 arm puller handy in case the rotors are hard to get off.

Otherwise its a pretty easy job.
Really good to know.. Now since I am changing the rotors and pads can I use pb blaster on the rotor screw set or will I end up with oil somewhere I dont want it.
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      03-28-2014, 08:17 AM   #20
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Man I wish there were places here in the south where you can rent lifts!
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      03-28-2014, 09:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender rodriguez View Post
Yeah def going to do the brakes.. Already bought hawk pads now I just need cheap rotors. You can reuse the sensors as long as they have not tripped right?
Hawk Pads come with new sensors, just fyi. And brake quiet.

I put on R1 slotted rotors with hawk pads a few weeks ago. Awesome.
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      03-28-2014, 09:38 AM   #22
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Congratulations...feels great to do things yourself!

I love impacts...have 3/8 and 1/2 air and 1/4 and 1/2 electric. I use the 1/4 Dewalt electric 20V all the time. Has 3 torque settings / speeds and is very handy especially with the 3 LED lights in the face that come on when you barely pull the trigger and stay on for 10 seconds. Those new Li-Ion batteries last forever too!

I never could stand air ratchets...I have a 1/4 and 3/8 but never use them. My dad is a retired Ford mechanic and uses air ratchets all the time. Yuck...
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