[AWest1991]

I'm aaron I'm new to the forum. I'm 23 I live in phoenix, az and I've owned my 06 325i for about a year now. Ive done quite a bit of tasteful mods/upgrades, all done by me, myself, and I in my garage. I've admitted defeat and i need some help, please don't be negative. I just want my car back, you guys know how it is :/

Well here we go.. it all was about 3 very long months ago, i ended up getting a little high-centered leaving a parking lot (car sits low on coils). i didn't get stuck but it scraped good enough to push the gas tank up against the metal plate under the back seat and crack the top of the dry-rotted fuel level sender causing a gas leak.
I parked it and this girl who crushes on me let me borrow her e60 til i could fix it and that ended up giving me the idea to do the 3 stage intake manifold & ecu tune i had been wanting while I had an extra car to use as a DD. So I got all the parts (fuel pump & level sender as a complete assembly, 3 stage intake manifold kit from ECS tuning, and a Simon handheld tool from AA so I can tune my edu myself, a new battery, and I also got new spark plugs).

I started by unplugging the battery, used my Bentley manual to do the manifold swap, everything was good I am 99% sure everything is good to go with that, next I did the plugs, then I put in my new battery and everything after this point is where I think the issue is. Ok so (PLEASE NOTE because this May or may not make a difference) *I had a bms pbx installed while I used my simon tool to read my ecu file*. I didn't think to remove the pbx until after it was too late, I already had sent that file to AA and was waiting for my custom tune to be emailed back to me. I made sure AA knew that I had just done the 3 stage manifold upgrade which added the disa valves and I wanted to make sure they included that in the custom tune. After I got the tune I *removed the bms pbx*, plugged in my simon tool and wrote the custom AA tune to my ecu and yes I followed the instructions perfect, it confirmed that it was a success. Once that was done I replaced my entire fuel pump and fuel lever sender with a brand new oem assembly. Followed Bentley manual and I am also about 99% sure this was all installed properly as well.
Then time came to start the car, I triple checked everything and was confident everything was correct, i gave her a push start and all it did was crank and crank and crank but never started. I sprayed some starting fluid into the throttle body making sure not to get it on the MAF sensor and it started instantly but of course died out as soon as the starting fluid was burnt through. I checked the schraeder valve on the fuel rail and it had pressure, removed a coil and it has spark, I made sure the ecu harness was seated fully, made sure the ecu pins I removed were in there perfectly again from when i removed the pbx, i checked everything to my
Knowledge. Still just cranks and cranks. The first time it didn't start I plugged my dtc scanner in and it threw a few codes, some old I'm guessing (photos below). I cleared all of those and re-installed my pbx thinking that AA mightve made that custom tune with the pbx included, and removing it might make the ecu think something was missing? i was out of any other ideas so i tried it and it still just cranks and cranks. I used my Dtc scanner again after that and all I got was a "fuel pump current too low" code. No more codes but that one. I will attach some data steam screenshot and all the codes I got so you guys can see what's going on .

photos I've attached:


first 2 pics were from AFTER i cleared the first set of codes and re-installed the pbx annd they show Live fuel pump data which has lower than specified readings at some points while the car is cranking and cranking

the next 5 pics are all from the first batch of codes from when i first tried to start the car

the last pic is the "6294 current too low" for the fuel pump control module that i got after i cleared the first codes and re-installed the pbx

PLEASE HELP

[sal_park]

I think your fuel pump is cavetating. You need to bleed the fuel system. To prove or disprove this you need to crack open the fuel rail and see if there is air or fuel in there. Do this with the pump primed and obviously BE CAREFUL as you'll probably get neat petrol spraying out. I have the joint covered in a rag and do this in a well ventlated area.

Obviously what I'm saying IS dangerous and may not actually be your problem, but it's my best guess based on other cars I've worked on.


good luck.

[sal_park]

this is what I'm talking about above:
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation

[AWest1991]

thanks man, i'll def give it a shot. I'm open for any ideas because I'm stumped. I'm about to just take it to a local indy because I've added all these ponies and haven't even gotten to take it for a spin. Ive been dying to test it out for almost 3 months now lol

[thomas88162]

Tried listening to the injectors? The pump appears to be doing it's job. Fuel, spark, and air are required to run, and you're missing one (sounds like fuel) in the combustion chamber.

[AWest1991]

Exactly, but no i have not listened to them. What do i gotta do to hear them?

More info: i went out in the garage this morning and took the valve cap off of the fuel rail, got some rags to cover any overspray and i pressed in the valve core to see if there was actually fuel pressure or if what i was seeing before was just built up pressure and it ended up spitting fuel out for a few seconds and quickly died down to nothing, no air hissing out, no fuel, nothing. i tried cranking it a few times and trying again. Still nothing.

Another thing, is there anything needed after installing the new fuel pump and level sender? like coding or priming? i know it was said earlier in the post about priming the pump and im also curious if maybe the fuel pump control module or something in that nature needs coded? like maybe it isn't working right with the new pump installed? i know a lot of these modules are based off of remembering things and adapting to them as needed