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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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E90 N54 Starter Replacement
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09-26-2020, 07:24 PM | #23 |
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First off, thanks! This is a very helpful write-up, my started died suddenly (seems to be the way it goes), and blocked my other car in my driveway. After I figured out how to roll it to the street with no power, I started thinking about whether I was going to need a flatbed.
Luckily I found your post and a couple of videos, and it's not too much more involved than changing the alternator which I did already. I have a couple of notes though for anyone else - it's much easier to get the little J-box off, and wiggle out the intake manifold if you remove the throttle body FIRST. Leave the intake bolted up, remove the four bolts holding the throttle to the intake, disconnect the hose and connector, and get that out of the way. Then it's easy to grab the j-box and wiggle it off off even if it's clipped in. Another thing, those little spring clips are actually meant to be pushed in, not pulled out. You just grab it and press the clip towards the connector, the connector will just slide off. No need to fling them across the shop/street! |
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09-27-2020, 05:07 AM | #24 | |
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10-05-2020, 11:09 PM | #25 | |
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No way I could get a torque wrench in there, so I hope it's good enough. |
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02-18-2022, 10:56 AM | #27 |
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You can use a 12 point 12mm combination wrench or combination ratchet wrench 12mm. All you need to do is break it and hand thread it out. this is for back bolt. for front bolt you can use a 12mm 12 point socket with long extension, same, break it and hand screw it out. Simple
Last edited by Caetyl; 02-18-2022 at 11:01 AM.. Reason: addition to message |
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07-02-2022, 08:36 AM | #28 | |
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10-27-2022, 04:30 PM | #29 |
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This thread has not received the appreciation is deserves. I'm embarrassed to admit that I took bad advice from youtube and first attempted to use a 10mm ratchet wrench on that back bolt. DO NOT DO THIS, use the proper tools mentioned here.
The stock bolt size is E12 and if you try to use a different wrench, the soft metal of the bolt will deform enough so that you can no longer get enough grip with an E12 wrench. In this situation and [B]ONLY in this situation[B] should you then attempt to remove it with a 12 point 3/8" wrench. Once again, using a 3/8" 12 point wrench on the rear E12 should ONLY be a last resort when you are left with no other options than to otherwise cut it. This is what worked when I was in despair after the 10mm messed up the head on the E12 bolt. Once I removed it, the bolts were replaced with genuine bolts from a local BMW dealership. The new bolts are E14. The info posted by the OP is the way to do this job, and no other method should be used. I used the proper tools to tighten the new bolts. |
12-14-2022, 07:54 PM | #30 | |
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https://www.amazon.com/CASOMAN-Femal...s%2C139&sr=8-5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBF5LQ...roduct_details Even though it was an exact fit the head of that rear long bolt still stripped slightly. I'm guessing due to age and living in the rust belt. I stopped immediately. Did some more research on YouTube and was about to pull out the cutting/drilling tools. Tried with this 3/8th 12 point ratchet box end as a last resort before hacking it up: https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piec...set-42304.html And it worked! Obviously have the wrench pointed towards you and not towards the firewall for maximum grip. Now I think I just need to buy the correct bolt as FCPEuro sent me sedan bolts that are E14: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...392577#fitment |
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