[2fast4]

Hi guys,
Been having so much fun emptying gas tank. I just installed OFTablet few days ago. But last 2 days ago, I'm stuck on stock looking turbo boost level. And the boost is slow to build. It maxes out on ~8psi actual, and getting there is not fast enough. Target is 16-17psi. I hooked up INPA laptop and 2AAF(fuel pump plausibility) and 30FF(under boost). I had recently replaced HPFP recently.
It used to be that Actual boost was more livelier than Target boost before this gremlin took over.

No SES or rough vibrating engine or warning lights though. It drives a little slower than stock now. I switched to different OTS maps but to no avail. I reset and cleared adaptation values too, and no help.

Did I blew open a vacuum hose? I checked them on the solenoids general area. Put my finger on the top hoses and the canisters for vacuum and they suck in like it should. I can also see 2nd wastegate arm moving when I plug the both hose/canister holes. Can't see the 1st w/g moving since it's behind all the stuff.

The previously mentioned 2 errors appear 1-2 frequency during like 1 hour of street driving. So not too often.

I want to trace the vacuum hoses, esp, the one that disappears back side of the engine.

Any help is appreciated. I gooooot to get it back online...

[2fast4]

Bump

[Digitalism]

I think I am having gone the same problem.
I will upload a data log when I get a chance. But I think I am having the same symptoms, actual boost is at stock levels and target boost is at 18psi.

[Tiago@VRSF]

Contact Shiv, he's going to be your best bet for a speedy resolution.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

If you have 30FF you have a boost leak somewhere so it's not the tune. Since the tune target a higher PSI that it can't meet it triggers the 30FF.

The 30FF and boost leak threads have been beaten to death. You need to source the leak as there are many areas it can be.

A 30FF code and check engine light will appear when you underboost for over 3 seconds consistently.

[AlpineSwift]

For tech support from Vishnu, send Shiv an email or call the shop directly. He rarely answers PM's or thread's he's CC'd to.

[2fast4]

Weekends are where we thrive. If you have problems, try having during week days. I've already sent email and waiting since yesterday.

[2fast4]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

If you have 30FF you have a boost leak somewhere so it's not the tune. Since the tune target a higher PSI that it can't meet it triggers the 30FF.

The 30FF and boost leak threads have been beaten to death. You need to source the leak as there are many areas it can be.

A 30FF code and check engine light will appear when you underboost for over 3 seconds consistently.

I know for fact that it ran great with the 30FF code. I ran great for about 3 days. Than it lost all power up 3 days ago.
It's when I got the 2AAF fuel pump plausibility, is when I noticed it dropped and never recovered even though I changed to different maps.

Sure, is hooking up a air compressor and plastic adapter to do a leak test, easy said than done? So far, I checked passenger side vacuum hoses. They're fine(front side 2 braided hoses going to the canister are disintegrating on the sheath....oh some CRAP quality! Will have to replace them with Mitsubishi's). Broke the vacuum canister nipple on the underside. That's how I checked vacuum leaks

[2fast4]

While on this broken nipple on the vacuum canister, is it alright to "delete" the canister and bypass it? Some people has done it says no issues. What is the purpose of the canister? Other cars don't have this frail plastic piece.

[Ingeniator]

Originally Posted by 2fast4

While on this broken nipple on the vacuum canister, is it alright to "delete" the canister and bypass it? Some people has done it says no issues. What is the purpose of the canister? Other cars don't have this frail plastic piece.

It's used to maintain consistent vacuum and prevent surges.

[2fast4]

Just a side question. I'm trying to take off the vacuum hose which goes to w/g and solenoid. They are on there real tight! I managed to snap one vacuum T-fitting from pulling on the hose real hard. That's how I know it's plastic T. Are there any easier way? WD40?

[2fast4]

Originally Posted by 2fast4

Just a side question. I'm trying to take off the vacuum hose which goes to w/g and solenoid. They are on there real tight! I managed to snap one vacuum T-fitting from pulling on the hose real hard. That's how I know it's plastic T. Are there any easier way? WD40?

After spending some time one those, it is possible to avoid breaking the vacuum T-fittings. You'll have to sacrifice vacuum hoses a bit. Basically, you can "cut" the hose at the fitting with knife. Peel it off. Take hose off fitting. Cut extra hose off so you can add extra hose + straight vacuum fitting.

This means you'll need to have extra vacuum hose + straight fitting handy before you tackle the job. I hear the size is 5/32" vacuum hose and fitting.
I just had some extra laying around so was lucky. It works BUT it's not very clean looking now with all the mismatch hoses and straight fittings
now taking up the single hose space.

[2fast4]

OK. Thanks for your patients.
After replacing several vacuum lines, the IC hose at the passenger side was popped off. So that was the culprit. I pushed it back in and put the metal clip.

Test drove with the Stage1 tune. It seemed that the power is back and I'm elated
Alas, drove around town about 40 miles. I saw the 'actual' boost is lower by 5psi than the 'target'. Still much better than hose popped off.
Came home and got the INPA connected. It still gets 30ff code, 2 times.

So, so far, I've tested vacuum status with SunPro hand-pump vac gauge of the following - waste gates, vacuum lines, diverter valves. They are all good.

I'm trying to test the solenoids now. Any good ways to test its functionality???

[2fast4]

Checked vacuum -
18" to solenoids(hoses on top of canister going to solenoid),
26" to canister. Normal?

[2fast4]

Checked WG vacuum test with SunPro hand-held vacuum pump -
Both WGs closed at 6" HG. It holds 15" or more for long time. No binding as far as I can tell. Repeatable every time. And 6-pack of beer helps a lot...

[2fast4]

After fixing the IC coupler issue, I get the 30FF still.
Now it seems that when engine is hot, 'actual' boost is very lazy.
When it's cold, actual jumps up like normal and all the power is there(I don't hit it often due to cold engine).

After like 20 min later the throttle response is down. And it goes further down the longer I drove.

So actual is lively and responsive as target when cold. But after warmed up, it becomes very laggy.

Take a look at the graph. Throttle, actual, target.

[2fast4]

Good day,
I vacuum-tested the 2 hoses on top of vacuum canisters that goes to solenoid labled "VAC" nipple.
For this purpose of test, I used SunPro hand-held vacuum pump.

- The front solenoid loses 20" HG in 30 seconds flat!
- The rear solenoid loses 5" HG in 2 minutes.

I also used a different test - 9V battery and alligator clips....
Connect to solenoid terminal. Touch one of the battery terminal and see if it makes "clicking" sound.

- Front solenoid did not make noise, if any, very faint. I could feel the dull vibration on my fingers that holding the wires close to the terminal. As if the plunger is trying to work.
- Rear solenoid made clicking noise every time I touch the battery terminal. And no dull vibration feeling on fingers.

Does this explain why "actual" boost is much much laggy than the "target"? Esp when it's hot temp?

Please confirm for me.

Anyone got a good solenoid for good price?

PS: I was wondering how the solenoids create 18" of vacuum? Solenoids are basically on/off valve, and not a motor function that spins.