[Grecobeemer]

So I just watched a thorough diy on how to replace, and is a bit more complicated than I anticipated. Mostly just the amount of items to remove and potential for the gasket to "roll" while replacing.

I am mechanically inclined and grew up working on cars (family business auto repair shop/machine shop); but just on the fence whether to diy or take to a shop.

My questions are:
1. Is it better just to have a qualified shop do it?
2. Any best practices/insights?
3. Anything else that should be replaced as preemptive, due to the involvement to R&R the vcg?

Thanks

[TGTIW]

My inclination is to always DIY it if you can. Given the amount of items that need to be moved/removed for the Valve Cover gasket, I would never trust a shop to put in the amount of care and attention needed while doing it. In reality, it's not too difficult. There is a How-To in the DIY forum that really does a great job of covering everything needed.

Loosening the cowl helps give you the room to lift the back of the valve cover out.
I replaced my eccentric shaft sensor and gasket when I did mine.
The Valvetronic gasket as well.
I would suggest picking up a PCV hose as well, they tend to break when disconnecting them.
A little dab of rtv helps hold the gasket in place when placing the Valve cover back on.

[sabino56]

It’s a bit of a pain to get the pcv hose off and to some of the rear bolts but overall not that bad of a job. Spending time getting stuff out of the way, getting harness moved to make space is worth it. As TGTIW said, for this kind of thing I don’t like a shop to do it as they probably aren’t as careful with the pita stuff.

I’d have/replace that pcv hose. There is also a pcv recall, I think, to put a fuse in-line to prevent it burning. I would have just unplugged the pcv heater if I had known when I was in there as I live where it never freezes. You might check into whatever that recall does.
I read it’s recommended to check or replace the eccentric shaft sensor if you can see any oil in the connector.

EDIT - Oops - You don't get to the PCV itself with doing the valve cover, just the breather hose. I got confused on wishing I had unplugged the PCV when I did replaced the starter, not the valve cover work.

[Grecobeemer]

Thanks TGTIW and sabino56

I agree, and I found ‘euro’ shops in Charlotte to be mediocre and overpriced. RTV is what I was thinking to use, and read about the eccentric shaft sensor if oil is seen. Figured it might be worthwhile to change, but I believe I read it needed to get coded when replaced?

I’m figuring 1-2 hours, is that accurate?

This is the DIY I watched

[TGTIW]

The eccentric shaft sensor doesn't need any coding, the Valvetronic motor will need to relearn it's stops when it's reinstalled, but that's a simple process of keying on the car without starting and you'll hear it click through it's limits. 1-2 hrs is ambitious, for the first time.

[TGTIW]

Ah, totally forgot. What year is your N52? Check to see if the Vanos bolt recall applies to you before doing any of this.

[Greazywxrld]

Always better to diy whenever you can, honestly. Some of the bolts are a pain in the neck but overall not too bad and it will save you some much pain later on. But as far as programming and other finicky BMW stuff that’s when I would take it to a shop.

[Grecobeemer]

Originally Posted by TGTIW

Ah, totally forgot. What year is your N52? Check to see if the Vanos bolt recall applies to you before doing any of this.

8/2006 I believe

[TGTIW]

Ah, I don't the the recall covers you then. Still a good idea to check that yours are tight and replace them with the updated versions if necessary.