[lomon98]

Hi all,

Yesterday I purchased the flasher license n55e for my 2012 e92 335i. I flashed the stage 0 map with burble settings and linear throttle mapping as those are the only features I want for now.

After successfully flashing the car and following the exact procedure I started it up and noticed the idle was extremely rough, almost like it would be working on 3 cylinders instead of 6 (maybe misfiring?). I then flashed everything back to stock and a similar (less rough) idle was still there so I took the car for a 5’ drive. The car feels normal now in its completely stock form but I wanted to check if such rough idle after the stock map flash is normal. Today I also drove the car to work and no codes came up so the car behaves smoothly.

The car was driving perfectly up until now ( used to have the typical cold engine slightly rough idle but got fixed after I updated my DME a month ago).

So basically I am wondering if this is normal behavior and I should have just gone for a drive right after flashing my car as I did when resetting back to stock.

Cheers!

[SlowE92]

Originally Posted by lomon98

Hi all,

Yesterday I purchased the flasher license n55e for my 2012 e92 335i. I flashed the stage 0 map with burble settings and linear throttle mapping as those are the only features I want for now.

After successfully flashing the car and following the exact procedure I started it up and noticed the idle was extremely rough, almost like it would be working on 3 cylinders instead of 6 (maybe misfiring?). I then flashed everything back to stock and a similar (less rough) idle was still there so I took the car for a 5’ drive. The car feels normal now in its completely stock form but I wanted to check if such rough idle after the stock map flash is normal. Today I also drove the car to work and no codes came up so the car behaves smoothly.

The car was driving perfectly up until now ( used to have the typical cold engine slightly rough idle but got fixed after I updated my DME a month ago).

So basically I am wondering if this is normal behavior and I should have just gone for a drive right after flashing my car as I did when resetting back to stock.

Cheers!

Did you set the RPM on the burbble setting? If it's at 0 and switched on it could be causing the rough idle.

[lomon98]

Originally Posted by MakoB96

Did you set the RPM on the burbble setting? If it's at 0 and switched on it could be causing the rough idle.

Hi! So I am quite sure I set the min rpm to 1800… idk might give it another try today and actually take it for a drive right away after flashing. The reason I didn't do it the other day was that the car felt scary at idle…

[SlowE92]

Originally Posted by lomon98

Hi! So I am quite sure I set the min rpm to 1800… idk might give it another try today and actually take it for a drive right away after flashing. The reason I didn't do it the other day was that the car felt scary at idle…

You can also go into the MHD settings and reset the adaptations for the car including the idle and see if that fixes it. Just make sure after resetting the idle to turn the car off, then back on and wait at least 30 seconds before cranking it.

[lomon98]

Originally Posted by MakoB96

You can also go into the MHD settings and reset the adaptations for the car including the idle and see if that fixes it. Just make sure after resetting the idle to turn the car off, then back on and wait at least 30 seconds before cranking it.

I decided to give it a go a flashed it back with the stage 0 map. OEM burbles on with min rpm at 1800 and max at 5000.

I couldn’t notice them (my car is completely stock) so I flashed it back again with the medium aggressiveness for burbles. This time they are truly loud but mostly notice them when I put the car in manual mode (DCT).

In summary I just had to go for a drive straight afterwards. Car feels okay but maybe I am going to try the soft burbles tomorrow, medium feels like it is gonna make the car unreliable for DD ( turbo, oil consumption, O2 sensor, etc). BTW I am guessing soft burbles are louder than OEM burbles?

[SlowE92]

Originally Posted by lomon98

I decided to give it a go a flashed it back with the stage 0 map. OEM burbles on with min rpm at 1800 and max at 5000.

I couldn’t notice them (my car is completely stock) so I flashed it back again with the medium aggressiveness for burbles. This time they are truly loud but mostly notice them when I put the car in manual mode (DCT).

In summary I just had to go for a drive straight afterwards. Car feels okay but maybe I am going to try the soft burbles tomorrow, medium feels like it is gonna make the car unreliable for DD ( turbo, oil consumption, O2 sensor, etc). BTW I am guessing soft burbles are louder than OEM burbles?

In all seriousness it's not a good idea to run the burbbles on the stock downpipes, you risk damaging them. On my 335i with catless setup, the lowest setting on the burbbles is quite loud. I would also suggest setting the minimum to around 3k rpm..

[lomon98]

Originally Posted by MakoB96

In all seriousness it's not a good idea to run the burbbles on the stock downpipes, you risk damaging them. On my 335i with catless setup, the lowest setting on the burbbles is quite loud. I would also suggest setting the minimum to around 3k rpm..

Yeah that makes sense thanks! So probably stock or soft burbles and min rpm 3000. If the DPs break I was also thinking of getting the vrsf catless DPs. But I don’t know if I should do that or the PE mod ( both things are like 300 bucks but don’t wanna get both now). I just want it louder but not ricey, smth tells me that maybe the PE mod is a better option in that sense.

Cheers!

[SlowE92]

Originally Posted by lomon98

Yeah that makes sense thanks! So probably stock or soft burbles and min rpm 3000. If the DPs break I was also thinking of getting the vrsf catless DPs. But I don’t know if I should do that or the PE mod ( both things are like 300 bucks but don’t wanna get both now). I just want it louder but not ricey, smth tells me that maybe the PE mod is a better option in that sense.

Cheers!

I would run the stage 1 maps, youll feel the difference. Go Catless and run stage 2.. You'll get the power bug eventually.

[lomon98]

Originally Posted by MakoB96

I would run the stage 1 maps, youll feel the difference. Go Catless and run stage 2.. You'll get the power bug eventually.

Yeah that is a good idea as well, car is starting to feel slow, specially torquewise at low rpms… only thing is I would to need to buy a proper charge pipe as I’ve read the OEM one doesn’t last long at stage 1. Also maybe ignition coils and spark plugs so in total another 400-500 bucks haha

[SlowE92]

Originally Posted by lomon98

Yeah that is a good idea as well, car is starting to feel slow, specially torquewise at low rpms… only thing is I would to need to buy a proper charge pipe as I’ve read the OEM one doesn’t last long at stage 1. Also maybe ignition coils and spark plugs so in total another 400-500 bucks haha

I wouldn't worry about the chargepipe running stage 1. There are lots of people on this forum running stage 1 on a completely stock car. Stage 1 was created for that purpose.

[lomon98]

Originally Posted by SlowE92

I wouldn't worry about the chargepipe running stage 1. There are lots of people on this forum running stage 1 on a completely stock car. Stage 1 was created for that purpose.

Mmm okay that is interesting thanks again! Also another thing I’ve noticed so far is that my cold start is a lot quieter despite not having ticked the cold start noise reduction box. Could it be that the DME is still learning after 2 days? Seems odd, I am starting to think the car had a tune (it is second hand), although when I flashed it back to stock a few days ago the car felt quieter without the tune.

[SlowE92]

Originally Posted by lomon98

Mmm okay that is interesting thanks again! Also another thing I’ve noticed so far is that my cold start is a lot quieter despite not having ticked the cold start noise reduction box. Could it be that the DME is still learning after 2 days? Seems odd, I am starting to think the car had a tune (it is second hand), although when I flashed it back to stock a few days ago the car felt quieter without the tune.

What are the codes for your car by the way? I forgot to ask and I just jumped right into troubleshooting.

[SlowE92]

Originally Posted by lomon98

Mmm okay that is interesting thanks again! Also another thing I’ve noticed so far is that my cold start is a lot quieter despite not having ticked the cold start noise reduction box. Could it be that the DME is still learning after 2 days? Seems odd, I am starting to think the car had a tune (it is second hand), although when I flashed it back to stock a few days ago the car felt quieter without the tune.

If you bought the car second hand I would check the DME and see if you have a piggyback attached lol. I can't think of a reason flashing the stock map would cause a rough idle.

[lomon98]

Originally Posted by SlowE92

What are the codes for your car by the way? I forgot to ask and I just jumped right into troubleshooting.

9Е60B for the DME if you are referring to that. Other than that I have read the dme codes these past few days after driving the car with the “tune” and I have no active codes…

[lomon98]

Originally Posted by SlowE92

If you bought the car second hand I would check the DME and see if you have a piggyback attached lol. I can't think of a reason flashing the stock map would cause a rough idle.

Have never checked but I doubt that, previous owner was an old man who liked his car stock as I’ve been told… will check tomorrow just in case

[Hauteknits]

Might be worth it to reset adaptations. I had an issue with the chargepipe coming loose and the car would keep stalling even after the reinstall. Reseting lambda sensors adaptations was the fix. I know in MHD there's a idle adaptation

[lomon98]

Originally Posted by Hauteknits

Might be worth it to reset adaptations. I had an issue with the chargepipe coming loose and the car would keep stalling even after the reinstall. Reseting lambda sensors adaptations was the fix. I know in MHD there's a idle adaptation

Yeah I tried that already thanks! But the car now runs fine, no codes no nothing. Only thing is that it feels quieter than before somehow haha, so apart from going stage 1 I am trying to decide what to do to make it louder (PE mod vs catless DP)!

[SlowE92]

Originally Posted by lomon98

Yeah I tried that already thanks! But the car now runs fine, no codes no nothing. Only thing is that it feels quieter than before somehow haha, so apart from going stage 1 I am trying to decide what to do to make it louder (PE mod vs catless DP)!

Catless DP will make it much louder, and yield much higher performance results than the PE mod.

[Jpin4]

Every time I reflash my car and start it up, it runs like absolute shit until i drive for like a mile, then it clears up. If your problem persists after driving it for a while then you might have a bigger issue.

[lomon98]

Originally Posted by Jpin4

Every time I reflash my car and start it up, it runs like absolute shit until i drive for like a mile, then it clears up. If your problem persists after driving it for a while then you might have a bigger issue.

Hi again so my problem with stage 0 went away after driving the car right after the start up otherwise the engine would just die after insane rough idle.

BUT, now I installed vrsf catless dp and mhd stage 1 and the issue has officially returned only now it happens after every cold start and not only the first one after the flash as it happened with stage 0. It goes away once I start driving straight away but it doesn’t feel right, could it be the cold start noise reduction option being now enabled? Or vanos solenoids being dirty or close to needing replacing?

Cheers!