[clockworkishere]

I drive a 2011 E92 328i and sometimes after driving my car for a short bit (30 mins ish), the traction control light + yellow brake come on and then after that, my wipers go off and they don't stop no matter what I do. They eventually stop on their own after like a minute or so and then a few minutes later, it'll go off again. When I turn the car off and back on, the traction control + yellow brake are off, but they turn back on quickly. The only time they won't turn on is when I haven't driven my car for a bit. Not throwing any codes either.

Any idea what I could do? Battery was replaced late last year.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by clockworkishere

... 2011 E92 328i and sometimes after driving my car for a short bit (30 mins ish), the traction control light + yellow brake come on and then after that, my wipers go off [self-activate?] and they don't stop no matter what I do. They eventually stop on their own after like a minute or so and then a few minutes later, it'll go off again. When I turn the car off and back on, the traction control + yellow brake are off, but they turn back on quickly. The only time they won't turn on is when I haven't driven my car for a bit. Not throwing any codes either...

The Wiper Motor is connected to, and controlled by, the JBE Module (below Fuse Panel). The Wiper control stalk is part of the Steering Column Switch Center, and communicates with the JBE via the Bus system. Voltage spikes or "Over-voltage" (> 16.0V) output by alternator with motor running can "scramble" bus communications between the Steering Column Switch Center and JBE, causing "Self-activation" of wiper motor. Same for Instrument Cluster (KOMBI) Warning Lights such as DSC, ABS, Brake.

You likely have "Over-voltage" or > 16.0V output from alternator. That can usually be corrected by replacing the Voltage Regulator in rear of Alternator. Current cost of Regulator is $38 at Autohaus:
https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog?v...age=1&sortby=r

If you replaced the entire Alternator, that would be 5 to 10 times that much. BEFORE you Order/Replace ANYTHING, here's HOW to TEST:

1) Using DMM (Digital Multimeter), monitor System Voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals under hood with engine running. Since your problem appears to be intermittent at this time, you will need to "Catch the Over-voltage in the act". That is NOT always easy to do.

2) Use Hidden Menu 9.00 to display System Voltage on your Instrument Cluster, so you can monitor it as you drive, and/or quickly check voltage if Wipers "self-activate" or Warning Lights appear. In some instances, the Hidden Menu 9.00 display goes blank when Over-voltage occurs:
https://www.carsaddiction.com/articl...er-hidden-menu

3) Read Freeze Frame Data related to Fault Codes in DSC Module, or also in KOMBI (Instrument Cluster) Module. I realize you state that you have NO Fault Codes. Generally, any time a Warning Light appears on the Instrument Cluster, a Fault Code related to that light is saved in the relevant "Module" in the vehicle. If your Scan Tool is a "P-code Reader", that ONLY reads P-codes in the DME, and NOT Hexadecimal Fault Codes in the DSC or other Modules.

Freeze Frame Data is a "Snapshot" of system conditions (often including Voltage) at the moment the Fault Code was saved in Fault Memory. That is saved in Module Fault Memory along with the fault code (until cleared by Scan Tool). The fact the warning light goes out does NOT mean the fault code and related FF Data is cleared from fault memory.
Please let us know what you find,
George

[clockworkishere]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

The Wiper Motor is connected to, and controlled by, the JBE Module (below Fuse Panel). The Wiper control stalk is part of the Steering Column Switch Center, and communicates with the JBE via the Bus system. Voltage spikes or "Over-voltage" (> 16.0V) output by alternator with motor running can "scramble" bus communications between the Steering Column Switch Center and JBE, causing "Self-activation" of wiper motor. Same for Instrument Cluster (KOMBI) Warning Lights such as DSC, ABS, Brake.

You likely have "Over-voltage" or > 16.0V output from alternator. That can usually be corrected by replacing the Voltage Regulator in rear of Alternator. Current cost of Regulator is $38 at Autohaus:
https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog?v...age=1&sortby=r

If you replaced the entire Alternator, that would be 5 to 10 times that much. BEFORE you Order/Replace ANYTHING, here's HOW to TEST:

1) Using DMM (Digital Multimeter), monitor System Voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals under hood with engine running. Since your problem appears to be intermittent at this time, you will need to "Catch the Over-voltage in the act". That is NOT always easy to do.

2) Use Hidden Menu 9.00 to display System Voltage on your Instrument Cluster, so you can monitor it as you drive, and/or quickly check voltage if Wipers "self-activate" or Warning Lights appear. In some instances, the Hidden Menu 9.00 display goes blank when Over-voltage occurs:
https://www.carsaddiction.com/articl...er-hidden-menu

3) Read Freeze Frame Data related to Fault Codes in DSC Module, or also in KOMBI (Instrument Cluster) Module. I realize you state that you have NO Fault Codes. Generally, any time a Warning Light appears on the Instrument Cluster, a Fault Code related to that light is saved in the relevant "Module" in the vehicle. If your Scan Tool is a "P-code Reader", that ONLY reads P-codes in the DME, and NOT Hexadecimal Fault Codes in the DSC or other Modules.

Freeze Frame Data is a "Snapshot" of system conditions (often including Voltage) at the moment the Fault Code was saved in Fault Memory. That is saved in Module Fault Memory along with the fault code (until cleared by Scan Tool). The fact the warning light goes out does NOT mean the fault code and related FF Data is cleared from fault memory.
Please let us know what you find,
George

Thank you a ton for the detailed reply! I'll have to check it out!