[F36Vader]

My F36 spun rod bearings are kaput and my mechanic found plent trace amounts of fairy dust in the oil as well…

TLDR:
Another N55 rod bearing case, is there anything else I should do while I’m at it??

*solved*Does the N55 M2 Oil cooler fit on F36 435i?

I already purchased a replacement low mileage EWG N55 and will be getting the swap done over the course of the next 2 weeks..

So while I’m at it ive opted to replace/add the following:
- New rod bearings on replacement motor
- N55 sump buffle
- Fresh gaskets eveything
- New Oil Pan
- New Hoses
- Front & rear diff service
- Belt & Pulley + deflector
- OEM adaptive front struts
- OEM top hats
- OEM front upper control arms

Also ordered the following as a splurge for the “rebuild”:
- Maxton Design new rear Diffuser
- OEM Carbon fiber exhaust tips for MPE
- OEM F36 LCI Blackline Euro-Spec Taillights retro-kit

I think this should spice the backend pretty nicely while keeping it OEM+

My mechanic has asked me to try and source a used Oil Cooler, the one that’s located on the passenger side behind bumper to try and save some costs…

QUESTION

I found a used CSF F87 M2 Race Oil cooler locally but not sure if it will fit on the F36 as a direct replacement as it does on the F87?

I’ve emailed CSF and still waiting on their response.

Hopefully the swap goes well and nothing else needs to be “replaced”

[AmuroRay]

CSF is garbage - please avoid. A DO88 or ER oil cooler is better, and the ER actually fits the F non M cars.

[scotthilly]

Any insight into what happened to cause the bearing? Do you mind sharing miles, mods, and if the ofhg was replaced recently?

I'm so sorry this happened to you man. Hopefully any info you have can help the community find answers to prevent this.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by F36Vader

My F36 spun rod bearings are kaput and my mechanic found plent trace amounts of fairy dust in the oil as well…

TLDR:
Another N55 rod bearing case, is there anything else I should do while I’m at it??

Does the N55 M2 Oil cooler fit on F36 435i?

I already purchased a replacement low mileage EWG N55 and will be getting the swap done over the course of the next 2 weeks..

So while I’m at it ive opted to replace/add the following:
- New rod bearings on replacement motor
- N55 sump buffle
- Fresh gaskets eveything
- New Oil Pan
- New Hoses
- Front & rear diff service
- Belt & Pulley + deflector
- OEM adaptive front struts
- OEM top hats
- OEM front upper control arms

Also ordered the following as a splurge for the “rebuild”:
- Maxton Design new rear Diffuser
- OEM Carbon fiber exhaust tips for MPE
- OEM F36 LCI Blackline Euro-Spec Taillights retro-kit

I think this should spice the backend pretty nicely while keeping it OEM+

My mechanic has asked me to try and source a used Oil Cooler, the one that’s located on the passenger side behind bumper to try and save some costs…

QUESTION

I found a used CSF F87 M2 Race Oil cooler locally but not sure if it will fit on the F36 as a direct replacement as it does on the F87?

I’ve emailed CSF and still waiting on their response.

Hopefully the swap goes well and nothing else needs to be “replaced”

Do you remember which bearing? No 2 or 6?

[F36Vader]

Originally Posted by scotthilly

Any insight into what happened to cause the bearing? Do you mind sharing miles, mods, and if the ofhg was replaced recently?

I'm so sorry this happened to you man. Hopefully any info you have can help the community find answers to prevent this.

2015 435i GC xdrive
205k km or 127k miles
Oil change were done every 7000-8000 km religiously.
OFHG was replaced last year and there was no leaks present when the knock started.

I’m suspecting it was due to oil starvation… when hard breaking at high speeds

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

Do you remember which bearing? No 2 or 6?

I didn’t bother opening it up, the car was exhibiting an obvouse yet faint knock for a few weeks which progressively got louder and more pronounced, I stopped driving it completely for a few months and looked for a replacement motor. Sorta knew it was on its way out…

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by F36Vader

My F36 spun rod bearings are kaput and my mechanic found plent trace amounts of fairy dust in the oil as well…

TLDR:
Another N55 rod bearing case, is there anything else I should do while I’m at it??

Does the N55 M2 Oil cooler fit on F36 435i?

I already purchased a replacement low mileage EWG N55 and will be getting the swap done over the course of the next 2 weeks..

So while I’m at it ive opted to replace/add the following:
- New rod bearings on replacement motor
- N55 sump buffle
- Fresh gaskets eveything
- New Oil Pan
- New Hoses
- Front & rear diff service
- Belt & Pulley + deflector
- OEM adaptive front struts
- OEM top hats
- OEM front upper control arms

Also ordered the following as a splurge for the “rebuild”:
- Maxton Design new rear Diffuser
- OEM Carbon fiber exhaust tips for MPE
- OEM F36 LCI Blackline Euro-Spec Taillights retro-kit

I think this should spice the backend pretty nicely while keeping it OEM+

My mechanic has asked me to try and source a used Oil Cooler, the one that’s located on the passenger side behind bumper to try and save some costs…

QUESTION

I found a used CSF F87 M2 Race Oil cooler locally but not sure if it will fit on the F36 as a direct replacement as it does on the F87?

I’ve emailed CSF and still waiting on their response.

Hopefully the swap goes well and nothing else needs to be “replaced”

I don't think the F87 M2 (N55) oil cooler will be a bolt on replacement because the inlet and outlet might be at separate locations (top and bottom) on the oil cooler. Look at pictures of the original F87 M2 (N55) oil cooler as well as CSF's oil cooler.

CSF:


https://www.bimmerworld.com/Cooling/...xoCSo0QAvD_BwE

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

CSF is garbage - please avoid. A DO88 or ER oil cooler is better, and the ER actually fits the F non M cars.

My CSF N55 oil cooler (CSF #8145 F-Chassis N55 Race-Spec Oil Cooler) has worked well for me at HPDEs. Especially paired with my Mosselman Thermostat and pulling double duty at HPDEs with my SO.

I considered the ER oil cooler, but it's not a drop in replacement.

Has your CSF oil cooler failed you?

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

I don't think the F87 M2 (N55) oil cooler will be a bolt on replacement because the inlet and outlet might be at separate locations (top and bottom) on the oil cooler. Look at pictures of the original F87 M2 (N55) oil cooler as well as CSF's oil cooler.

CSF:


https://www.bimmerworld.com/Cooling/...xoCSo0QAvD_BwE





My CSF N55 oil cooler (CSF #8145 F-Chassis N55 Race-Spec Oil Cooler) has worked well for me at HPDEs. Especially paired with my Mosselman Thermostat and pulling double duty at HPDEs with my SO.

I considered the ER oil cooler, but it's not a drop in replacement.

Has your CSF oil cooler failed you?

The CSF oil cooler was good for 3F over the stock unit. Many M2 guys have had poor success with them. ER and DO88 are the go to, but DO88 is M2 specific.

I suspect the lower temp thermostat is doing most of the heavy lifting in your case.

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show...ght=oil+cooler

[F36Vader]

Thanks everyone for their input about the oil cooler. I decided to stick with stock for now and purchased a new OEM.

-Bad News
Unfortunately Maxton won’t have the diffuser available to pickup for at least a “couple” months…

-Good News
Mechanic said I have a spare turbo, Drive Shaft, transmission and transfer case as extra parts that came on the replacement motor.
I will try and sell locally maybe keep the turbo for future core charge.

Additions
Pulled the trigger on the VAC Motorsports upper & lower monoball control arms. VAC customer service was great they shipped the same day too!

Also purchased used OEM F8x Center console trim with Knee-pad off eBay, this will be my first interior mod.

Very excited to get the F36 back on the road with the new suspension refresh and mods.

LCI tails arrived and looking good!

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by F36Vader

I didn’t bother opening it up, the car was exhibiting an obvouse yet faint knock for a few weeks which progressively got louder and more pronounced, I stopped driving it completely for a few months and looked for a replacement motor. Sorta knew it was on its way out…

Replacing the OFHG without priming the oil circuit before restarting the engine can cause accelerated bearing wear. .

[Boostedphil698]

I think the N55 bearing situation is a toss up. Most people are now replacing them at 80k miles and above now as a precaution. Oil starvation when tracking will certainly cause failure on any car.

[LA1Z24]

Leaking OFHG's kill N55's.

An oil leak, is also an air leak.

The OFHG is at the very top of the engine. If it leaks oil out, it also leaks air IN.

This causes the OFH to completely drain every time you shut the engine off.

This has the effect of a dry start EVERY time you start the car.

Repair the OFHG as soon as you see it leaking, no matter how minute the leak appears to be.

[Boostedphil698]

Originally Posted by LA1Z24

Leaking OFHG's kill N55's.

An oil leak, is also an air leak.

The OFHG is at the very top of the engine. If it leaks oil out, it also leaks air IN.

This causes the OFH to completely drain every time you shut the engine off.

This has the effect of a dry start EVERY time you start the car.

Repair the OFHG as soon as you see it leaking, no matter how minute the leak appears to be.

Interesting take and I never thought of that. My 2015 435i has 43k on it and I'm doing the Mossleman oil TSTAT and I told the shop do the OFHG with it and make sure to prime it afterwards to avoid this very issue.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by Boostedphil698

Interesting take and I never thought of that. My 2015 435i has 43k on it and I'm doing the Mossleman oil TSTAT and I told the shop do the OFHG with it and make sure to prime it afterwards to avoid this very issue.

I would not install that T-STAT. The set temp is 85C which is below the temp at which water will evap off the oil.

[Boostedphil698]

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

I would not install that T-STAT. The set temp is 85C which is below the temp at which water will evap off the oil.

It starts to open at 85c. Most people have stable oil Temps at 220F after install. 212F is the evap point for condensation off oil.