[feuer]

Originally Posted by Stream

What about bolt and nut, that holds the bushing? Should I replace it with new or not?

If not rusted out re use it. I have reused mine twice already. I occasionally track my car and literally driver it every day and had no issues for 3 years now. Same with other vehicles I own. I know, is contrary to recommendations and people will argue here with me. Even the dealer doesn't not replace these...

[///Mposter]

Bought them to test this out and rate how hard it is.

[Stream]

When do you plan to install them?

[///Mposter]

Originally Posted by Stream

When do you plan to install them?

Working some 13 hour days. Pretty tired when I get home but hopefully this Sunday I can take a crack at it after I do the drive belt and tensioner. I'm undecided whether doing the OFHG right now as well because I have oil and radiator fluid due to be changed.

[///Mposter]

No luck pressing out the old. Also no luck finding something to compress the new one. I spent most of the afternoon searching around.

[///Mposter]

I'm thinking I may give up on doing this. I guess I have two options.
1) take it to the dealer and have them do this for both sides and charge me an hour labor most likely . ($130. )
2) buy the real tool set specifically for this
3) just buy the darn control arms new for $190.

[///Mposter]

So I went to the dealer and the short story is they didn't do it. I bought the special tool and it was pretty easy.

[///Mposter]

More pics

[///Mposter]

And lastly

[weehe126]

Well now this has my interest. How much was the tool and where did you get it? Did you just replace with stock bushings or M3?

[///Mposter]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Well now this has my interest. How much was the tool and where did you get it? Did you just replace with stock bushings or M3?

Google CTA-4080 and you will see it for $100 to $135 . The M3 bushings are $40. I just buttoned up the car tonight and I can definitely feel the difference. Also I use to always hear a clunk when going down my driveway and braking and now it is gone. It was that bad bushing.

[Stream]

Good job!

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by ///Mposter

Google CTA-4080 and you will see it for $100 to $135 . The M3 bushings are $40. I just buttoned up the car tonight and I can definitely feel the difference. Also I use to always hear a clunk when going down my driveway and braking and now it is gone. It was that bad bushing.

Thanks a lot, i'm getting that exact same clunk but dont want the camber from the full M3 CA.

[tetsuo111]

I just went through this process. Maybe I can help....

Mine's xDrive. M3 links fit in back, not in front, because the AWD front suspension is reversed compared with RWD.

Skip the M3 links / bushings. If you want to do this to address shortcomings in your car's ride and handling, just go straight to sealed heim joints. The M3 links are still too compliant. The M3 links add a small incremental improvement to the OEM ride, but not enough of an improvement to be worthwhile, IMO.

The sealed hiem joint I just installed in the front upper control arm is a dramatic improvement in reducing compliance, enhancing precision, without appreciable NVH. If I could do it over, I would put these bearings in the rear of the car, too.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1178750

[koches]

Originally Posted by tetsuo111

I just went through this process. Maybe I can help....

Mine's xDrive. M3 links fit in back, not in front, because the AWD front suspension is reversed compared with RWD.

Skip the M3 links / bushings. If you want to do this to address shortcomings in your car's ride and handling, just go straight to sealed heim joints. The M3 links are still too compliant. The M3 links add a small incremental improvement to the OEM ride, but not enough of an improvement to be worthwhile, IMO.

The sealed hiem joint I just installed in the front upper control arm is a dramatic improvement in reducing compliance, enhancing precision, without appreciable NVH. If I could do it over, I would put these bearings in the rear of the car, too.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1178750

Can you elaborate on what straight heim joints means?

[snaimpally]

Originally Posted by Johnny Boost

+1

For $20 extra per side, you could buy the whole control arm. Search for "TRW" control arms for the M3. TRW is the actual manufacturer of M3 suspension parts. BMW rebrands the parts and charges double the price.

Exactly what he said. The TRW FCA have the BMW logo ground off - they are the exact same ones as the OEM FCA but for nearly half the price.

[tetsuo111]

Originally Posted by koches

Can you elaborate on what straight heim joints means?

Meant to say - skip the M3 control links if low-compliance is your goal. Think about the benefits of the M3 suspension bits: 1) Aluminum material = lower weight, 2) stiffer bushings, and 3) slightly more camber

Using our OEM links with upgraded sealed hiem joints is a significant upgrade compared with the M3 stuff. In fact, if one already has camber plates, the sole advantage of the M3 bits over these is very slightly less weight. I'm fanatical about weight, have compared both products first-hand, and performance-wise there is no comparison. The sealed bushings are a significantly better low-compliance suspension product than the M3 products.

[///Mposter]

Originally Posted by snaimpally

Exactly what he said. The TRW FCA have the BMW logo ground off - they are the exact same ones as the OEM FCA but for nearly half the price.

Please tell everyone where you purchased TRW control arms for $40 a side compared to me or $70 a side compared to the OP.
ECS has TRW control arm for $94 each and OEM for $154 each.
Each M3 bushing was $20 delivered to my front door ( free shipping) and it replaces the same bushings because the control arms are the exact same with the exception of the bushing.
The other "rear" front control arm is the one that is straight instead of curved and adds negative camber.

[koches]

Originally Posted by tetsuo111

Meant to say - skip the M3 control links if low-compliance is your goal. Think about the benefits of the M3 suspension bits: 1) Aluminum material = lower weight, 2) stiffer bushings, and 3) slightly more camber

Using our OEM links with upgraded sealed hiem joints is a significant upgrade compared with the M3 stuff. In fact, if one already has camber plates, the sole advantage of the M3 bits over these is very slightly less weight. I'm fanatical about weight, have compared both products first-hand, and performance-wise there is no comparison. The sealed bushings are a significantly better low-compliance suspension product than the M3 products.

so the sealed heim joints replace the worn OEM bushing? Easy swap? How much did Synchro Design charge you?