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335i Brake Upgrade
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10-25-2014, 12:33 PM | #1 |
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335i Brake Upgrade
I am looking to upgrade my brakes on 335i. Is there a kit where I can use just bigger rotors on same calipers. Have done a search nothing came out.
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10-25-2014, 02:50 PM | #3 |
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esc has two peice rotors. stock diameter but a pretty nice upgrade...
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335...ors/ES2717944/ |
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10-25-2014, 05:16 PM | #5 |
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I like those but heard they were made in China. If I'm wrong please chime in. I also did hear you could get rear matching ones but I don't see them on their site. I'm planning on going stoptech drilled and slotted. Half the price and made in California. I'm going rotors and cool carbon pads probably because I hate dust instead of the full kit. It's supposed to be low dust but I want no dust. I don't really care about the stainless brake lines either so it's rotors and pads for me.
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10-25-2014, 05:45 PM | #6 |
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stop tech areo rotors are made in the usa. but they are exclusively for BBK's(i think). and i can guarantee they are expensive. like 300$ plus for rings alone. each.
stop tech sport rotors are definitely made overseas in asia, with, perhaps, final machining done in the usa. they are drilled and/or slotted centric rotors. those two piece ecs rotors are superior to sporttech sports in every way. |
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10-26-2014, 12:03 AM | #9 | |
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What is the difference between those and any other company, either than the weight.
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10-26-2014, 10:11 AM | #10 |
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Ordered the two piec3 rotors on ecs and waited over 2 months n they kept pushing th3 date,canceled and went with stop tech bbk on all 4 corners n glad i did the stopping power is crazy
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10-27-2014, 01:19 AM | #11 | |
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here is some interesting stuff information from this website: http://www.zeckhausen.com/How_to_sel...ake_rotors.htm "2-Piece Floating rotors consist of an iron "friction ring" assembled with float hardware to an aluminum hat or mounting bell. These are available slotted or drilled. 2-Piece rotors offer substantial weight savings over the 1-piece rotors described above, as much as 10 pounds per rotor, depending on the specific application. The design allows the outer friction ring to expand as it's heated, without being constrained by the center section. This prevents rotor "coning" and subsequent tapered pad wear and spongy pedal. Because the center section and friction ring are fabricated from dissimilar materials, conductive heat transfer is reduced, lowering wheel bearing temperatures dramatically. Outer friction rings may be replaced when worn, while reusing the center hat, at substantial cost savings. Click HERE for more details on the hardware and assembly of StopTech floating rotors. For track cars, these are absolute best choice and should be used when available. A disadvantage is significantly higher initial cost. For street cars driven in high-salt/chemical environments, corrosion between the iron friction rings, aluminum hats, and float hardware may lead to reduced product lifetime. This can be mitigated by flushing the brakes with water frequently or swapping back and forth between "summer" and "winter" brakes." |
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11-14-2014, 11:06 AM | #13 |
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If you're looking for more solid pedal feel and aren't needing larger rotors for track use or bling rotors for street/show the Bimmerworld solid guide rod bushings are dirt cheap and work incredibly well.
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11-14-2014, 11:13 AM | #15 |
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11-23-2014, 03:13 PM | #16 | |
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Im thinking of getting these and a set of Hawk pads all around.
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11-24-2014, 12:46 AM | #17 | |
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I just blew my budget again with headers. Working on a local dyno... I am goinna need something to blow some money on in a few months |
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01-06-2015, 09:41 PM | #20 | |
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What improvements did you see after swapping them in? Do they require any special maintenance, etc.? How about SS lines? Did they help at all on your setup? |
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01-06-2015, 10:00 PM | #21 | |
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No problems with the brakes at all except for the expected clunk due to the XP10 pads every time I brake reversing or going forward again as the pads set. Doesn't have anything to do with the guide pins, happens with the 135i front calipers as well. It'd be a good idea to check them regularly during the winter if you keep them installed through the worst of it. I'll be replacing the guide pins and bushings with every pad change just to be safe although it's probably not necessary since salt isn't used here when or if it snows/ices. The stainless lines aren't really necessary and they don't make all that much difference, I think. Debating on whether to swap new OE lines back in.
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2011 E90 328i 6MT, BMW Aero, CF hood/boot, PI+CAI+RM+3IM+BPC, SS+CI528+ThermoTec+SS#1+2XBurns, AKG 75D eng/trans, Al/Delrin diff/RS, CM 850, UCP, CAE, AKG DSSR, DiffsOnline 3.91 30/90 LSD+BW cooler, C&R, Setrab, Accusump, AST 3-way+Swift, Aurora PR+BW spherical, Vorshlag CPs, M3 brace+UR bar, ARC-8 18x8.5, 255 R1R, RB/CSL rotors+cooling, 135i calipers, RS29, RT700, Safecraft, OMP HTE-R+804F+QD Superquadro, 6pt cage+FIA, Braille, RT DL1Mk3
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01-06-2015, 11:05 PM | #22 |
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Just checked into this upgrade. $65 per axle is dirt cheap. I drive a lot... 25k+ a year. Anything I should be worried about? Lubricate and all good?
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