[LanDzia]

Calling all e90 owners! I need an outsider to give me an unbiased opinion on my car.

I've got e90 330i auto, pre lci with n52 engine. Overall I like the car, however I'm at the point where I'm having second thoughts whether to keep the car, or sell it and buy something else.

The good:
- Less than 100k miles
- Body work and interrior - overall great
- Only 1 active fault code - AUC sensor, not a big deal!

The bad:
- rare transmission error (4f8d). Needs new seals (and while at it, all solenoids). Other than this happening once in a few months, the gearbox is as good as it gets. Pushing this job until i decide what to do moving forward.
- oil pan leak
- Small coolant leak somewhere (need to top it up with few hundred ml every few months)
- General service history quite poor. The only things that's been replaced in the past include:

From previous owners:
a) Waterpump & thermostat at 60k miles
b) Plugs and coils over 6 years ago at 55k miles
c) OFHG at 65k miles
d) both Vanos Solenoids at 90k miles

From myself:
a) 2x lower control arms
b) power steering reservoir & fluid
c) transmission oil & pan
d) 1x door actuator
e) maf & bonnet sensors
f) all brake discs & pads at 97k miles
g) all pulleys & new belt at 95k miles

Not counting smaller bits and pieces, fixing broken trunk wires etc.

As it stands, I would need to do followings things in order to get the car to the place I'd like it to be:

- 4 New tires (non rft). Currently with all original potenzas with OK thread, but massive tramlining. Not fun to drive.
- gearbox service (change of solenoids and all rubber seals)
- 2x disa valves
- VCG in the near future given mileage
- New plugs and coils given age
- New shocks with all associated parts (both front & back), (possibly adding to tramlining)
- Coolant mickey-mouse flange and potentially a new hose

If all of these common issues would be dealt with, the car will be in a very good condition, however as you might guessed, it'll get quite costly to get this all done.

I would probably be able to sell the car AS IS between £4-£5k because it's driving currently spotless.

Few options I have in mind:
A) Fix all things and keep the car for next few years. Car value + repairs would end up costing about as much as a used F10 with N52/N53 (minus unknown of it's service history). Given e90 won't depreciate much more (i think?), is it worth keeping it, or should I sell it while I can?
B) Sell this car and get F10 with the same engine. Higher cost, but potentially higher resel value? Smarter financial decision in a long run, or no?
I like design of early F10 m sport much more, looks and feels much more luxurious and for the most part has all the same engine.

I'm currently saving for a house, so not willing to spend more than £10k for a car. And given I could buy for this money F10 with N52/N53 (much nicer, bigger and newer), I'm not sure it's a smart move as all same parts might be failing there too, thus potentially increasing total spend on a car.

Please share your thoguhts as I've been debating this for quite a few months now! Car price market is currently on a high end, however it seems it started to cool down. Probably a good time for such decisions?

Appreciate your time reading this through!

[StradaRedlands]

E90 and F10 owner here, both N52 cars. F10s are much nicer and comfortable cars, much larger as well. E90 is better in a tighter urban environment. F10s have terrible sight lines for parking. All parts on a F10 are at least 10% more to purchase. And I have had to replace just about everything. It's finally working well now, but I'm scared of whatever comes next. Probably active suspension shocks/struts which are stupid-expensive. If you want a smaller/taught car, go E90 and fix the things you know are wrong. If you want nicer & larger, go for the F10, but be prepared to have to do pretty much all the service items you mentioned as well. Same exact engine with the same exact problems. Starter, VCG, radiator, water pump will all need replacing. Because of that, it won't be a money saver in my opinion.
F10 is my spouse's car, and she LOVES it. I'm all about the E90 life. But I look at the F10, and am amazed at how good it looks. Perfect proportions and lines. E39 was the same way. BMW really knows how to make a five series (E60, you go stand in the corner and think about what you did wrong!).
My rec is to fix up the known good car you have (and rare with the N52 3 stage) and drive it. It has a lot more miles on it, and everything sounds good/normal other than the transmission problems. Remember, the best used car is the one you own!

[Efthreeoh]

I'll give you my thoughts. Just to frame my point of view I generally keep my cars 15 years and over 200,000 miles. I do most all my own repairs except AC work and wheel alignments and transmission rebuilds. My E90 has a few multiple hundred thousand miles on it on it and I'm the original owner, so I've been through this several times.

The E90 is built like a tank and easily goes 300,000 miles with moderate maintenance and proper care. At under 100,000 miles your car, depending on it's maintenance history, has another 100,000 miles in it for way less than £10k.

Looking at the past maintenance cost without evaluation of it is not the proper way to look at this. Look at what your Maintenace costs have been over the miles you have driven the car and over the total miles on the odometer. You can't count tires or brakes as determining factors because every car needs brakes and tires. But the brakes you just paid for and the serp belt and pulleys are new also, so you have 100,000 miles left in those parts.

My thoughts on your list.

- 4 New tires (non rft). Currently with all original potenzas with OK thread, but massive tramlining. Not fun to drive. - try adjusting the air pressures and check the condition of the tierods. And check the alignment. Most shops do not do well trying to align BMW suspensions. I've found it is worth paying a BMW dealer to perform alignments.
- gearbox service (change of solenoids and all rubber seals) - I think you have that issue well considered
- 2x disa valves - preemptive replacement is a hard decision to make. This is where a DIY'er has an advantage because it is easy work and the parts are not that expensive.
- VCG in the near future given mileage - wait until it leaks. It may never leak.
- New plugs and coils given age - wait until there is a misfire code traced to a coil. The plugs were replaced 45,000 miles early, so you are at the mid-point of plug replacement. The 330i requires plugs every 100,000 miles (if the proper plugs were installed). But again, wait for a misfire code.
- New shocks with all associated parts (both front & back), (possibly adding to tramlining) - judgement call IMO. People think BMW suspensions wear out prematurely, I don't follow that thinking. Have you checked for leaking struts and shocks?
- Coolant mickey-mouse flange and potentially a new hose - definitely have the flange replaced, as it is a known failure point.

A simple pressure test of the cooling system will show if there are any leaks. It may just be you need a new reservoir cap.

If you want a 5-series for the size and luxury then the E90 condition has nothing to do with that decision. IMO you are just trading one used car for another. A new to you used car that will need its own level of refurbishment. If ownership cost is a major consideration to you, I'm of the mind to stick with what you know. You know your E90.

My 2 cents.

[Leucosticte]

If you are considering an F10 just keep in mind that the driving experience is totally different compared to an E90, I have driven both and they feel much more floaty and less communicative to drive. They are nice for highway commutes though.

The F10 has the ZF8 which is a great transmission which is definitely in it's favor. Also keep in mind that the F10 N52 has some exclusive parts that will be more expensive than the N52 in the E90.

In my opinion I prefer the E9X more to the F10 because of the simpler electronics and in my opinion a superior driving experience. By getting an F10 you're going to have to address whatever problems that car may have, it's going to be an unknown variable basically and we all know that most used BMWs are not maintained properly. However if you're doing lots of highway commuting where the ZF8 and the F10s comfort will shine then it might not be a bad idea if you can find a nice example.

[CTinline-six]

I'd keep the 330i. The 330i is a rare bird and the most powerful NA E9x available in the US.

The things you mentioned it will need are just basic maintenance that pretty much any used BMW will need. As Efthreeoh mentioned there is a level of refurbishment that any used car will need before it is up to par, and many times the devil you know is better than the devil sitting on someone's used car lot.

I've been in a similar situation with my car recently, but used cars are expensive, and in my opinion with the way the market is you have to pay a lot to even get something that isn't completely trashed or needs a bunch of work to be up to standards, so keeping the known quantity I have seems to make way more sense.

I have a friend who recently sold her 2011 E91 because it was getting up there in mileage and needed a few thousand in repairs. She bought something else, hated it, and is currently trying to find another E91.

[eljay]

If you want something else, then go get it and enjoy it.
But it maes little sense to sell a low mileage E90 with known history and known issues for "financial reasons".

[ppointer]

I think StradaRedlands nailed it. My preferred drive is the e90 over the f10, so I have five of them in the family (two of my own). But, your current car is the best used car you know. If you buy another used car, it is for sale because someone else didn't want to deal with upcoming maintenance and repair. For my money, I would fix the one I own and drive it another 100k+ miles.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by LanDzia

... e90 330i auto, pre lci with n52 engine... - rare transmission error (4f8d). Needs new seals (and while at it, all solenoids). [According to WHOM?] Other than this happening once in a few months, the gearbox is as good as it gets. Pushing this job until i decide what to do moving forward.
From myself:...
transmission oil & pan [Did YOU do that fluid & pan change? HOW did you Add New Fluid/ Check Level?]
- 4 New tires (non rft). Currently with all original potenzas with OK thread, but massive tramlining. Not fun to drive...

Here is BMW Fault Code Lookup Definition of "4F8D" code & link to Fault Info page. NOTE first step: CHECK FLUID LEVEL:
P17EC | 4F8D | EGS: Ratio monitoring, gearshift 5-4 | GS19B | Transmission control
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...IANgA2ADAANAA=

If you have INPA, you can view EGS "History Memory" (HistorienSpeicher), and see if there were any instances of 4F8D fault code BEFORE you changed Trans Fluid/ Pan. That would be further clue related to fluid level.

Original tires were probably Continental Runflat RSC. BMW selected those FOR A REASON. If you have NEVER driven an E9x with RSC Runflat Conti's, try it BEFORE you dismiss them as somehow "Inferior". I realize there are numerous posts knocking RSC tires. I'm on my 2nd set. Excellent handling, braking, noise level, traction -- absolutely NO Tramlining. I carry an air pump, plug kit, keep a 5th duplicate Wheel/Tire at home, and have NEVER had a tire issue.

I would NOT presume to tell you what to keep, sell, or Replace "pre-emptively". Your 330i is low mileage and if "A6CF" AUC Sensor is ONLY fault, then well-maintained. If you "pre-emptively FIXED" everything anyone complains about on E9x Forums, you would be a "busy man". My moto:
"If it ain't BROKE, don't FIX it!

I have NO Fault Codes on 3/2007 build 328xi with 140,000+ miles. I do all my own work including Transmission (GM6) fluid/filter replacement, and all other fluids. ONLY mechanical repair was replacing Bosch plugs (with same Bosch part) in first 2 weeks of ownership, due to 2 instances of "Misfire" at > 5,000 RPM due to enlarged plug gaps (0.055+" gap instead of .040" spec). YMMV.
George

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Here is BMW Fault Code Lookup Definition of "4F8D" code & link to Fault Info page. NOTE first step: CHECK FLUID LEVEL:
P17EC | 4F8D | EGS: Ratio monitoring, gearshift 5-4 | GS19B | Transmission control
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...IANgA2ADAANAA=

If you have INPA, you can view EGS "History Memory" (HistorienSpeicher), and see if there were any instances of 4F8D fault code BEFORE you changed Trans Fluid/ Pan. That would be further clue related to fluid level.

Original tires were probably Continental Runflat RSC. BMW selected those FOR A REASON. If you have NEVER driven an E9x with RSC Runflat Conti's, try it BEFORE you dismiss them as somehow "Inferior". I realize there are numerous posts knocking RSC tires. I'm on my 2nd set. Excellent handling, braking, noise level, traction -- absolutely NO Tramlining. I carry an air pump, plug kit, keep a 5th duplicate Wheel/Tire at home, and have NEVER had a tire issue.

I would NOT presume to tell you what to keep, sell, or Replace "pre-emptively". Your 330i is low mileage and if "A6CF" AUC Sensor is ONLY fault, then well-maintained. If you "pre-emptively FIXED" everything anyone complains about on E9x Forums, you would be a "busy man". My moto:
"If it ain't BROKE, don't FIX it!

I have NO Fault Codes on 3/2007 build 328xi with 140,000+ miles. I do all my own work including Transmission (GM6) fluid/filter replacement, and all other fluids. ONLY mechanical repair was replacing Bosch plugs (with same Bosch part) in first 2 weeks of ownership, due to 2 instances of "Misfire" at > 5,000 RPM due to enlarged plug gaps (0.055+" gap instead of .040" spec). YMMV.
George

Most excellent advice as usual. But the DISA question is a difficult one, which I am struggling with, with my Z4. Sitting at 120,000 miles now, which seems to be the timeframe for failures. You and I agree on not chasing new parts after good parts just because the internet says so. But a DISA failure can mean dislodgement of the butterfly valve body and possible ingestion of the steel axle pin.

A quandary for sure.

[Cal122]

Adding my vote to keep it. Love the E9X platform so much I keep adding them to my garage. I've driven both the F and G line extensively and keep going back to the E90. Hopefully your 330 came with the sports package, which is something special, so even more of a reason to keep it.

[LanDzia]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Here is BMW Fault Code Lookup Definition of "4F8D" code & link to Fault Info page. NOTE first step: CHECK FLUID LEVEL:
P17EC | 4F8D | EGS: Ratio monitoring, gearshift 5-4 | GS19B | Transmission control
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...IANgA2ADAANAA=

If you have INPA, you can view EGS "History Memory" (HistorienSpeicher), and see if there were any instances of 4F8D fault code BEFORE you changed Trans Fluid/ Pan. That would be further clue related to fluid level.

Original tires were probably Continental Runflat RSC. BMW selected those FOR A REASON. If you have NEVER driven an E9x with RSC Runflat Conti's, try it BEFORE you dismiss them as somehow "Inferior". I realize there are numerous posts knocking RSC tires. I'm on my 2nd set. Excellent handling, braking, noise level, traction -- absolutely NO Tramlining. I carry an air pump, plug kit, keep a 5th duplicate Wheel/Tire at home, and have NEVER had a tire issue.

I would NOT presume to tell you what to keep, sell, or Replace "pre-emptively". Your 330i is low mileage and if "A6CF" AUC Sensor is ONLY fault, then well-maintained. If you "pre-emptively FIXED" everything anyone complains about on E9x Forums, you would be a "busy man". My moto:
"If it ain't BROKE, don't FIX it!

I have NO Fault Codes on 3/2007 build 328xi with 140,000+ miles. I do all my own work including Transmission (GM6) fluid/filter replacement, and all other fluids. ONLY mechanical repair was replacing Bosch plugs (with same Bosch part) in first 2 weeks of ownership, due to 2 instances of "Misfire" at > 5,000 RPM due to enlarged plug gaps (0.055+" gap instead of .040" spec). YMMV.
George

Thanks for chiming in! This is exactly the type of comments I was hoping to get!

I came to conclusion regarding transmission myself, based on extensive research and multiple chats with ZF directly.
I've checked with INPA and this fault code indeed was present few times before transmission fluid & pan (With filter) change.
Fluid change has been done according to specs. I've even checked the level after about 8 months by putting the car on the lift and with around 45 degree temeperature. It was full.
The reason these seals were not replaced (as they should have been as standard during fluid change) as I wasn't aware of them at the time. Afterwards I've researched the shit out of this transmission alongside variation of issues. 4f8d is very rare and it's caused by either over sensitive mechatronic (software update or reset adaptations as per US SI B 24 04 07 can help). I've done software update - it didn't help. Another cause is due to old, possibly broken seals transmission is loosing pressure during certain conditions when this code occurs (hard acceleration followed by somewhat hard braking, accelerating again and repeat this cycle around 5 times). Very rarely I drive like a maniac, thus this doesn't occur often. Solenoids - while at it!
That being said, there's a small chance it can be a worn out E clutch bushing, which would require total overhaul of transmission, but this seems very unlikely given mileage. It would not hold pressure as well, causing such issue. It's somewhat a common thing with ZF 6hp19, however it usually occurs in a way higher milage cars.
Anyways....
The problem with BMW assessment of transmissions is always the same, they do not fix them. It's much easier and safer for them to suggest simply change whole transmission. That's why you see such nonsense such as "check fluid level, if it's OK and problem persists, throw everything away". Not even a second though on what's actually the problem.
As mentioned before, if I don't drive in such crazy manner, transmission shifts like a clock. Never had any issues with it.

Since It's a UK model, it came with Bridgestone Potenza's RFT. All previous owners were simply putting the same tires. Currently it has slight uneven wear on the outer edge, but still about 4-5mm of thread.
My mechanic checked all suspension components multiple times in a span of a year and there are 0 plays/leaks etc in any of the bushings, including tie rods. That's why I came to conclusion it's the tires and causing this.
I've tried multiple pressures, lower and recommended with similar result. With higher pressure it feels a bit more stable (still tramlining), but the ride is getting way too harsh.
After all research on forums etc I came to conclusion non-rft tires are much softer, handling better and give overall better driving experience.

There's only 1 fault code that I don't care about, other than that I'm checking it every 2-3 weeks and as soon as there's something (light, wire etc.) I would try and fix it asap.

My biggest concern I guess are DISA, even though there's no code, as other person have mentioned, they can get sucked into the engine with some less than perfect outcomes.

[lordnikon]

Keep the gem

[LanDzia]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I'll give you my thoughts. Just to frame my point of view I generally keep my cars 15 years and over 200,000 miles. I do most all my own repairs except AC work and wheel alignments and transmission rebuilds. My E90 has a few multiple hundred thousand miles on it on it and I'm the original owner, so I've been through this several times.

The E90 is built like a tank and easily goes 300,000 miles with moderate maintenance and proper care. At under 100,000 miles your car, depending on it's maintenance history, has another 100,000 miles in it for way less than £10k.

Looking at the past maintenance cost without evaluation of it is not the proper way to look at this. Look at what your Maintenace costs have been over the miles you have driven the car and over the total miles on the odometer. You can't count tires or brakes as determining factors because every car needs brakes and tires. But the brakes you just paid for and the serp belt and pulleys are new also, so you have 100,000 miles left in those parts.

My thoughts on your list.

- 4 New tires (non rft). Currently with all original potenzas with OK thread, but massive tramlining. Not fun to drive. - try adjusting the air pressures and check the condition of the tierods. And check the alignment. Most shops do not do well trying to align BMW suspensions. I've found it is worth paying a BMW dealer to perform alignments.
- gearbox service (change of solenoids and all rubber seals) - I think you have that issue well considered
- 2x disa valves - preemptive replacement is a hard decision to make. This is where a DIY'er has an advantage because it is easy work and the parts are not that expensive.
- VCG in the near future given mileage - wait until it leaks. It may never leak.
- New plugs and coils given age - wait until there is a misfire code traced to a coil. The plugs were replaced 45,000 miles early, so you are at the mid-point of plug replacement. The 330i requires plugs every 100,000 miles (if the proper plugs were installed). But again, wait for a misfire code.
- New shocks with all associated parts (both front & back), (possibly adding to tramlining) - judgement call IMO. People think BMW suspensions wear out prematurely, I don't follow that thinking. Have you checked for leaking struts and shocks?
- Coolant mickey-mouse flange and potentially a new hose - definitely have the flange replaced, as it is a known failure point.

A simple pressure test of the cooling system will show if there are any leaks. It may just be you need a new reservoir cap.

If you want a 5-series for the size and luxury then the E90 condition has nothing to do with that decision. IMO you are just trading one used car for another. A new to you used car that will need its own level of refurbishment. If ownership cost is a major consideration to you, I'm of the mind to stick with what you know. You know your E90.

My 2 cents.

Appreciate your thorough response! Exactly what I needed to hear!

Tires - I've done alignment at a reputable place, tie rods look good with no play or any oil coming out, and I've tried different tire pressures (recommended, a bit lower and a bit higher). So far recommended are probably the best, but tramlining is incredible to the point I'd need to hold steering wheel with both hands on high speed as it doesn't feel safe... Ruins whole driving experience!
That being said, it can be also caused by old shocks, that are original from late 2005. No leakage or cracks though, so the only way to inspect is to remove them...

DISA's - after all my research it seems OEM are the only option, suprisingly after all these years... And they cost a little fortune... This is why I'm even questioning, taking all parts that I'd need to change right now, would come to a cost of the car itself. Is it worth it though...? It's a tough one.

Plugs & coils - It doesn't seem to have any misfire, although I'd say car idles on a cold start not ideally. But I don't attribute much to plugs and coils simply because it seems there's plenty of power in a full range of RPM's. I could kick down from standstill no issues.
The issue with both of these is they're old, over 6 years in the engine. And from research it's best to change plugs more often to prevent potential destruction of thread when trying to remove them due to corosion and other things. And coil lifespan seem to be around 5-7 years.