[Lux3m35i]

Hello,

I‘m currently rebuilding my 07‘ N54 and will change the timing chain. So I found this guy claiming that starting from 09‘ N54 up to N55 and S55 they received a crank hub update

11237593701 Crank Hub
11317502180 Sprocket
11418091535 Crank Sprocket with grip disk
11237557561 Washer
11211439395 Crank bolt

So realmoem says this will fit to N54 starting from 02/2009. Do early N54 have different crankshafts? Or will it fit?

If it fits why does BMW does not offer the upgrade for early models or do early models not suffer from timing slip? I don‘t remember that N54 have a general crank hub problem back then, until these S55 issues came out.

Source: YT - OEM crank hub update

[Mustafa.e92]

Even the updated stuff from bmw isn’t the solution. If you are this deep into the build and plan to put the motor through it’s paces I would look at an aftermarket pinned upgrade.

[Lux3m35i]

Found a statement of a BMW engineer that a pinned crank isn‘t the solution neither as long you don‘t pin it to the crank. It wont be a DIY job to pin the crank and in my case I don‘t replace the rod bearings.

Since I dont wanna put crazy power figures I probably stay for OEM crank hub. The question is which one is better.

[335i54n]

he doesn't say the hub update is after 09 (talking about crank bolt 8/6)-specifically says any n54 wont have it.

not really an n54 issue, likely to bend a rod or lose compression than hub slip. if youre there (timing not really common issue either) why not updated parts.

[Lux3m35i]

The compression and cylinder walls are in perfect condition. The only issue I had was that all joints were leaking. From valve shaft down to oil pan. And the OEM turbos needs to be replaced too because of the wastegates. So dropping the whole engine with the subframe was a quicker job.

I was considering changing the main and rod bearing at this point. But since there is no sign of wear I‘m not sure.

Changing the timingchain after 16 years is not a bad idea, the guides risk to break apart over the years.

[Mustafa.e92]

The updated crank hub from bmw dosent do much. It still uses the same concept of a friction washer and crazy torque on the crank bolt to squeeze everything together. Again if you don’t plan to track the car or beat the shit out of it it’s not very common but it would be dead wrong to say it’s not an issue. The concept bmw had makes sense as their should never be enough resistance in the cams to cause a timing issue and this is true for majority of stock cars/drivers. However when your demanding almost twice+ what bmw designed the engine for go bang off limiter and drive the car like you stole it with hard downshifts ect the chance of you messing up the timing goes up a lot. Not getting into details but the point is the crank gear needs to be directly pinned to the crank as the chance of the pin snapping is much less likley. Sounds like in your case you just want to catch up on some maintiance and slap the motor back in so I get why one would skip doing the crank hub especially stockmotor. Just wanted to put some info out their.

Last week I had one of my customers spin his crank hub. Stock motor rb2’s on stock DI. Granted he beat the shit out of his car off redline and hard shifts but it happened none the less.

[Raptor04]

Originally Posted by Mustafa.e92

The updated crank hub from bmw dosent do much. It still uses the same concept of a friction washer and crazy torque on the crank bolt to squeeze everything together. Again if you don’t plan to track the car or beat the shit out of it it’s not very common but it would be dead wrong to say it’s not an issue. The concept bmw had makes sense as their should never be enough resistance in the cams to cause a timing issue and this is true for majority of stock cars/drivers. However when your demanding almost twice+ what bmw designed the engine for go bang off limiter and drive the car like you stole it with hard downshifts ect the chance of you messing up the timing goes up a lot. Not getting into details but the point is the crank gear needs to be directly pinned to the crank as the chance of the pin snapping is much less likley. Sounds like in your case you just want to catch up on some maintiance and slap the motor back in so I get why one would skip doing the crank hub especially stockmotor. Just wanted to put some info out their.

Last week I had one of my customers spin his crank hub. Stock motor rb2’s on stock DI. Granted he beat the shit out of his car off redline and hard shifts but it happened none the less.

When this happened to your customer, is the engine repairable or does it require replacement?

[Mustafa.e92]

It varies on the damage and how much the timing got screwed. If your manual this can also happen from a money shift. Best case scenario the timing moved very little. Enough to throw timing correlation codes but not enough to have piston on valve contact. Some of the F80 guys get away with it. If that is the case a leak down test will show that their is no bent valves before you try to redo the timing and send it. Other times the piston and valves make love. The damage than varies a lot from just bent valves, combustion chamber damage from the piston banging the bent valve ect. Some shops will repair some will quote you a used engine. They are pretty cheap for this platform

[Mustafa.e92]

here’s that engine, bottom end still looks good slight knick on the piston. Going to see what the machine shop says but it’s either a head job or used head

[Lux3m35i]

I ordered a Timing chain kit (48386) and oil chain kit (103880) from Febi. They seem to be first supplier since they grinded the BMW of the parts. But the oilchain sproked seems to be from the 09 model with the pinned friction disk?

[iqraceworks]

Why are you wanting to replace the timing chain? I've always heard that the timing chains on the N54's will pretty much last forever as long as you do regular oil changes and don't sludge up the motor.

I'm in the progress of rebuilding my 07' N54 also...it's got around 100K miles on it, and I was just planning on leaving the timing chain alone.

[Mustafa.e92]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Why are you wanting to replace the timing chain? I've always heard that the timing chains on the N54's will pretty much last forever as long as you do regular oil changes and don't sludge up the motor.

I'm in the progress of rebuilding my 07' N54 also...it's got around 100K miles on it, and I was just planning on leaving the timing chain alone.

As preventative maintenance your right their is no need. Actual chain issues are extremely rare. Broken guides sometimes can happen with higher mileage again rare.
However if you have the motor pulled apart I don’t understand why you wouldn’t want the peace of mind knowing theirs fresh guides and chains. It’s only like $140 for the kit

[Lux3m35i]

The guide can fall apart over the years. Had the issue with my N63. But I start to believe that Febi only offers timing chain kits for 09‘ and later models. With or without a new chain tensioner.

Does this mean I need to buy a kit and buy an old version of the sproked? or upgrade to the new hub design?

Finding the right parts is harder than changing the chain.

[Lux3m35i]

To conclude the thread. If you have a N54 from 2007-2008 and you replace your oilpump chain you need to upgrade to the new crank hub design.

The old crankhub and timing sprocket are still available in the case you only change the timing chain.

[iqraceworks]

Here are the part numbers for the "updated" design in case anyone need them.....

[daly_135i]

I need to replace just the crankhub on my 08 135i. Can I buy the upgraded one or do I have to replace it with the old style crankhub?

[Lux3m35i]

Originally Posted by daly_135i

I need to replace just the crankhub on my 08 135i. Can I buy the upgraded one or do I have to replace it with the old style crankhub?

In that case you need to buy the old crank hub design, which is still available. Pay attention to not lose the grip disks while pulling out the crankhub. Grip disks needs to be replaced if damaged.