[oogabooga]

Did a search for this already and found limited information.
I am thinking about using Redline 5w40 OR Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w40 for my next oil change.

I've read a lot about how the ester of the Redline oil and the high zinc contents ruin oxygen sensors. Anyone else have experience with this? I know a lot of people out there use this oil so I want to get a poll on if its affected your sensors.

Thanks.

[oogabooga]

Bump. Still wondering. Can't find any info online.

[floydarogers]

Originally Posted by oogabooga

Bump. Still wondering. Can't find any info online.

Didn't I answer your question in some other thread/forum?

[123Britt]

Been running RL 5W-30 in 335i --- without issue for over a year. Approx 25k miles with OCI of 5K.

[cvc 22349a]

OP-would you please post if you find an answer to your question. I'm going to switch from bmw oil to either of those two (RL 5/30) at my next OC, probably the Motul since it's LL01

[Brian_TII]

Why bother? Best case your engine might last 356k miles instead of 350k using bmw's recommended oil.... Or it might only last 150k on redline. Why pay more for potentially less longevity? These cars aren't having oil related problems with recommended oils and drain intervals. Just don't see the point in fixing something that's not broken. But good luck with whatever you decide.

[oogabooga]

Originally Posted by Brian_TII

Why bother? Best case your engine might last 356k miles instead of 350k using bmw's recommended oil.... Or it might only last 150k on redline. Why pay more for potentially less longevity? These cars aren't having oil related problems with recommended oils and drain intervals. Just don't see the point in fixing something that's not broken. But good luck with whatever you decide.

I see where you're coming from. I've just read that I am better off using an oil with a high TBN and slightly thicker weight at temp to protect the turbos. I just like the piece of mind knowing that I have oil with better properties (both base and additive wise). I've also toyed around with the idea of putting T6 in the thing.

[oogabooga]

Originally Posted by cvc 22349a

OP-would you please post if you find an answer to your question. I'm going to switch from bmw oil to either of those two (RL 5/30) at my next OC, probably the Motul since it's LL01

Why are you considering the 5w30 as opposed to the 5w40? Just curious.

[MiniXP]

Originally Posted by Brian_TII

Why bother? Best case your engine might last 356k miles instead of 350k using bmw's recommended oil.... Or it might only last 150k on redline. Why pay more for potentially less longevity? These cars aren't having oil related problems with recommended oils and drain intervals. Just don't see the point in fixing something that's not broken. But good luck with whatever you decide.

These cars are having oil related problems. I had rod bearing failure and have recently been seeing more people with the same issue as well. I wouldn't say it's a wide spread issue, but it definitely happens.

[floydarogers]

Originally Posted by oogabooga

I see where you're coming from. I've just read that I am better off using an oil with a high TBN and slightly thicker weight at temp to protect the turbos. I just like the piece of mind knowing that I have oil with better properties (both base and additive wise). I've also toyed around with the idea of putting T6 in the thing.

Shell Rotella T6 has lower TBN, and is a low-saps formulation. You will need to change more often than a LL-01 oil. (T6 is probably close to an LL-04 oil, used with diesels or ultra-low sulphur gasoline. Hard to tell since it's ACEA rating is E9.)

[Brian_TII]

Originally Posted by MiniXP

These cars are having oil related problems. I had rod bearing failure and have recently been seeing more people with the same issue as well. I wouldn't say it's a wide spread issue, but it definitely happens.

Interesting, first I'd heard of the n54 having rod bearing issues. Any chance they're similar to the issues with the S65? (Clearances being overly tight according to some)

[MiniXP]

Originally Posted by Brian_TII

Interesting, first I'd heard of the n54 having rod bearing issues. Any chance they're similar to the issues with the S65? (Clearances being overly tight according to some)

I'm not really sure. I don't know too much about motor failures, so I'm kind of learning as I take my old one apart.

I have 3 current theories (although I'm always coming up with different ones)

1. BMW's extended oil change interval is at fault
2. Something to do with the cam bearing ledges. (I have to read more about this one as I'm not actually sure if that could affect a rod bearing somehow).
3. Leaky injectors causing fuel to get into the oil and compromising its lubricating ability.

Like I said, these are all just theories without much to back them, so if anyone wants to comment on them feel free.

[123Britt]

DI Turbo engines run at higher temps, are hard on seals and bake oil particulate on intake valves ~ all of which are supported by the superiority of the POEsters found in type V oils like Redline . The NOACK value of 6% alone should be enticing enough get your attention after you see your N54 / N55 intake valves after 50k. They were a PITA to clean - so bring on the OCC / RB PCV & Redline 5W-30 to support a cleaner engine, lower oil temps, seal swell in my older engine, turbo spool & lag support.

[oogabooga]

Originally Posted by 123Britt

DI Turbo engines run at higher temps, are hard on seals and bake oil particulate on intake valves ~ all of which are supported by the superiority of the POEsters found in type V oils like Redline . The NOACK value of 6% alone should be enticing enough get your attention after you see your N54 / N55 intake valves after 50k. They were a PITA to clean - so bring on the OCC / RB PCV & Redline 5W-30 to support a cleaner engine, lower oil temps, seal swell in my older engine, turbo spool & lag support.

Why not the 5w40? I've only read recommendations for that weight.

[Sgop335]

Rl 5w40 is too thick at start up, esp for cold weathers. Think its about 97cp at 40c, atleast 20cp more than other 0w40 and 30wt oils. Even at 100c its thicker. If you want to use Rl 5w30 is better.

[jwzimm]

Originally Posted by 123Britt

... The NOACK value of 6% alone should be enticing enough get your attention after you see your N54 / N55 intake valves after 50k. They were a PITA to clean - so bring on the OCC / RB PCV & Redline 5W-30 to support a cleaner engine, lower oil temps, seal swell in my older engine, turbo spool & lag support.

Just FYI, the N55's are really not as bad as the N54's when it comes to the carbon buildup on the intake ports/valves. I just had mine cleaned at 45k and they were not very dirty at all: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1065279

[oogabooga]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

Rl 5w40 is too thick at start up, esp for cold weathers. Think its about 97cp at 40c, atleast 20cp more than other 0w40 and 30wt oils. Even at 100c its thicker. If you want to use Rl 5w30 is better.

Thank you for the clarification. I will use RL 5w30 if I do go that route. Seems like the consensus is that the oxygen sensors are not getting messed up by using RL, correct? Nobody who has used it for continuous oil changes for ~ 10k miles + has experienced oxygen sensor failure?