[StealYourFace]

I did the control arms at 80k miles, upper/lowers with M3 parts. I have a driver side front clunk and shimmy at speed, and under braking. Car now has 142k. It was the same with snow tires and now my summers, so tires aren't the issue.

Wheel bearings done about 20k miles ago as well, and the rotors were just turned.

Our roads are beat to death here, so 60k miles for control arms is reasonable.

I don't want to do both uppers and lowers again if I don't have to. Is it the upper (curvy looking part aka tension rod) or lower that causes these symptons, wears out quicker?

Or should I just get all 4 again. The TRWs with the M scraped off are about $380 for the uppers and lowers.

Thanks for the input.

[StealYourFace]

Anyone, uppers or lowers?

[mankytron]

This wobble is either caused by the tension strut (bushing or ball joint) or rotors. Even though you just had the rotors turned there could be an uneven cut or deposits. Did you rebed the pads after the rotors where cut? Did the vibration change after the rotors were cut? If just the tension strut bushing is weak, you could just press in a new one, but if the ball joint is loose you need a new arm.

[NudeLobster]

you would feel the rotors in the brake pedal, so if its steering wheel feedback only then it is not rotors. I can't help with which arm it is though :/

[StealYourFace]

Agreed, it's def not the rotors, the shake isn't there if the suspension is loaded, like in a turn.

I think I will get new tension rods, and tie rod end/ball joints. The Meyle tie rod end/ball joints are only $45 a piece from FC Euro.