[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by krashDH

Ha, yeah I read about that one, thanks for the heads up. Is there anywhere published where the stock ride height for the different packages and wheels is supposed to be?

I really don't like how low the PO has it with the B14 coilovers. I know they're 30-50mm lowering, but I want to be as max height as I can safely and comfortably get with these. I need to get the bumper and headlights out this weekend for a restoration, and I don't think I can even get my low profile jack under the side points to even get one leg up in the air.

If I can weasel it high enough, Probably gonna have to put a board or ramp under when it's up and then try to level it from the center point, then get jack stands on both sides. Gonna be an event.

No way I'm getting it up on ramps either, even when it's at the max of these Billy's. But I'd like to know some published values of ride heights and I'm coming up empty for these cars.

Edit: Did some digging in newtis and found it

Your car is a sport so it should be 3/4" lower than base suspension. Sport and Msport are identical. I have actuals from my msport at home that I measured prior to switching to coil overs.

In my warped universe, I actually went to higher ride height as i was scraping front bumper at bottom of driveway. 1/4" increase fixed it.

[krashDH]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Your car is a sport so it should be 3/4" lower than base suspension. Sport and Msport are identical. I have actuals from my msport at home that I measured prior to switching to coil overs.

In my warped universe, I actually went to higher ride height as i was scraping front bumper at bottom of driveway. 1/4" increase fixed it.

This car has the B14 coilovers. Way too low for me.
Found the oem ride heights in newtis. Going to see if I can set them to the max height of the base package which should be the tallest (30mm lower, so basically a tad lower than stock sport height.

[MoreToolsthansense]

Having driven my 335D for about a year and a half, I still think about how much better it would be with a manual every time I put it in drive. I really want to convert mine as well but I'll have to drag myself away from 5 other projects first.

Lead the way friend!

[krashDH]

Well making progress on the car.

VCG is all replaced. I couldn't button up the top end (intake manifold) because I was shorted 1 swirl flap replacement o-ring gasket (5 of 6). So I'm waiting on that and I'm waiting on vac lines so I can replace the ones under the intake mani before I put it one.

I moved over to the turbo lines to start tearing that down. Got everything removed (including downpipe) so all I need to do now is crack the 2x bolts for the large turbo and get it out of the way.

My ATM intercooler I dropped as well, the 2 of the 4 o rings in the turbo side tube were split, made it a bear to get it off. So I need to wait for those as well.

It's unfortunate, I ordered the Whitbread lines almost 3 weeks ago. It's normally an off the shelf kit but apparently they haven't seen a fitting they need for the long line. So I'm stuck waiting on them too. I could have had this done this weekend and driving so I'm a bit frustrated with them because there's nothing on their site which mentioned not available or backordered.

It really hasn't been bad work, it's just moving a lot of stuff out of the way and figuring out how to get to places that weren't designed for access.

[krashDH]

ATM o-rings are on the way and I now have tracking for the Whitbread lines. One more thing I noticed that needs to be unbolted is the wastegate from the manifold since the rod is attached to the large turbo, it will need to move when the turbo is moved. I'm keeping the large turbo in place until the lines get here so that will wait too.

Shouldn't be too bad it's only 3 bolts. What's gonna be a real adventure is seeing if I can put everything together again and not having any leftover hardware

[maryjane]

Well just for future reference thats the changeover actuator. Wastegate is under neath just inside the downpipe.

[krashDH]

Originally Posted by maryjane

Well just for future reference thats the changeover actuator. Wastegate is under neath just inside the downpipe.

Sorry you're right. I'm was looking right at it on RealOEM and wrote the wrong thing. It's the actuator.

Anyway, got the hard y-pipe to the block off the bottom of the large turbo and it's on the bench. Turbo is the only thing left to move to get to the oil line.

[krashDH]

Whitbread lines were supposed to be delivered last Friday, but due to a colossal F ups (yes, multiple) by USPS they ended up in 2 different towns far away from me.

Here's to hoping they can get delivered today to me and I can be on the home stretch with this car.

[BB_cuda]

USPS should only be trusted to deliver junk mail.

[ptpending]

i know the pal who did a lot of the 335d swaps, they were manual in the beginning, but later he converted them to auto, all cars
the reason is very simple, there is no factory firmware for manual gearbox 335d
and without it the engine is expecting flash gear switching with very intensive clutch work, like a robot,
people who tried that could not resist that for daily driving, only for some drag races and funny coasting without traffic
so unless you are an assembly language hacker who can easily manipulate with all DDE internals, and capable to construct new firmware, it better to forget about manual 335d in e9x
another option is to buy 335d, order the older 330d+ gearbox swap from europe and put them in the car
then you will have EU 330d pre-lci with manual gearbox and everything will work as expected, because there is factory manual firmware for manual 330d

[krashDH]

Originally Posted by ptpending

i know the pal who did a lot of the 335d swaps, they were manual in the beginning, but later he converted them to auto, all cars
the reason is very simple, there is no factory firmware for manual gearbox 335d
and without it the engine is expecting flash gear switching with very intensive clutch work, like a robot,
people who tried that could not resist that for daily driving, only for some drag races and funny coasting without traffic
so unless you are an assembly language hacker who can easily manipulate with all DDE internals, and capable to construct new firmware, it better to forget about manual 335d in e9x
another option is to buy 335d, order the older 330d+ gearbox swap from europe and put them in the car
then you will have EU 330d pre-lci with manual gearbox and everything will work as expected, because there is factory manual firmware for manual 330d

I guess I'm not getting what you're saying here.
There are plenty that have done the swap. One I know of state side has over 80k miles on it and it's running fine. Yes, all of the parts would come from a European 330d, I mentioned this at the beginning.

Also people couldn't handle daily driving a manual in traffic? I guess that sounds more like a personal problem, I can drive a manual Cummins in stop and go traffic with a much heavier clutch and I don't mind it.

Why forget about it? It works, it's documented, there is a company who flashes the vehicle appropriately so that manual works fine. I'm not sure where you're getting your info?

On another note, top end is finally buttoned up. Hopefully I should be able to fire this thing up today

[krashDH]

I wanted to follow up and say the car is running beautifully now. It's all on the ground.
That all was quite the exercise for the first things to do to an engine I don't know yet. But, I'm pretty familiar now I suppose.

I did have a scare today. I used the ProTools app from Bimmergeeks to prime the fuel system. Even after priming twice for the 2 minute sessions, I still had to crank 3 times longer than I was comfortable with, but eventually it fired off.

I was also coding today for 30+ minutes with the software. Power on/off etc after the changes, multiple times as I'm still learning. Somewhere I missed that the car needs to be connected to a solid power source while doing this to keep the battery in top shape. It's a pretty new interstate battery. Ended up going out after just to play and start it up. Cranked once and it was dead.

Jumped it with the truck no issues, but from my further research and reaching out to people, that app and the vehicle running what it needs to during those sessions is a pretty decent power drain. I have software like that for my TDI but I've never had to keep it topped up like that. So, lesson learned I suppose, and hopefully I didn't do any damage to the battery.