[pmarlowe]

Hi All,

My 2007 328i has about 75K miles and I plan to keep it as long as I am able to work on it myself. So far, I've done an Oil Filter Housing gasket, Valve cover gasket, front, and rear brake rotors and pads, Vanos solenoids, ignition coils and spark plugs. Soon, I will be doing the engine and trans mounts (lots of vibration when stopped) and the starter motor (slow crank).

My ride quality is not as great as it used to be. I hear clunky noises from the rear when I go over potholes. The entire suspension system is basically untouched. I am planning to replace both front and rear shocks/struts with a Bilstein B4 kit. I'm just a normal about-to-be senior driver (LOL), grown quite fond of this car and my goal is to just keep the vehicle in the best possible condition for travel.

My first question is, while I'm doing all this work, what else should I do/check?

Secondly, does anyone have any feedback/suggestions regarding the shock/struts kit? This car doesn't have RFTs. Would it be better to consider Bilstein 6?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

[ppointer]

I’ve put B4’s on four cars recently: e90, e91, e92, and e60. So I am a big believer in them. Also used the FCP kits that have all of the pieces parts you would want replaced with new shocks and struts. Along with decent go flat tires, the results are always better than original, Imoh.

I did put a set of B6’s on our M roadster. I can tell the difference between the two models of shocks, but for daily around town cars I’m fine with the B4.

[Tambohamilton]

BMW performance springs, bilstein b6 or b8 or koni yellow shocks, M3 arms/bushings everywhere they're a direct fit.

[Mike K]

I vote for and have changed out to B4s along with non run flats and I’m very happy. 105k miles. 2011 328i e91

[StradaRedlands]

M3 kit for sure, great upgrade. Also consider doing the rear bushings... I'm getting the parts and motivation for that.

[Efthreeoh]

Before you make a decision on suspension components, based on the age of your car, definitely inspect the rear subframe for rust, especially on the left side (exhaust side). There have been numerous posts in the last year about deteroiated rear subframes. My 2006 has serious rust issues on the subframe.

That said, my advice is go with BMW OE parts.

[AllBlackBimmer]

B4 kit, if you have the stock sport suspension… I think b6 is what you want if not

Get sway bar end links as well

I did this and my car handles like new again

My control arms were still in good shape after 150k so no need to change… if I did I’d get m3 control arms
I reused my original springs as they were also in good shape. But check for any cracks or rusting and if any signs, replace them.

Enjoy the car for many more miles

[Boston4]

If the whole suspension is stock, I'd be surprised if your thrust arm bushings weren't toast by now. This manifested in a vibration while braking for me.

Suspension-wise, bushings are still good for me at just under 100k, and I just replaced the rear shocks with B4s.

[Leucosticte]

I redid my suspension a couple of weeks ago, I went with B4s front and rear and replaced the tension strut with an upgraded version. The rest of the front control arms were all OE along with new tie rods and end links.

It totally transformed the car, it feels amazing. Keep in mind this was on a car with 149k miles on it, I'm sure a 75k mile car will have less wear.

[whyzee125]

If you're not looking to go down the mod path, I'd probably get new front control arms (OE Lemforder), new upper shock and strut mounts, new bump stops and leave everything else alone.

[pmarlowe]

Thanks to everyone who responded. The responses have been very useful and hugely appreciated.

I am going to look into the additional items you all recommended, especially the bushings. I feel like 15 years is the time to replace them.

Also, the feedback on B4 has pretty much decided it - I will go with them.

[marvinstockman]

As the General said, check the hard parts on your suspension, before replacing anything, especially if the shocks and sturts are not leaking. The components are made to last a very, very long time!

Finally, and unless you're careful, the stuff you put in may be worse than what you take out.

[Leucosticte]

Originally Posted by marvinstockman

As the General said, check the hard parts on your suspension, before replacing anything, especially if the shocks and sturts are not leaking. The components are made to last a very, very long time!

Finally, and unless you're careful, the stuff you put in may be worse than what you take out.

Well, my front strut wasn't leaking but it was definitely super worn at 149k. They were barely able to support their own weight and rebound on their own. That being said OP's car is significantly lower mileage so his might still be fine.