[Canadian 335xi]

Catless DPs
DCI
JB4 ISO5

When I took the car to the test center I didn't really 'prep it' much, drove there on Map 0.

Map 0 failed and the OBDII port could not be connected to if the JB 4 was on any other map.

Misfire = Ready
Fuel System = Ready
Comprehensive Components = Ready
Catalyst = Not Ready
Heated Catalyst = Not Applicable
Evaporative System = Not Ready (This just confuses me, I didn't think it was related to the cat delete; possible real problem?)
Secondary Air = Not Applicable
Oxygen Sensor = Not Ready
Oxygen Sensor Heater = Not Ready
EGR System = Not Applicable
Air Conditioning System = Not Applicable

I've seen that Burger Motorsports no longer sells the DP FIX but there appears to be other solutions.

I've seen a DIY on making one (remove the spaces)
www.bim me rb oo st.com/show thread.php?53622-Make-your-own-oxygen-sensor-tuner

and I've seen a few for sale:

http://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-catless...bmw-335i.html?

and

http://www.x-ph.com/x-kitty-n54-downpipe-fix-dp-fix/


Is there anyone that can confirm any of these fixes work? Also, it would be nice to see an install guide on them. The DIY guide talks about install a little, but I'd like to know what's required before I buy.... it would seem it's almost the identical solution so I assume the installs will be very similar too?

[stimpy]

VR Speed still uses the old BMS doc for their DP Fix
http://www.scribd.com/mobile/doc/213384334#fullscreen

I'm still testing it to see if it actually works.

[SaviorXi]

I just passed my inspection last week in NJ. I have no cats (secondary cat delete). The thing that helped me pass the visual inspection was the vibrant resonators I had installed. When I drove over the mirrors the guys at the DMV thought they were cats. I purchased the wedge downpipe fix and set it to the 5oclock position, put my car into map 0 on my openflash tablet and followed the procedure to get my car readiness compliant. After 3 days I had my mechanic friend check with his snap on scanner and I was ready. I passed and 10 minutes later I had the DP fix out and everything back together with a 2 year inspection sticker freshly placed on my window.

Just a word of caution. My experienced mechanic friend installed mine and even though it is easy to get to the ECU with a DIY printout you should be very careful to remove and insert the correct pins and do not bend any. If you brick it or damage it (not sure that is even possible) it is a costly replacement. Nothing fits quite like stock parts and the female pins on the Wedge DP fix pushed in the male pins on my ecu so when I re installed the stock setup they were not making correct contact and I was getting 02 codes. We removed the ECU cover and sure enough the 4 pins were pushed in. We carefully (with the battery disconnected) used tweezers to slowly and carefully pull the pins back out so they were long enough to make contact. We then checked my 02 readings on the openflash and everything was ok. I was sweating bullets. Just be careful and never force anything. (count the pins and do 1 at a time) The directions suck but with patience and maybe an experienced friend you can get it done. It does work.

Originally Posted by stimpy

VR Speed still uses the old BMS doc for their DP Fix
http://www.scribd.com/mobile/doc/213384334#fullscreen

I'm still testing it to see if it actually works.

[GreaseMonkey]

You need to complete the proper drive cycle to get those system checks to complete. Your problem is not with the DP Fix. Start the car and idle for 2 minutes, drive 20-30 mph for 3 minutes, drive 40-59 mph for 15-20 minutes, pull over and idle in gear for 5 minutes.

That should have you covered for obd readiness. Do not rev higher than 3k rpm or exceed 60 mph while doing this.

[Eat.Sleep.Race]

Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey

You need to complete the proper drive cycle to get those system checks to complete. Your problem is not with the DP Fix. Start the car and idle for 2 minutes, drive 20-30 mph for 3 minutes, drive 40-59 mph for 15-20 minutes, pull over and idle in gear for 5 minutes.

That should have you covered for obd readiness. Do not rev higher than 3k rpm or exceed 60 mph while doing this.

Nice is this the proven way to pass w/o DP fix? I somehow passed with headers on my E46 M3 with no issues, by clearing codes, and driving a few miles at variable low speeds. Which i assume this is similar too!

[GreaseMonkey]

Originally Posted by Eat.Sleep.Race

Nice is this the proven way to pass w/o DP fix? I somehow passed with headers on my E46 M3 with no issues, by clearing codes, and driving a few miles at variable low speeds. Which i assume this is similar too!

Technically that is the procedure to follow with the DP fix installed. You have to do that since clearing trouble codes will reset those obd readiness checks.

HOWEVER, I just went through emissions earlier this month, and for weeks i was unable to get the DP fix to work right. I finally uninstalled it, cleared codes, did the drive cycle, and went for my emissions test. From the time I removed the DP fix until I went for testing I had roughly 60 miles on the car. I passed the test and showed full OBD readiness. The trick was to get to the testing center with the drive cycle completed, but not enough mileage for the car to trigger the catless codes.

[V8bait]

You need to do a proper drive cycle. PM if you can't figure it out... basically with a full tank and half tank of gas start car cold, let idle 2 minutes, drive 20 to 40 mph for 2 minutes not exceeding 3k rpm, drive 40 to 59mph the same way, with adequate coasting, and idle warm for 2 min before turning off.

Edit- what grease monkey said but I don't think you need 5 minutes of idling.

[Eat.Sleep.Race]

Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey

Technically that is the procedure to follow with the DP fix installed. You have to do that since clearing trouble codes will reset those obd readiness checks.

HOWEVER, I just went through emissions earlier this month, and for weeks i was unable to get the DP fix to work right. I finally uninstalled it, cleared codes, did the drive cycle, and went for my emissions test. From the time I removed the DP fix until I went for testing I had roughly 60 miles on the car. I passed the test and showed full OBD readiness. The trick was to get to the testing center with the drive cycle completed, but not enough mileage for the car to trigger the catless codes.

Would an 02' 325i have the same cycle you think? Got to get it pass its stock but 1 o2 sensor is popping a code and its not effecting drivability so would like it to just pass and get my tags renewed.

[roadkillrob]

Your JB4 would have had autoclear on which resets readiness, so you need to turn off autoclear on the JB4 so that you can do the drive cycle to get readiness. Technically you also need the DP Fix installed so the you don't get cat codes, but like someone else said, there is a small window where you will get readiness and not get a cat code for a bit - if you can get it inspected in that window, you can't get away without the DPFix.

[N54 TuNeR]

What about sitting in line at dmv with car idoling?would that be a issue.can you turn car off on when in line.sometimes those lines are long.would it stay in readiness the whole time.

[evoix]

Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey

You need to complete the proper drive cycle to get those system checks to complete. Your problem is not with the DP Fix. Start the car and idle for 2 minutes, drive 20-30 mph for 3 minutes, drive 40-59 mph for 15-20 minutes, pull over and idle in gear for 5 minutes.

That should have you covered for obd readiness. Do not rev higher than 3k rpm or exceed 60 mph while doing this.

EXACTLY ---you need to complete the drive cycle to set your monitors. Here in ny we are allowed to have 2 monitors not set. DO the drive cycle and check the monitors and you should be good to go.

[evoix]

Originally Posted by N54 TuNeR

What about sitting in line at dmv with car idoling?would that be a issue.can you turn car off on when in line.sometimes those lines are long.would it stay in readiness the whole time.

No every car has a cycle and the car has to be driven so the ecu can pick up settings. Idling alone wont set monitors.

[V8bait]

If you have autoclear on turn it off and get the backend flash that disables the code, I passed recently since we get one monitor allowed here

[Canadian 335xi]

Thanks for the help. I'm going to try this tomorrow. One question about the instructions -- with a manual transmission how do I "idle in gear"?

[V8bait]

When I was getting my car to have readiness I had to coast some both in and out of gear. Not sure which one it needed, but it worked. On a 6MT I think the trick is keeping RPM's down and trying to be gentle with the throttle, too much throttle variation will cancel the test. I also had to remove my lean cruise changes to get the O2 sensors into readiness. Well I don't know if I had to, but I did just in case, since O2 readiness is based on switching from lean/rich fast enough. If you have an INPA cable you can check your monitors with it before you go in for the test.

I also learned flashing new BIN's doesn't change the readiness, but any code clear does.

[GreaseMonkey]

I never bothered to coast, just jumped on the highway when traffic would be light enough to keep a steady pace. Just idle in neutral, or keep the clutch depressed for a few minutes if you're bored.

As others said, make sure auto clear is off. The whole process is easy, the Dp Fix made it a nightmare.

[roadkillrob]

Drive cycle - I followed this and got readiness last year.

http://www.europeantransmissions.com...0Procedure.pdf

[Canadian 335xi]

I'm going to try this 'drive cycle' thing. I'm in the process of buying an Innova 3100 so I can play around once I do the drive cycle(s) and check the readiness myself.... plus who doesn't want another gadget?

When I am driving around and turn off the auto-clear do I stay in Map 0? The problem in map 0 is my CEL comes on "randomly" (I haven't paid that much attention) but in anything other than map 0 the emissions software would not connect.

[V8bait]

Do you have the backend flash? Without it you will need the dpfix

[westchester335i]

Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey

I never bothered to coast, just jumped on the highway when traffic would be light enough to keep a steady pace. Just idle in neutral, or keep the clutch depressed for a few minutes if you're bored.

As others said, make sure auto clear is off. The whole process is easy, the Dp Fix made it a nightmare.

If I am following the posts correctly you can obtain OBD readiness by clearing the codes and doing the "procedure" WITHOUT DP fix ?

[Canadian 335xi]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

You can obtain readiness without a DP fix but you'll fail.

What would be the failure? Just when I thought I understood the waters are now muddy again.

Wìth a jb4 iso5 anf catless dps do I need other hardware, other software (the backend flash is unknown to me At this point)? I can understand that readiness and passing are different things, but there seems to be some confusion as to "passibility" now? Readiness that will fail is not my goal; goal is to pass emissions...

[shadow191]

EVAP failed because it takes a long time to hit readiness. Nothing to do with the cats, but I'm assuming you had autoclear on to keep from getting engine lights catless. That keeps your car in a perpetual state of not ready since every time it clears a code, your car would have to complete a drive cycle for all monitors to be ready. So if you just swapped to map 0, your monitors take time to be ready. The problem is that the EVAP usually won't hit readiness until the O2 and Catalyst monitors do. So if you're catless, you'll throw a check engine light before your EVAP ever shows ready. Unless you get DPFix of some kind.

And I think that the reason there are so many differing answers is that different states in the US and I assume provinces in Canada have different standards for passing. Some places allow 2 not ready monitors so you may be able to squeak by with a back end flash or some other trick. Some only allow 1 not ready and some won't allow any.

Originally Posted by Canadian 335xi

Catless DPs
DCI
JB4 ISO5

When I took the car to the test center I didn't really 'prep it' much, drove there on Map 0.


Misfire = Ready
Fuel System = Ready
Comprehensive Components = Ready
Catalyst = Not Ready
Heated Catalyst = Not Applicable
Evaporative System = Not Ready (This just confuses me, I didn't think it was related to the cat delete; possible real problem?)
Secondary Air = Not Applicable
Oxygen Sensor = Not Ready
Oxygen Sensor Heater = Not Ready
EGR System = Not Applicable
Air Conditioning System = Not Applicable