Front seats “shifting”

[Wanwansuii]

I am going to try this to see if it works. I will report back. Thanks!!

[Wanwansuii]

Tried the WD-40 trick and it works for now. I hope it lasts a few months. Thanks for this idea!

[Billyperks]

Exactly where did you lube?- I cant tell from the previous poster photos

[Wanwansuii]

The bushings underneath the seats. You have to recline the seat backward to see

[Billyperks]

Thank you- I will probably do tonight or tomorrow.

[Ort2020]

Genius tip!! Did this on the weekend as per previous direction and hey presto, problem solved! Don’t ask me how, whether the lubrications dampens the ‘clicking/shifting’ feeling, but it’s definitely solved it for now, thanks!!

[Chaos236]

I’m next, my 17 just started doing it...

[Chaos236]

Thanks, more detailed pics out there?

[Chaos236]

Thanks,got it

[LA640WS]

skibag is correct! Try dry lube from the Home Crepot! Less than $5.00

I sprayed the white plastic clips over 5 months ago, and the shifting stopped. Guessing those clips are there to flex a bit, but when the lube breaks down the shifting becomes more prominent

https://bit.ly/3JShU2L

[eugkim]

Works like a charm! Has been bothering me for months. Used WD40.

[FlyinLowSD]

Originally Posted by Opie55

^^ Agree. Lubricant will not solve a movement problem. It may muffle a sound for a while, but it will still move.

I beg to differ. Only in the case where something is catching versus sliding though.

[SaintCherry]

I had an annoying ‘clonk’ and knock from my seat (a 2016 640 convertible) which appeared a couple of years ago every time I went around a bend, drove me nuts. After reading various comments on forums I tried the simplest which was to grease the bushes as above. And, hey presto the problem goes away.
I think what happens is the little bit of movement that should be taken up by the seat moving easily, sometimes doesn’t when the bush dries out and it sticks and when it does move it makes a ‘clonk’ every time you take a bend.
The grease helps it move and now any movement is unnoticeable.

[SaintCherry]

Sorry to hijack a thread but I’ve got a problem I can’t sort at the moment and as a new member I can’t post.

I have a 2016 640d Convertible M Sport, and occasionally over the last couple of years the warning light has appeared on the dash saying the boot is open when it’s closed.
A few days ago this happened and I was unable to open the trunk/boot in any way - the key switch/foot well switch/boot lid badge switch did nothing and I was locked out of the boot! Also unable to move the roof.
Can anyone tell me how the car senses the boot lid is open?
Initially I guessed it was the two plungers on the lid (soft close) and depressing those told the car the lid was shut, but on looking around it appears the sensor might be in the boot lid catch mechanism itself.
Fortunately yesterday during a 50 mile drive the boot sensor decided it was closed again and then allowed me to open it, and now all is working again, but I know it’ll fail again before too lock. If the roof is open and won’t let me shut it that could be a nightmare.
Note. On my car it is impossible to access the inside of the boot from inside of the car, there is no valet parking switch that I can find, and inside the boot there is no emergency lever to open the boot manually, or no key mechanism to open the boot manually.
Anyone have any ideas?

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by SaintCherry

Sorry to hijack a thread but I’ve got a problem I can’t sort at the moment and as a new member I can’t post.

I have a 2016 640d Convertible M Sport, and occasionally over the last couple of years the warning light has appeared on the dash saying the boot is open when it’s closed.
A few days ago this happened and I was unable to open the trunk/boot in any way - the key switch/foot well switch/boot lid badge switch did nothing and I was locked out of the boot! Also unable to move the roof.
Can anyone tell me how the car senses the boot lid is open?
Initially I guessed it was the two plungers on the lid (soft close) and depressing those told the car the lid was shut, but on looking around it appears the sensor might be in the boot lid catch mechanism itself.
Fortunately yesterday during a 50 mile drive the boot sensor decided it was closed again and then allowed me to open it, and now all is working again, but I know it’ll fail again before too lock. If the roof is open and won’t let me shut it that could be a nightmare.
Note. On my car it is impossible to access the inside of the boot from inside of the car, there is no valet parking switch that I can find, and inside the boot there is no emergency lever to open the boot manually, or no key mechanism to open the boot manually.
Anyone have any ideas?

There are approx 3 modules that affect the central locking system. The CAS is the major module...but the FRM & JBE are also involved. The JBE (junction box electronics) power the drive for the trunk/boot...and they communicate over a bus line.

The info below is just some of the info I posted to a question on the f10/f11 forum a few days ago...here's a direct link to that thread if you want to see all of the info I posted about the central locking system: https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthr...8#post31158018

[SaintCherry]

Many thanks, useful information.

Do you think any of these modules might the cause of the problem?

There is clearly an error message getting back to the system that the boot is open when it isn’t?