[MontegoGoGoGo]

Curious how much everyone's garage ended up costing.
There will be no "do-it-yourself" involved.

I'm only looking for input from those who have nothing fancy, no "apartments" upstairs, no bathrooms or anything. Just a nice looking 2+ with electricity, maybe even no drywall. We are thinking 28 x 28, so anyone with this size, PLEASE share.

Please include:
1. Width and length/square footage
2. Total cost, parts and labor
3. How long it took to build
4. Issues with permits
5. PHOTOS!!!!! I know this is asking a lot, lol.

Doesn't have to be YOUR garage, can be parents, friends anyone, just as long as you know measurements and cost.

Thanks!

[FrankiE90]

Originally Posted by MontegoGoGoGo

Curious how much everyone's garage ended up costing.
There will be no "do-it-yourself" involved.

I'm only looking for input from those who have nothing fancy, no "apartments" upstairs, no bathrooms or anything. Just a nice looking 2+ with electricity, maybe even no drywall. We are thinking 28 x 28, so anyone with this size, PLEASE share.

Please include:
1. Width and length/square footage
2. Total cost, parts and labor
3. How long it took to build
4. Issues with permits
5. PHOTOS!!!!! I know this is asking a lot, lol.

Doesn't have to be YOUR garage, can be parents, friends anyone, just as long as you know measurements and cost.

Thanks!

wow.
try'n to get an idea before contacting an independent contractor?
it varies from city to city, i would think.
sorry no personal experience , my house came with a garage already.

but the wife and I added a second unit to the back of the house 650sqft,
1 bedroom, bath, kitchen. 12grand+ and that's with bro-in law being a contractor, not even done with the stucco and final inspection.

with permits - well u need to get plans made up, then submitted to the city for approval, once approved which they will have corrections then u pay
for permits. it's a process. Try asking ur neighbors that just renovated and
get info. Then get a few estimates from contractors and make decision.

good luck, u'll soon have a nice garage.
if not home depot, poles and blue tarp.

[Bulldog 6]

In Richmond, VA about 18K-20K from the ground up. You may be better off with a pre-fab (concret pad and drop), those run about 10K-12K.

[chrisdridley]

A few other things to look into.
Zoning.....if you live in any kind of incorporated city, you are going to have to abide by set-back requirements and sq footage requirements per the size of the property.
Fire code....you mentioned no sheet rock.....because it's a garage, some places make you fire rate the garage. That means fire rated plywood ( very expensive ) and heavy sheet rock.
City/Neighborhood covenants and restrictions.......will the homeowners association, if you have one, allow you to build a garage? If so, are there architectural requirements?
A bare minimum of $30 per foot, if you have a someone draw the plans for nothing, very low permit costs in your area, bare floors, no-frills garage doors,unfinished interior walls, no insulation, and a couple of hanging shop lights.
However much you think it is going to cost when you start, be prepared for 50% more by the time it is finished.

[MontegoGoGoGo]

Thanks for the advice so far!

What happened is, the house we bought is almost 80 years old (I hate new construction and love the charm of old houses), and the people who owned it before us updated the entire thing on the interior and exterior like CRAZY. New everything, kitchen, pipes, roof, electric, all of it, BUT my guess is that they divorced before they got to the outside.

There is a lot of landscaping to be done. The garage, if you want to call it that, is a one-car and basically a shed in my opinion! So we are going to actually keep it there, reconstruct it and use it as a utility shed. Then build a new garage in a new spot and break up the old driveway (that leads to the "shed") and put sod down.

Whew, lots of work. Probably won't start until spring.

I have never been in the position of building a garage or addition, so have no CLUE as to even a ballpark figure.

Anyone else? Thanks again!

[mercury26]

I recommend speaking with TuffShed, if they are in your area. I had them install a Shed, very nice construction and work. They also do garages and they prices are very reasonable. I believe when I got a quote, they said quoted 2-3 days to get it installed (NOT including the concrete slab/foundation).

Also, you can get a rough price estimate on their webpage (www.tuffshed.com). I have been looking at either a 20x24 or 24x24 garage. Though I am going to do all the electrics, plumbing and drywall myself, but that's how I roll.

Cheers,

Chuck

[ToadHollow]

Originally Posted by MontegoGoGoGo

Thanks for the advice so far!

What happened is, the house we bought is almost 80 years old (I hate new construction and love the charm of old houses), and the people who owned it before us updated the entire thing on the interior and exterior like CRAZY. New everything, kitchen, pipes, roof, electric, all of it, BUT my guess is that they divorced before they got to the outside.

There is a lot of landscaping to be done. The garage, if you want to call it that, is a one-car and basically a shed in my opinion! So we are going to actually keep it there, reconstruct it and use it as a utility shed. Then build a new garage in a new spot and break up the old driveway (that leads to the "shed") and put sod down.

Whew, lots of work. Probably won't start until spring.

I have never been in the position of building a garage or addition, so have no CLUE as to even a ballpark figure.

Anyone else? Thanks again!

Is your home in a historical district? 80 years old would qualify ........ if so, you're extremely limited with what you're able to do with new construction etc.

[TurboFan]

Where? Florida or Missouri? Building codes vary, as do specific location requirements.

If it's detached from the house, you may not need to sheet rock the garage. If it's attached, basic code requires sheet rock and fire tape. Don't need a level 4 finish or anything, just mud and tape the joints so a fire does not spread to the house. Detached is easier.

Concrete slab, should be about $6/sqft for a driveway. A little more for a parking slab. 28x28 framing, NO sheetrock, slab, garage door and electric, vinyl siding, 40 year asphalt / fiberglass shingle , I would probably quote you about $15,000 if you lived in my town. Add 10% if there are hurricane requirements or other special city requirements. This assumes no grading of the property is required.

I'm a general contractor / home builder. That price includes architectural drawings for permit, the permit itself, inspections, etc.

Some advice for dealing with a contractor:
1. Always have a written contract that covers EVERYTHING.
2. See #1.
3. Get a copy of their license, and verify it with the state.
4. Get a copy of their insurance, and verify it with the agent.
5. EVERYTHING in writing.
6. Insist on notarized lien waivers before paying any bill.
7. Insist on knowing who the subs are, and make sure you get their lien waivers as well.
8. Cheapest bid is rarely the cheapest build. Go through the bid with the contractor and make sure EVERYTHING you want is in their bid, in writing. If its not, make them re-write it and re-submit. Many contractors bid low and then try to make money on change orders.

A good contractor won't even hesitate to send you this information. I provide it with my bids. A good contractor will also provide everything in writing, as it protects both of you and makes the project much more easy for everyone.

[Spoolin335]

i was going to say closer to 20K or more for a complete garage/pad

[wrickem]

When we bought this house, the backyard was a mud hole. I needed a quick garage and since the very old house needed so much other work, we didn't have time to build one. We took the quick route...an Amish prebuilt one. Anywhere you see their prebuilt sheds, they usually have garages too.

It came complete on a truck, $5200 with a couple of "upgrades" (they consider vents upgrades), then we built a quick carport on the side for $800 in materials. It's 29' long and I don't remember how wide it is. It came in a lot of styles, but this was the one that suited this property the best. It sits on top of a 8" cement slab which was another $400.

But it was quick and easy, under $6500 and it keeps the rain off of 2 cars. We had so many other permits going at the time, I don't think we even got one for the garage.

[BK]

Wow, you guys got off easy. We are currently in the midst of some significant remodel projects and were thinking of adding a garage, too, but it is just too much combined with everything else. Current disruption is bad enough. Maybe next year. I was thinking in the neighborhood of $25K and figuring that was pretty inexpensive. If I could get away with less than that, I'd be psyched.

[redfred18t]

It can run from 20-40 grand depending on the materials you use, the type you're building, and most importantly your location. Just get a number of quotes from local contractors. And remember, cheaper is not always better.

[ianbiz]

this belongs in OT

[ptack]

If you're house also runs on the small side, you may want to think about the opportunity to include extra storage space in this. It's relatively cheap square footage to build so while you're at it, strongly consider making it bigger than you might immediately need. You'll just kick yourself later if you make it as small as possible just to save a couple thousand bucks.

[Nikolas]

Regarding fire rating, the only place that you need to install 5/8" type x drywall is at any location adjoing the home. So if it is attached to a structure on one side, only that side needs the sheet rock. If the garage is completely detached you do not need any sheetrock unless it is required by a local ordinance.

Costs as mentioned can vary hugely depending on local conditions, design and materials used. Generally it will cost you more than you anticipate.

I'm an architect and have designed many homes with garages varying greatly in cost. For a bare bones garage I would budget $40/sf. I'm working on a 5 bay garage with individual carriage doors, epoxy floors, stone siding etc. It is probably costing around $150/sf. I live in an area that is more remote, has high snow loads and people that have expensive tastes though, so the higher number is pretty atypical.

Good luck and remember the most important aspect to a successful project is having a good plan before you start. Check with some of your local architects. Generally the value you gain in the final product more than pays for their fees.

[MontegoGoGoGo]

Thank you all so much for the great advice. City of Ladue is already being jerkblossoms about set-backs. Blah! Thanks again!

[Zephyr15]

Originally Posted by TurboFan

Where? Florida or Missouri? Building codes vary, as do specific location requirements.

If it's detached from the house, you may not need to sheet rock the garage. If it's attached, basic code requires sheet rock and fire tape. Don't need a level 4 finish or anything, just mud and tape the joints so a fire does not spread to the house. Detached is easier.

Concrete slab, should be about $6/sqft for a driveway. A little more for a parking slab. 28x28 framing, NO sheetrock, slab, garage door and electric, vinyl siding, 40 year asphalt / fiberglass shingle , I would probably quote you about $15,000 if you lived in my town. Add 10% if there are hurricane requirements or other special city requirements. This assumes no grading of the property is required.

I'm a general contractor / home builder. That price includes architectural drawings for permit, the permit itself, inspections, etc.

Some advice for dealing with a contractor:
1. Always have a written contract that covers EVERYTHING.
2. See #1.
3. Get a copy of their license, and verify it with the state.
4. Get a copy of their insurance, and verify it with the agent.
5. EVERYTHING in writing.
6. Insist on notarized lien waivers before paying any bill.
7. Insist on knowing who the subs are, and make sure you get their lien waivers as well.
8. Cheapest bid is rarely the cheapest build. Go through the bid with the contractor and make sure EVERYTHING you want is in their bid, in writing. If its not, make them re-write it and re-submit. Many contractors bid low and then try to make money on change orders.

A good contractor won't even hesitate to send you this information. I provide it with my bids. A good contractor will also provide everything in writing, as it protects both of you and makes the project much more easy for everyone.

Great advice here (and bonus points for coming from a contractor). The OP and others should pay attention to your list, particularly #6 and #7.

[Cookiemonster]

Pay an Architect 1500 to 2000. This will be your best bet.

1. Will match the garage to your existing house with same details, match roof
pitches and it will look like it was meant to be next to your house.

2. The Architect will provide you with preliminary drawings. These will have the floor plan and all elevations. These will be used to go in front of the planning board and to submit to zoning if you need to for your town. This is good because usually only part of the fee (1500 to 2000) will be due...so if you get rejected big time your only out part of the fee.

3. Once approved by the town you can get working drawings and the advantage of this is ALL contractors bidding are bidding on the same exact thing. Same materials ...same everything. Really the only way to compare apples to apples. If you sent out for 5 bids...no doubt the price difference could be as much as 33% and the savings will pay for the Architects fee several times over. Also if during construction you have a problem or concern you have a professional to call and answer you questions.....unbiased answers.

[BK]

+1 on paying for plans from an architect initially, then having contractors bid. That's what we did for our current renovation, and it has turned out to be an excellent way to go.

Also, to follow up on my post above, a few days ago I found out the cost of building one onto my home and it is prohibitively expensive. We were thinking of putting it underneath a deck off the back, and doing so would require building down, meaning significant excavation, a sump system, retaining wall, etc. I'd be looking at $80K minimum for something like that. So unfortunately, it's not worth it for my home, given that it won't add nearly that much value. Obviously, depending on your home and what you're looking for, the cost can vary quite a bit!

[wrickem]

[QUOTE=BK;6444947 I'd be looking at $80K minimum for something like that. So unfortunately, it's not worth it for my home, given that it won't add nearly that much value. Obviously, depending on your home and what you're looking for, the cost can vary quite a bit![/QUOTE]

WOW BK! Makes me feel even luckier that I got off so cheap for something that fits in with my property so well. Hopefully, your next house will come will come with one already!

[MontegoGoGoGo]

Anyone ever buy plans online that have a materials list with it?
You can basically pick out the style, color, doors, etc. and get the plans for under $200.

I know some will say if you're gonna spend 20k on the garage, pay the 2k for the plans, but, just sayin'

[Nikolas]

Originally Posted by MontegoGoGoGo

Anyone ever buy plans online that have a materials list with it?
You can basically pick out the style, color, doors, etc. and get the plans for under $200.

I know some will say if you're gonna spend 20k on the garage, pay the 2k for the plans, but, just sayin'

There are many reasons not to buy standardized plans. If you don't really care how it integrates with the home, then it probably will work for you. You will still need to have someone provide a site plan that integrates the design onto your site and they also need to be modified to address local ordinances and codes.

It is another example of "you get what you pay for".

As an Architect, I am biased, but the reality is a good quality design will more than pay for itself in the long run. Research the Architect as well with the State Licensing Board and local AIA chapter if they are a member.