[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by justpete

I think it's the stiffness of the bar causing the inside wheel to get light enough to allow the outside wheel to break it free regardless of the LSD since one wheel's essentially off the ground and torque's gonna get steered to the wheel just waiting to break the other one loose.

Agreed.

And see this is where I think that a clutch type gives you a fair bit more "whoops" room because with the inside wheel getting light on a helical, you get the effect of sudden drive loss, which I think exacerbates the spring energy storage issue as rearward weight loading goes away too.

But, switching to a lighter bar was a cheaper and faster option for me than converting to a Giken Although if I keep tracking this car I probably will end up doing that anyway...

How's your ride coming along? Happy with the HVTs?

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Agreed.

And see this is where I think that a clutch type gives you a fair bit more "whoops" room because with the inside wheel getting light on a helical, you get the effect of sudden drive loss, which I think exacerbates the spring energy storage issue as rearward weight loading goes away too.

But, switching to a lighter bar was a cheaper and faster option for me than converting to a Giken Although if I keep tracking this car I probably will end up doing that anyway...

How's your ride coming along? Happy with the HVTs?

Oh yeah, forgot about that transient open diff-like condition with helicals and that would make for an abrupt transition, yow. A lighter bar would be cheaper than a Giken, yep.

Coming along, setting up for another round of mods including a race engine build. And yep, still happy with the HVTs, can't complain. Never did switch back to the winter tires, been running the R1Rs with track alignment since summer. Measuring front and rear track this evening while thinking of increasing the rear spacer thickness I noticed the inside of the rear tires are, um, badly worn. Heavy camber and excess toe-in, who'd'a'thunkit? Got about 7K miles out of them though, not bad really.

Next up is weight reduction, instrumentation, chassis stiffening, radiator w/oil cooler, diff cooler, Accusump, race exhaust, race engine build, creditcardidcide, the usual...dangit... I swear some days I think crack would be less addictive.

So how're the JRZs holding up? Still good to go for daily driving comfort?

[ashmostro]

I think it's badass that you daily that beast - kudos to you man.

I'm surprised the inside of your tires are worn. What's your camber setting? I've got 2.7 / 1.5 and the outsides of my tires are still slightly more worn than the inside. Maybe your toe is off?

You have spherical everything right? Isn't that punishing every day? My JRZ's still feel great though I'm thinking of lower the damping a bit for winter. Also getting an on and off clunking noise up front that no shop (or I) has been able to diagnose yet but I've been frequenting a new place that I think might be able to track it down. I'm thinking either worn camber plates, endlinks, or a loose mounting bracket.

Are you not running any oil cooler setup? I guess it's less important on an NA motor. I need to do an oil baffle pan at the very least - doubt I will go nuts with a dry sump setup like you.

Creditcardicide- love it.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

I think it's badass that you daily that beast - kudos to you man.

Thanks but I'm pretty sure it's just cuz I haven't the sense to do otherwise. ha.

Originally Posted by ashmostro

I'm surprised the inside of your tires are worn. What's your camber setting? I've got 2.7 / 1.5 and the outsides of my tires are still slightly more worn than the inside. Maybe your toe is off?

-3.8* front, -2.6* rear, -1/16" toe front, +1/16" toe rear, front caster is 7* (soon to be adjusted to max positive), and rear caster is stock although Megan wishbones are in so we can adjust it to null bump toe.

I just ordered a set of Longacre Deluxe Toe-in Plates cuz breaking out the SmartStrings is such a pita. Had the shop grind away the inside of the front strut tower sheet metal collar so the camber plates could symmetrically swing to the inside regardless of the nut rotation on the shaft. And I've followed the witness marks changing the setup so no telling how off they could be. That and abusing the tires hasn't really helped I guess. Bet something's off though.

Originally Posted by ashmostro

You have spherical everything right? Isn't that punishing every day?

Yep, all spherical. Doesn't bother me, don't really notice it. OTOH, I was testing a new mic with the camera for trackdays and I noticed the car really shakes me around on the road which is odd cuz I don't remember it really. Sometimes it's intrusive and I guarantee passengers notice it no matter how careful I am but still I don't have a problem with it. Would be a softer ride on the Pirelli RFTs since the sidewalls on the R1Rs are wayyyy stiffer than the ones on the P-Zeros.

Originally Posted by ashmostro

My JRZ's still feel great though I'm thinking of lower the damping a bit for winter. Also getting an on and off clunking noise up front that no shop (or I) has been able to diagnose yet but I've been frequenting a new place that I think might be able to track it down. I'm thinking either worn camber plates, endlinks, or a loose mounting bracket.

Yeah, lower damping might be a good thing for winter driving, I should probably do the same for the harsher ride that comes with colder temps but winter's so short here by the time I remember to do it, it's spring.

I have a clunking from time to time that sounds really disturbing but can't track it down either. It's the same as when the camber plates were first installed a couple of years ago. I took it back to the shop and they did something that made it go away until this fall. I checked torque on the upper strut mounts and the ones at the rear of the three needed torquing. The sound diminished but didn't go away immediately. Next time I drove it, no noise, but it came back in the middle of a parking lot after hitting a speed bump a little too hard. Still stumped. Starting to suspect it's the XP10 pads banging around, the rear ones sure do. Still a real mystery, lemme know what you find out if you don't mind.

One other thing might be the M3 strut tower brace at the firewall, haven't checked it yet. I keep meaning to pull the cowl and the engine cover to check as well as to get rid of the engine cover and maybe most if not all of the cowl but it's one of those things on the list. Hopefully the problem isn't one, hard to say. The clutch makes enough scary sounds that ranking the sounds and clunks is kinda difficult sometimes.

[edit]D'Oh! endlinks. Good point, will have to check. They're Turner adjustable parts. Might have worked loose, good catch, thanks![/edit]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Are you not running any oil cooler setup? I guess it's less important on an NA motor. I need to do an oil baffle pan at the very least - doubt I will go nuts with a dry sump setup like you.

Nothing beyond the stock oil/coolant exchanger in the block. With the increase in horsepower we're shooting for it's a good idea now. Having a custom drop-in C&R radiator made with a built-in counterflow oil cooler. An N54 oil filter cover will be fitted with Mishimoto -AN fitting adaptor to allow for flex lines to the cooler. Custom silicone radiator hoses are on order as well. Looking at fitting an N54 water pump as well since we're going to Evans NPG coolant along with custom made NGK "8" temperature plugs. Also adding an N54 oil pan baffle from VAC. Not going to go with a dry sump if I can avoid it. Would like to but the cost is crazy. The list of mods takes three pages to list, yikes.

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Creditcardicide- love it.

Heh. Luckily it's not a statutory infraction. But it oughta be.

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by justpete

Nothing beyond the stock oil/coolant exchanger in the block. With the increase in horsepower we're shooting for it's a good idea now. Having a custom drop-in C&R radiator made with a built-in counterflow oil cooler. An N54 oil filter cover will be fitted with Mishimoto -AN fitting adaptor to allow for flex lines to the cooler.

Is the adapter the type that plugs into the bottom of the stock thermostat cover? The kind that slides in from the bottom and is secured by one bolt? I know that's a bad description but I ask because that design is notorious for leaking - it ended up on my ride which is why I switched to Rob Beck's thermostat delete plate and an external improved racing thermostat. Also running braided AN lines which I feel much more confident in now. I know you dont have an N54 so I'm not sure if what I'm saying even applies to you, but just in case it does...

And yes, will let you know if I track down my front end clunk! Funny thing is, the car doesn't handle oddly at all. There's just that skeery noise.

PS, I have camber envy

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Is the adapter the type that plugs into the bottom of the stock thermostat cover? The kind that slides in from the bottom and is secured by one bolt? I know that's a bad description but I ask because that design is notorious for leaking - it ended up on my ride which is why I switched to Rob Beck's thermostat delete plate and an external improved racing thermostat. Also running braided AN lines which I feel much more confident in now. I know you dont have an N54 so I'm not sure if what I'm saying even applies to you, but just in case it does...

And yes, will let you know if I track down my front end clunk! Funny thing is, the car doesn't handle oddly at all. There's just that skeery noise.

PS, I have camber envy

Yep, that's the one. It was cheap so I wouldn't mind tossing it if it's going to be a problem. Got a link to the alternative? I would prefer an external racing thermostat anyway but this seemed fairly safe for a first step. Then again, why waste time and money on first steps if they suck?

It's an N52 but we'll be going past 300hp so a lot of what the N54 uses is going to be handy. Waterless coolant will make it run a bit hotter but the two step colder plugs and the inability to boil coolant near the exhaust valve/tract will allow us to safely run leaner for higher top end power, theoretically. I mean it depends on what the AFR is now and how close it is to max EGT as we move off of it in the right direction. And yeah, we'll have -An stainless braided lines for the oil cooler using BMRS fittings and line, same for the diff cooler.

Yeah, I don't have any handling issues or braking problems, just that scary noise that you can feel too as if something's hitting the firewall but I know it's not. OK, I hope it's not. eeeeep.

Camber envy...heh. But it comes with shredded tire syndrome (STS) which kinda sucks.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by justpete

Yep, that's the one. It was cheap so I wouldn't mind tossing it if it's going to be a problem. Got a link to the alternative? I would prefer an external racing thermostat anyway but this seemed fairly safe for a first step. Then again, why waste time and money on first steps if they suck?

It's an N52 but we'll be going past 300hp so a lot of what the N54 uses is going to be handy. Waterless coolant will make it run a bit hotter but the two step colder plugs and the inability to boil coolant near the exhaust valve/tract will allow us to safely run leaner for higher top end power, theoretically. I mean it depends on what the AFR is now and how close it is to max EGT as we move off of it in the right direction. And yeah, we'll have -An stainless braided lines for the oil cooler using BMRS fittings and line, same for the diff cooler.

Yeah, I don't have any handling issues or braking problems, just that scary noise that you can feel too as if something's hitting the firewall but I know it's not. OK, I hope it's not. eeeeep.

Camber envy...heh. But it comes with shredded tire syndrome (STS) which kinda sucks.

Are you maxed out on your plates?

I'm at -3.6* with just camber plates (no M3 Arms) with justttt enough room to adjust rebound.

Interesting you guys think you need less bar, I think I needed more. So I run a 19mm rear bar. Still need a diff though.

Here is the rear lifting the tire though, so we aren't all going crazy



I'm at -3.6* at 0 Toe and 8* of Caster.
-2* Rear at 14 Minutes of Toe

As far as the clunking, check endlinks. I have the same noise and I'm fairly positive I destroyed mine.



Also, as far as the car getting loose in the rear, you need to soften the rebound and/or decrease bump (if you have that adjustment)

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by justpete

Yep, that's the one. It was cheap so I wouldn't mind tossing it if it's going to be a problem. Got a link to the alternative? I would prefer an external racing thermostat anyway but this seemed fairly safe for a first step. Then again, why waste time and money on first steps if they suck?

It's an N52 but we'll be going past 300hp so a lot of what the N54 uses is going to be handy. Waterless coolant will make it run a bit hotter but the two step colder plugs and the inability to boil coolant near the exhaust valve/tract will allow us to safely run leaner for higher top end power, theoretically. I mean it depends on what the AFR is now and how close it is to max EGT as we move off of it in the right direction. And yeah, we'll have -An stainless braided lines for the oil cooler using BMRS fittings and line, same for the diff cooler.

Yeah, I don't have any handling issues or braking problems, just that scary noise that you can feel too as if something's hitting the firewall but I know it's not. OK, I hope it's not. eeeeep.

Camber envy...heh. But it comes with shredded tire syndrome (STS) which kinda sucks.

Here are the big parts I used for the upgraded oil cooler fittings install - note this is before I switched to proper braided lines and fittings and was still using push-loc hose which is fine in a pinch but lacks the longevity desired in a DD.

thermostat: http://www.improvedracing.com/thermo...15f-p-434.html

thermo delete plate: http://www.rbturbo.com/products/accessories/rbocdelete

AN adapters for -10 lines into delete plate: http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/9919FFK/10002/-1



What's your strategy for getting to those power leves with the N52? Sounds like it will be a screamer!!

And what's your braking setup, out of curiosity?

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

As far as the clunking, check endlinks. I have the same noise and I'm fairly positive I destroyed mine.



Also, as far as the car getting loose in the rear, you need to soften the rebound and/or decrease bump (if you have that adjustment)

Agreed on both accounts. I do think my rebound was too high for those conditions.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

Are you maxed out on your plates?

I'm at -3.6* with just camber plates (no M3 Arms) with justttt enough room to adjust rebound.

Yep, plates are all the way inboard.

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

Interesting you guys think you need less bar, I think I needed more. So I run a 19mm rear bar. Still need a diff though.

Here is the rear lifting the tire though, so we aren't all going crazy

Racecars run either without a rear bar or with a very weak one to keep the rear tires on the track at all times for maximum traction. They make up for it with stiffer settings on the dampers and optimized spring rates. And increasing track width as far as the rules will allow, that helps a lot too. The problem for most is that stiffer dampers means a far harsher ride a stiffer rear ARB would other otherwise mitigate. I'll take the harsh ride to maximize traction. But, um, I'm nutz. Have I mentioned that before?

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

I'm at -3.6* at 0 Toe and 8* of Caster.
-2* Rear at 14 Minutes of Toe

Sounds reasonable. I'm going to maximum caster next which will change static camber and toe I think. Looks like I'll get about 7K miles of tire life running the track settings all the time though. I really like the toe-out in front and heavy toe-in in the rear.

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

As far as the clunking, check endlinks. I have the same noise and I'm fairly positive I destroyed mine.

Yeah I'm beginning to think they're consumable items at this point.

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

Also, as far as the car getting loose in the rear, you need to soften the rebound and/or decrease bump (if you have that adjustment)

Yes, I have those adjustments but they mask the problem with the rear bar I think. That's why I'm going to experiment with the rear bar disconnected and see how it runs on the street although the dampers will have to be readjusted to compensate. Might be just too far over the line to deal with, dunno.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by justpete

Yep, plates are all the way inboard.



Racecars run either without a rear bar or with a very weak one to keep the rear tires on the track at all times for maximum traction. They make up for it with stiffer settings on the dampers and optimized spring rates. And increasing track width as far as the rules will allow, that helps a lot too. The problem for most is that stiffer dampers means a far harsher ride a stiffer rear ARB would other otherwise mitigate. I'll take the harsh ride to maximize traction. But, um, I'm nutz. Have I mentioned that before?



Sounds reasonable. I'm going to maximum caster next which will change static camber and toe I think. Looks like I'll get about 7K miles of tire life running the track settings all the time though. I really like the toe-out in front and heavy toe-in in the rear.



Yeah I'm beginning to think they're consumable items at this point.



Yes, I have those adjustments but they mask the problem with the rear bar I think. That's why I'm going to experiment with the rear bar disconnected and see how it runs on the street although the dampers will have to be readjusted to compensate. Might be just too far over the line to deal with, dunno.

The thing is, autocross setup =/= track...most of the time.

BMW Gods believe you should run no rear bar. However I've never came to that conclusion yet. To get rotation on my car at least, I needed a bar. With my stock 12mm or whatever small bar I had, the car pushed like a pig.

MY philosophy with a bar, is that you want rear traction available at all times, however for the split second you need to disrupt it to get the car to rotate.

I'm already running #700 rear springs, I tried to walk around the issue with full bump and high rebound but I disrupted the car in basically every other single aspect of the course. It wasn't worth it. So I threw a bar on and have seem positive results that outweighed the negative I can drive around

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Here are the big parts I used for the upgraded oil cooler fittings install - note this is before I switched to proper braided lines and fittings and was still using push-loc hose which is fine in a pinch but lacks the longevity desired in a DD.

thermostat: http://www.improvedracing.com/thermo...15f-p-434.html

thermo delete plate: http://www.rbturbo.com/products/accessories/rbocdelete

Cool! Thanks, I'm looking into them now. Also been trying to find an equivalent to or a way to modify this to work: http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-...ing-p1417.aspx

Originally Posted by ashmostro

AN adapters for -10 lines into delete plate: http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/9919FFK/10002/-1

The shop uses BMRS fittings and lines so this is covered, expensive but covered. They'll use BMRS on the diff cooler as well.

Originally Posted by ashmostro

What's your strategy for getting to those power leves with the N52? Sounds like it will be a screamer!!

11.5:1 CR (for 100 octane) with custom pistons (higher valve lift clearance) and skimmed head, stainless hollow stem race valves and HD springs, high lift street/track cams, port and polish, three angle grind, unshroud, balance valve train, custom NGK "8" plugs, blueprint and balance bottom end, deck if needed, knife edge crank if needed, "loose" race rod and main bearings, and machining to accommodate ARP rod and main and head hardware. Basically a complete race rebuild. Will be painting the engine compartment and the inside of the new CF hood gloss white while the engine's out. Not that it increases power but it does look cool and that's gotta be worth ten horse, right?

Originally Posted by ashmostro

And what's your braking setup, out of curiosity?

135i front calipers with Stoptech pistons, seals, and boots, Hard Brake 0.5mm titanium shims, XP10 pads, Stoptech lines (Bimmerworld lines in house now but haven't decided to install yet), stock rear calipers but with Bimmerworld solid guide pin bushings, and XP10 pads - with Torque RT700 fluid. Stops like crazy without fade. Car's curb weight is currently about 3260 lbs, headed toward 3000lbs unladen, or another three hundred less. Whee!

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

The thing is, autocross setup =/= track...most of the time.

Yep, that's true. I don't know how one goes about building a car that's good for both, has to be a compromise. Haven't ever run an AX since my clutch would pretty much make that impossible...

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

BMW Gods believe you should run no rear bar. However I've never came to that conclusion yet. To get rotation on my car at least, I needed a bar. With my stock 12mm or whatever small bar I had, the car pushed like a pig.

Huh, something's not set up quite right I guess as I can rotate this car even with the LSD. Isn't easy but it's doable. And it doesn't push anymore either.

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

MY philosophy with a bar, is that you want rear traction available at all times, however for the split second you need to disrupt it to get the car to rotate.

Or you just have to abuse the crap out of it, maybe it's the snap steering that helps along with the all spherical chassis, dunno.

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

I'm already running #700 rear springs, I tried to walk around the issue with full bump and high rebound but I disrupted the car in basically every other single aspect of the course. It wasn't worth it. So I threw a bar on and have seem positive results that outweighed the negative I can drive around

There's a nasty bump just past the apex of a turn on the MSR Cresson 1.7mi CW course that disrupts bimmers like there's no tomorrow. Seen M3s spin like sumbitches trying to traction their way off the apex, seen an M5 spin and hop like it was possessed, but I hit it every time just for fun and without the slightest disruption, just a bit of a jar and on we go, flat out. It's a fun turn. It's said Porsches rock the same turn in the same way so there must be something to the "race" setup on my car that's unlike most other bimmers at the DEs as all others do their damnedest to avoid that bump.

I don't know what the spring rates are but I should check just to have the info. I let the race team and HVT set up the suspension for neutral handling and haven't had a gripe with it yet. So being as ignorant of the actual chassis dynamics as I am I'm afraid I can't offer anything concrete but it sounds like you've got it as nailed as possible. You could play a bit with tire pressures though to offset pushing with a lighter bar, maybe, possibly, could be, or not, just a thought. Would be interested in hearing what you've done with tire pressures wrt AX as I understand it's kinda tricky with so little time to get the temps up.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

The thing is, autocross setup =/= track...most of the time.

BMW Gods believe you should run no rear bar. However I've never came to that conclusion yet. To get rotation on my car at least, I needed a bar. With my stock 12mm or whatever small bar I had, the car pushed like a pig.

MY philosophy with a bar, is that you want rear traction available at all times, however for the split second you need to disrupt it to get the car to rotate.

I'm already running #700 rear springs, I tried to walk around the issue with full bump and high rebound but I disrupted the car in basically every other single aspect of the course. It wasn't worth it. So I threw a bar on and have seem positive results that outweighed the negative I can drive around

Here's a bit more information. If the rear track width is wider than the front it's likely that understeer will be difficult to null without mucking about with the roll rates. It's common to have a wider front track than rear track in most race cars as this aids in making it somewhat easier to achieve neutral handling without having to add rear bar. From measuring the track on my car since I've been curious as to why they used 5mm spacers in the back with 12mm in front I find the front track is indeed slightly wider than the rear when taking the camber angles into account. So it's square and without stagger but with a slight reverse stagger, if you will. Which might help explain why it's easier than you'd think to rotate the car although it does take some effort and really only in extremes. So you might consider attempting something similar since it's so easy to do with different spacer thicknesses. Worth a shot anyway. Small changes aren't all that obvious but I suspect squaring the tracks might be at the extremes required in AX. Cheap fix if true. FWIW. Here's a headache inducing thread discussing the issue - http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=165852

[ashmostro]

that's a great thread - thanks for posting that up pete

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by justpete

Here's a bit more information. If the rear track width is wider than the front it's likely that understeer will be difficult to null without mucking about with the roll rates. It's common to have a wider front track than rear track in most race cars as this aids in making it somewhat easier to achieve neutral handling without having to add rear bar. From measuring the track on my car since I've been curious as to why they used 5mm spacers in the back with 12mm in front I find the front track is indeed slightly wider than the rear when taking the camber angles into account. So it's square and without stagger but with a slight reverse stagger, if you will. Which might help explain why it's easier than you'd think to rotate the car although it does take some effort and really only in extremes. So you might consider attempting something similar since it's so easy to do with different spacer thicknesses. Worth a shot anyway. Small changes aren't all that obvious but I suspect squaring the tracks might be at the extremes required in AX. Cheap fix if true. FWIW. Here's a headache inducing thread discussing the issue - http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=165852

I have a 5mm spacer up front on 17x8.5 with 245/40 RS3s

Any more spacer up front and I'll be grinding away on my outside fender

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by justpete

Cool! Thanks, I'm looking into them now. Also been trying to find an equivalent to or a way to modify this to work: http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-...ing-p1417.aspx

Jebus, that's built like a tank!

The shop uses BMRS fittings and lines so this is covered, expensive but covered. They'll use BMRS on the diff cooler as well.

I looked into those when I was refitting my lines but the crimp ends were too dear for my blood. Nice kit!!

11.5:1 CR (for 100 octane) with custom pistons (higher valve lift clearance) and skimmed head, stainless hollow stem race valves and HD springs, high lift street/track cams, port and polish, three angle grind, unshroud, balance valve train, custom NGK "8" plugs, blueprint and balance bottom end, deck if needed, knife edge crank if needed, "loose" race rod and main bearings, and machining to accommodate ARP rod and main and head hardware. Basically a complete race rebuild. Will be painting the engine compartment and the inside of the new CF hood gloss white while the engine's out. Not that it increases power but it does look cool and that's gotta be worth ten horse, right?

gaah that sounds like such a fun motor... tbh way more fun than my n54. I really love NA screamers, maybe not for the street but for the track there's nothing better! How high do you expect your powerband to go with that head and valvetrain work?

135i front calipers with Stoptech pistons, seals, and boots, Hard Brake 0.5mm titanium shims, XP10 pads, Stoptech lines (Bimmerworld lines in house now but haven't decided to install yet), stock rear calipers but with Bimmerworld solid guide pin bushings, and XP10 pads - with Torque RT700 fluid. Stops like crazy without fade. Car's curb weight is currently about 3260 lbs, headed toward 3000lbs unladen, or another three hundred less. Whee!

That's awesome - how do you like the XP10's feel? I've heard they can be mushy? I've thought about running them in the past but opted to try out stoptech's new SR33 setup.

Obviously I am running full street weight and have little intention of dropping mass, so I'm hauling around a portly 3600lbs on stoptech 6/4 pot BBK on R1R's and have yet to fade the system, withOUT additional cooling. To be fair I am running castrol SRF which is pretty stout, but I'm still blown away. To make matters more dramatic, I haven't heard thrown in the race pads. Yes you read that right, I'm still running the Street Performance pads that came with the kit and have yet to experience pad fade even on my fastest laps. I'm not racer but I do keep up decently so it's not like I'm babying her. Pretty stout stuff.

[chris82]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Is the adapter the type that plugs into the bottom of the stock thermostat cover? The kind that slides in from the bottom and is secured by one bolt? I know that's a bad description but I ask because that design is notorious for leaking - it ended up on my ride which is why I switched to Rob Beck's thermostat delete plate and an external improved racing thermostat. Also running braided AN lines which I feel much more confident in now. I know you dont have an N54 so I'm not sure if what I'm saying even applies to you, but just in case it does...

And yes, will let you know if I track down my front end clunk! Funny thing is, the car doesn't handle oddly at all. There's just that skeery noise.

PS, I have camber envy

You have a PM!!

[ashmostro]

Right back atcha buddy

Did you get yours at VAC?

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

I have a 5mm spacer up front on 17x8.5 with 245/40 RS3s

Any more spacer up front and I'll be grinding away on my outside fender

OK, was worth a shot anyway.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

that's a great thread - thanks for posting that up pete

Always glad to help, couldn't figure out how to attach aspirin though.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Jebus, that's built like a tank!

Yezzir, they make some seriously cool stuff! Nothing like this for the N54 though. Bummer.

Originally Posted by ashmostro

I looked into those when I was refitting my lines but the crimp ends were too dear for my blood. Nice kit!!

Oh yeah, pricey stuff alright. Already cringing waiting for the bill when it comes. Yikes.

Originally Posted by ashmostro

gaah that sounds like such a fun motor... tbh way more fun than my n54. I really love NA screamers, maybe not for the street but for the track there's nothing better! How high do you expect your powerband to go with that head and valvetrain work?

Thinking we can get redline to or close to 8000rpm and leaned out counting on the NPG along with the two step colder plugs, and their specific electrode geometry, to help avoid detonation. The plugs are a hundred bucks a pop and I'll have to change them pretty often, I think. And the NPG will cause the engine to run considerably hotter than it would otherwise even with the Mishimoto 75C thermostat, could be a problem especially with A/C running in slow traffic.

I don't expect the engine to safely run with less than 93 octane but then I never end up in a position needing gas and not being able to find one of the major suppliers quickly so I don't think it's an issue. Shouldn't have too much of a lumpy idle, I hope, or too much higher of an idle rpm so there's some hope (delusion?) that it'll be streetable. Then again, I guess my definition of streetable isn't exactly commonplace so take that with a bit of an industrial salt lick.

Summer in north TX along with the occasional stop and go traffic I can't avoid or didn't foresee or got unlucky enough to be trapped in could admittedly be dangerous for engine temps especially with the A/C running. But I've driven a lot of summers without A/C and even one summer without a blower cuz I was too lazy to fight the damn thing to replace it (in a different car bitd) and my first car was without A/C, on the border, and the first one I bought was also without A/C. All this said of course to convince myself I'll be able to kill the A/C if needed. Not that I won't be whimpering and whining about it though especially after the sunroof is gone. Not a whole lot of air moving houtside once the summer high pressure system settles in for the duration either. Can seriously suck. But, hey, it's worth it, right? Right? Is this mic on?

Then again the OMP HRC-R seat with the air option would be a solution in conjunction with a FAST blower. For that kind of money though, well, uh, wait a minute...credicardicide _isn't_ a statutory infraction! Sweet! LOL

Passengers get the HTE-R XL with no air so if they're in the car it's A/C or nuthin. Dangit.

Originally Posted by ashmostro

That's awesome - how do you like the XP10's feel? I've heard they can be mushy? I've thought about running them in the past but opted to try out stoptech's new SR33 setup.

Lurv 'em! Mushfree. Completely. Don't want to stomp them in traffic unless you want the guy behind you to be in the passenger seat. And the cold bite is there even below freezing which is kind of amazing since the R1Rs shouldn't be wanting to traction the road at those temps.

I ran the Stoptech Street Performance pads for a while and one trackday, no issues, no fade, but nowhere near the bite and modulation friendliness of the Carbotechs. But if you use them be sure to buy them pre-bedded, don't even try 'em without it, your rotors will thank you. And Carbotech will do it for you if you buy them without this option, ask me how I know (after buying five axles w/o it). Details? Pay attention thereto? (thereunto?) Nah. What's the fun in that? *rolls eyes*

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Obviously I am running full street weight and have little intention of dropping mass, so I'm hauling around a portly 3600lbs on stoptech 6/4 pot BBK on R1R's and have yet to fade the system, withOUT additional cooling. To be fair I am running castrol SRF which is pretty stout, but I'm still blown away. To make matters more dramatic, I haven't heard thrown in the race pads. Yes you read that right, I'm still running the Street Performance pads that came with the kit and have yet to experience pad fade even on my fastest laps. I'm not racer but I do keep up decently so it's not like I'm babying her. Pretty stout stuff.

Came real close to buying the same BBK but the lack of a functional e-brake kept me from pulling the trigger. What I have now started out as an experiment to see what the guys over on 1addicts were saying was applicable to a much heavier car.

But the pedal still wasn't what I'd been looking for, albeit better than before. I started down the road of looking into anti-knockback springs, possibly custom AP rotors and calipers (they'll do it but the price was more than I was willing to go for - as an example, custom hats for existing rotors cost the shop $5K for four of 'em), RB floating rotors up front, etc. until I remembered reading about solid guide pin bushings. Figured they'd be worth a try given how inexpensive they are. And holy moly did they make a huge freakin improvement!

The pedal went from typical OE kindamushysorta to rock solid, exactly what I was looking for. It was those damnedable polymer OE guide rod bushings all along! Turned out the simple solution was the best solution for my application of course. Heavier cars and to some extent this car in its current state need better brakes than hacked OE rear calipers I think especially if they're closing on corners at high speeds and need to brake more than usual due to suspension limitations. I'm hoping to avoid the weight and cost of a BBK by reducing the weight of the car, which most are sane enough to avoid, and by increasing caster to its max on the camber plates so turn in can be faster so braking can be reduced as can the distance over which trail braking is needed making it easier to maintain chassis balance. At least it sounds like a good plan...

Since you're running SRF and Street Performance pads you can't possibly be overbraking carrying that much weight, that's very cool! Good choice with the SRF, that would be the next step if I'd kept boiling brake fluid. Had to change from Motul to Torque because of that. I think the titanium shims and XP10 pads help apply higher brake torque over a shorter interval without boiling the fluid yet giving me the margin to overbrake a little since I've not reached a level where braking is minimized. The hope (delusion again?) is that I can improve faster than I can screw up the brake system. Keeping the unsprung weight down as the weight of the car decreases is a key goal at the moment, we'll see if it can be achieved, dunno really.