[BMRu4ia]

Tank is just going through it's normal cycle. I would add a hardy fish to start properly cycling your tank.
The best was for a tank to be successful is being patience.

[longtran]

Originally Posted by BMRu4ia

Tank is just going through it's normal cycle. I would add a hardy fish to start properly cycling your tank.
The best was for a tank to be successful is being patience.

i have a damsel for about a week.

[Nikki]

Do you have liverock and livesand? You need them both to cycle the tank. You can mix livesand with regular sand if you don't want to pay as much and you can also mix a couple pieces of live rock with some regular rock at the fish store. You don't want to add any corals yet but a hearty fish like a damsel is good. Next add snails, hermit crabs, and a sandsifting seastar.

[longtran]

here is my tank wheni just added the live rock...the water is kind of foggy.

[longtran]

here it is now. 1.5 weeks later. even the damsel feels right at home. so many algae. how do i control this SOB.

[Nikki]

Looks nice! Is the rock against the glass? You don't want a lot leaning on the glass because it adds a lot of weight and it will scratch. A couple rocks leaning against the back is ok though. For sand, I can't really tell but you should have about 1" of sand spread evenly and you can mix the regular and live sand together, that's what we did. Make sure you keep a file of your pictures with dates and note your changes, it helps a lot when you're looking back.

[longtran]

Originally Posted by Nikki

Looks nice! Is the rock against the glass? You don't want a lot leaning on the glass because it adds a lot of weight and it will scratch. A couple rocks leaning against the back is ok though. For sand, I can't really tell but you should have about 1" of sand spread evenly and you can mix the regular and live sand together, that's what we did. Make sure you keep a file of your pictures with dates and note your changes, it helps a lot when you're looking back.

is it a bad thing for the rocks to lean against the glass? i dont think i have alot leaning in the glass..

[RBBMWE46M3]

Originally Posted by longtran

is it a bad thing for the rocks to lean against the glass? i dont think i have alot leaning in the glass..

Keep all live rock off the glass if possible...I do see something I would remedy if possible...Try to keep as much live rock off the bottom of your tank...if you have to, use cut off pieces of PVC pipe to make little stands off the bottom of your tank to keep the live rock off the bottom...this eliminates dead spots on the sand that will gather detritus...don't worry...the amphipods and copepods and all the little critters will colonize in the sand no problem with the rock off the substrate. If you use pieces that are as thick as your sand is deep, you wont see them...and even if you do see them, the purple and pink coralline algae will cover it up( coralline algae doesn't like bright light) I see a cyano bloom in your pics ( it really is a bacteria)... are you running a protean skimmer?..are you using ro water for make up and water changes and what kind of lights in your light fixture are you using?..are you adding Iodine?

[longtran]

Originally Posted by RBBMWE46M3

Keep all live rock off the glass if possible...I do see something I would remedy if possible...Try to keep as much live rock off the bottom of your tank...if you have to, use cut off pieces of PVC pipe to make little stands off the bottom of your tank to keep the live rock off the bottom...this eliminates dead spots on the sand that will gather detritus...don't worry...the amphipods and copepods and all the little critters will colonize in the sand no problem with the rock off the substrate. If you use pieces that are as thick as your sand is deep, you wont see them...and even if you do see them, the purple and pink coralline algae will cover it up( coralline algae doesn't like bright light) I see a cyano bloom in your pics ( it really is a bacteria)... are you running a protean skimmer?..are you using ro water for make up and water changes and what kind of lights in your light fixture are you using?..are you adding Iodine?

huh?? first off, what is a cyano bloom? i am not runinng a protein skimmer. i am planning to get the lee protein skimmer. would you recommend that? ro water? i dont know what that is. i used the water that you buy at the fish store. light fixtures are the one eclipse supplied except one bulb i changed out for the purple light?. iodine? am i suppose to add this? i have not added any chemical. please recommend me what to add...thanks.

here is the only protein skimmer i think that can work with an eclipse tank. what do you think?

[longtran]

could it be tht my live rocks are no cured? i bought them from my local pets store and he ordered me a box about 56lbs. i just added them in. i was told to have them cured? what the heck does this mean??

[BMRu4ia]

One easy way to check it they are cured, is to pick one up and smell it. If it smells like like sulfur( rotten eggs) then its not cured. It should have a neutral non offensive scent.
The algae will eventually go away(if its healthy), but to reduce it you can leave your light off for a longer time. Algae thrives on light. In time your tank will balance.
btw Nice assortment of Live Rock. You're definitely off to a good start.

[longtran]

Originally Posted by BMRu4ia

One easy way to check it they are cured, is to pick one up and smell it. If it smells like like sulfur( rotten eggs) then its not cured. It should have a neutral non offensive scent.
The algae will eventually go away(if its healthy), but to reduce it you can leave your light off for a longer time. Algae thrives on light. In time your tank will balance.
btw Nice assortment of Live Rock. You're definitely off to a good start.

o i c. yea, it was smelly when i got them. i am planning to keep the tank cycle for 30 days.

[RBBMWE46M3]

skimmer now...will clean up the water..you will be amazed at what you clean out of that thing...not familiar with the "Lee's" skimmer. Your tank will cycle in half the time with a good skimmer and will remain healthy and oxygenate the water with a skimmer on all the time...put one on as soon as possible!!!!!!!

[longtran]

Originally Posted by longtran

huh?? first off, what is a cyano bloom? i am not runinng a protein skimmer. i am planning to get the lee protein skimmer. would you recommend that? ro water? i dont know what that is. i used the water that you buy at the fish store. light fixtures are the one eclipse supplied except one bulb i changed out for the purple light?. iodine? am i suppose to add this? i have not added any chemical. please recommend me what to add...thanks.

RB can you answer these question??

[deutschmann59]

Originally Posted by longtran

huh?? first off, what is a cyano bloom? i am not runinng a protein skimmer. i am planning to get the lee protein skimmer. would you recommend that? ro water? i dont know what that is. i used the water that you buy at the fish store. light fixtures are the one eclipse supplied except one bulb i changed out for the purple light?. iodine? am i suppose to add this? i have not added any chemical. please recommend me what to add...thanks.

here is the only protein skimmer i think that can work with an eclipse tank. what do you think?

Longtran, cynobacteria is "red slime" algae that usually grows in dead spots of the tank. The best way to clear it up is to ensure that the water is CONSTANTLY moving in nearly every spot. Now, this doesn't mean the water has to be like a river rapid, but the water can't stagnate. If the water is moving, then you've got a less chance of a bad algae buildup.

This is where you get into powerheads, and this is where what was supposed to be a somewhat straightfoward hobby gets more complicated. With saltwater tanks, it's like once you fix something, your "fix" just caused a problem for something else. For example, if the water current is to high (if your powerhead is too strong) then the flowing water will literally rip apart your corals. If it isn't strong enough, your corals will die because of lack of movement (food, since they filter feed) and a low current means A LOT of algae.

I avoided this completely and here is just a suggestion before you buy anymore parts for your aquarium, like powerheads, consider this:

Buy an external wet/dry filter for your system where water is taken out of the tank into a smaller tank (the wet/dry) and pumped back in. By pumping the water back in, you can split the water being pumped back in into a "Y" and create a perfect current that way. In my opinion, even with a tank as small as 30 gallons, wet/dry is the way to go.

Some have a problem with wet/dry filters because in fact, over time, the bio balls (plastic balls that act like live rock after a while because they gather de-nitrifying bacteria) eventually create excess nitrate. But I have solved this problem by completely submerging the bio-balls, so they are pratcially just like live rock, with no excess nitrates.

RO water is a must...it is "Reverse Osmosis" which is a fancy word meaning it is practically 100% water with no other chemicals (chlorine, etc) Fish stores sell this as it is a must. You can probably get 5 gallons for about $1.50.

If you are looking for a protein skimmer, the best of the best is made by Aqua C and this is the one item you don't want to skimp on. Get a good protein skimmer because the better the skimmer, the less dissolved ogranic compounds, and the less you have to do water changes.

I've got the wet/dry filter and I've got an aqua C remora protein skimmer on the wall of the filter, so you don't even see the skimmer anywhere near the tank.

Iodine (iodide) is a chemical you need to add usually only for reef tanks. This should be in very small amounts (a cap full for every 40-50 gallons). Corals and some inverts need iodide...like shrimp need it to molt every month.

Any other questions, just ask.

[longtran]

Originally Posted by sharp1183

Longtran, cynobacteria is "red slime" algae that usually grows in dead spots of the tank. The best way to clear it up is to ensure that the water is CONSTANTLY moving in nearly every spot. Now, this doesn't mean the water has to be like a river rapid, but the water can't stagnate. If the water is moving, then you've got a less chance of a bad algae buildup.

This is where you get into powerheads, and this is where what was supposed to be a somewhat straightfoward hobby gets more complicated. With saltwater tanks, it's like once you fix something, your "fix" just caused a problem for something else. For example, if the water current is to high (if your powerhead is too strong) then the flowing water will literally rip apart your corals. If it isn't strong enough, your corals will die because of lack of movement (food, since they filter feed) and a low current means A LOT of algae.

I avoided this completely and here is just a suggestion before you buy anymore parts for your aquarium, like powerheads, consider this:

Buy an external wet/dry filter for your system where water is taken out of the tank into a smaller tank (the wet/dry) and pumped back in. By pumping the water back in, you can split the water being pumped back in into a "Y" and create a perfect current that way. In my opinion, even with a tank as small as 30 gallons, wet/dry is the way to go.

Some have a problem with wet/dry filters because in fact, over time, the bio balls (plastic balls that act like live rock after a while because they gather de-nitrifying bacteria) eventually create excess nitrate. But I have solved this problem by completely submerging the bio-balls, so they are pratcially just like live rock, with no excess nitrates.

RO water is a must...it is "Reverse Osmosis" which is a fancy word meaning it is practically 100% water with no other chemicals (chlorine, etc) Fish stores sell this as it is a must. You can probably get 5 gallons for about $1.50.

If you are looking for a protein skimmer, the best of the best is made by Aqua C and this is the one item you don't want to skimp on. Get a good protein skimmer because the better the skimmer, the less dissolved ogranic compounds, and the less you have to do water changes.

I've got the wet/dry filter and I've got an aqua C remora protein skimmer on the wall of the filter, so you don't even see the skimmer anywhere near the tank.

Iodine (iodide) is a chemical you need to add usually only for reef tanks. This should be in very small amounts (a cap full for every 40-50 gallons). Corals and some inverts need iodide...like shrimp need it to molt every month.

Any other questions, just ask.

thank you...can you point out cynobacteria in my picture? i have used the wet/dry system before and it made a mess. i bought the eclipse hood because it doesnt make a mess as the wet/dry system. the only protein skimmer that would work is the one i posted. its actually goes into the tank. i try to keep the surrounding are of tank as clean as possible. Ro water, i did buy that kind of water. i had to lug 8 of them 5 gallon container to fill it up. so what is my next move??? nikki suggested cleaning critters? like crabs, shrimp, and snails. should i let it cycle more? i guess the next step is to get a powerhead?

[deutschmann59]

Originally Posted by longtran

thank you...can you point out cynobacteria in my picture? i have used the wet/dry system before and it made a mess. i bought the eclipse hood because it doesnt make a mess as the wet/dry system. the only protein skimmer that would work is the one i posted. its actually goes into the tank. i try to keep the surrounding are of tank as clean as possible. Ro water, i did buy that kind of water. i had to lug 8 of them 5 gallon container to fill it up. so what is my next move??? nikki suggested cleaning critters? like crabs, shrimp, and snails. should i let it cycle more? i guess the next step is to get a powerhead?

No problemo, dude!

I think you could go ahead and add turbo snails if you'd like...they're pretty tolerant to bad water conditions. They'll eat the algae, but in the process they'll spread the "buds" around the tank which will create more algae, so they basically cancel out everything they do, but they're pretty cool to watch.

Crabs...well, I don't know about that. First you'll have to make sure they're reef safe. But on top of that, if you put any decorative shells in the tank, they just may switch shells and use the decorative ones you put in, and they tend to knock over your delicate corals as they crawl about the tank.

If you have a regular bio-wheel filter (or something like that) I'd recommend moving that to either the right back end of the tank, or the left back end of the tank. Then add a little powerhead to the other corner. You could go with something like what I had...a Zoo Med Powersweep rotating powerhead. Something like that is simple, and I liked it because it kind of created waves. Something like 190 gallons per hour would be fine for a 30 gallon tank, and if it is too fast, you could always just tilt the nozzle up a bit so it's not "blowing" the coral. Otherwise, Rio Maxijet would be fine too, just as long as it isn't faster than 200 gallons per hour, you should be fine.

The most important thing to remember is you can't have any ammonia or nitrites present in your tank. If you've been keeping track of it and the tests show zero, you can add pretty much whatever you want. The timeframe of 1-2 months to cycle is different for every setup. You've got to make sure you had ammonia and nitrites present at first, and if they are now gone, your tank is A- OK.

You will definitely want to get rid of that fish when it's time to get other fish...the damsel would probably eat whatever else you put in there. And they could be pretty tough to get out, especially with all of those rocks. You might have to get a bucket, fill it with your aquarium water and put the rocks in it temporarily until you get the fish out. The fish store will probably take him back and give you credit for something a little more peaceful.

[Nikki]

oh don't add any crabs, only Hermit crabs!

[deutschmann59]

Originally Posted by longtran

thank you...can you point out cynobacteria in my picture?

Actually, I don't see any cynobacteria. What I see is greenish/golden algae on your sand bed and on the live rocks. It's really nothing to worry about. You might want to check your phosphates and silicates (you won't have to test for this often, because after the system becomes balanced, this problem usually goes away) because this is what the golden/green algae feed on. Actually, the golden "algae" in your tank looks more like diatoms than algae, but get the silicates and phosphates down and you'll be alright.

The ultimate goal here is to add the corals and actually "starve" algae and diatoms by making the coals the winner of the competition for food. This happens over time (not overnight) and your tank will look disgusting for a while until this balance happens. It's natural, but will definitely pay off once it is completely balanced.

[deutschmann59]

This is "red slime" cynobacteria. Believe me, you'll know it when you see it. It tends to grow EVERYWHERE until you're able to starve it with corals.

[longtran]

thanks sharp1183.

[longtran]

1 week later i added some critters and 2 mexican turbo snail. i also have a crab i added in there. it looks so cool i had to get it. its a green color crab. the guy at the fish store said its coral safe. can someone confirm this? if not i will have to take him out. all and all looks like they are doing a great job cleaning the tank. also added the wavemaker. this friday i will get the protein in.