[mortanfrl]

Hi, sorry if my title is inappropriate but I really need to fix this issue (if I can) ASAP.
I have like the title mentions, a BMW E90 318i N43B20A 2007 143ps with 178.000 km on board (hope they're real) which overheats. The temperature reaches 130° C while driving, doesn't turn on immediately if it is turned off when overheated (obviously I guess..?) and all this while the radiator blinds remain closed and the fan is not working. I have tested the water pump, which works when I turn on the heat with the engine off and press the acceleration pedal to the max for 10 seconds, or when the engine is turned on and the heat is on, but doesn't turn on otherwise, changed thermostat, changed timing chain (probably irrelevant). Also, all the mentioned above (radiator fan, radiator blinds) work if activated via software interface, they just don't activate when the engine is hot like they're supposed to, and the error codes are: 2E85, 2FAB, 2A2D, 2F11, 30C1, 2E83. Other than the overheating issues the car works fine when relatively cold (AC doesn't work..) with the exception being some smoke and some misfires when revving, the issues appear when temperature rises and the engine turns off by itself if not revved (to prevent damage maybe?). Check engine is also very rarely on (sometimes when it overheats but not always). I also don't understand why it doesn't notify me when it overheats, I only know it does by navigating the "secret" menu everytime I turn on the car. Don't think that is normal...
Thanks in advance and sorry again if my title is bothering anybody, I'm quite new to BMW's in general and this community...

[NZE90]

Have you bothered to look up the meaning of all those fault codes?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by mortanfrl

... E90 318i N43B20A 2007 143ps with 178.000 km... temperature reaches 130° C while driving, [HOW was that determined? Hidden Menu 7.00? InfraRed Thermometer? Aimed WHERE?] doesn't turn on immediately if it is turned off when overheated [please define: does Starter Crank engine? Starter Cranks engine but Engine does NOT fire?]... the radiator blinds remain closed and the fan is not working... Also, all the mentioned above (radiator fan, radiator blinds) work if activated via software interface, they just don't activate when the engine is hot like they're supposed to, and the error codes are: 2E85, 2FAB, 2A2D, 2F11, 30C1, 2E83.

A) What "Software Interface" do you have? INPA? ISTA?
B) What are Last-7 Characters of your VIN?

HOW are you measuring an Engine Temp Value? Hidden Menu 7.00, Scan Tool/INPA ECTS value is based on ECTS Signal as received by DME, so if Sensor or wiring are bad, you get BOGUS signal.

Suggested DIAGNOSIS Steps:
1) I would FIRST determine is there is an ACTUAL "Overheat" condition (which you MAY have done, but don't mention. Is there any steam, loss of coolant, knock, gurgling, or other physical symptom of overheat? Have you aimed Infrared Thermometer at ECTS at OFH, and gotten a reading that confirms ECTS Value?

2) 2nd: determine WHY there is an actual overheat situation, OR WHY the DME is getting signal/INPUT of Overheat condition. From what you have posted thus far, it would appear you have an INPUT wiring fault that prevents the DME from activating either the E-Fan or the Upper Blind. They BOTH work on OUTPUT side of DME, when Activated. You indicate you have used "software" to activate both the Radiator Fan (E-Fan) & Upper Radiator Blind.

You suggest that when returned to DME control, both those components cease function/ Close. How long can your software keep E-fan running? How Long can it keep upper Blind open? I presume that same software also allows you to MONITOR function of those components while under DME Control (Status/ Live Data)? Can your Software ALSO monitor Coolant Pump Speed, at least as % of max speed? Can it monitor T-Stat Heater Activation %? INPA can do ALL those & more (System Tests, etc.).

3) Does your 318i N43 have a "Radiator Outlet Temp Sensor" (ROTS) on the Lower Radiator Hose? If so, THAT sensor (or its wiring/connector), rather than the ECTS, MAY be the cause of your issue. As example, my N52K in 328xi does NOT have ROTS, ONLY the ECTS. Yet, the Temp displays for Pump, T-stat & Fan ALL show BOTH ECTS & ROTS values. ROTS is computed, and ALWAYS 7.5C LOWER than ECTS Value, on vehicles with NO ROTS, like my N52K.

If your Software does NOT provide Definition of fault codes, you can always find them using:
https://bmwfault.codes/
Here are the Fault Info sheets for: 2FAB, 2A2D, 2F11, 30C1
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...gAOQAzADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...IAMQAxADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...AANgAxADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...YAOAAxADAANAA=

Since two of those codes suggest Fuel Pressure & Oil Pressure TOO HIGH, that suggests there MAY be a pinched wiring harness or some other wiring fault affecting Sensor Input to DME.

Please let us know answers to questions above, and if you need test suggestions, please indicate if you have INPA/ISTA, or Make/Model of Scan Tool/ Software available.
George

[mortanfrl]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

A) What "Software Interface" do you have? INPA? ISTA?
B) What are Last-7 Characters of your VIN?

HOW are you measuring an Engine Temp Value? Hidden Menu 7.00, Scan Tool/INPA ECTS value is based on ECTS Signal as received by DME, so if Sensor or wiring are bad, you get BOGUS signal.

Suggested DIAGNOSIS Steps:
1) I would FIRST determine is there is an ACTUAL "Overheat" condition (which you MAY have done, but don't mention. Is there any steam, loss of coolant, knock, gurgling, or other physical symptom of overheat? Have you aimed Infrared Thermometer at ECTS at OFH, and gotten a reading that confirms ECTS Value?

2) 2nd: determine WHY there is an actual overheat situation, OR WHY the DME is getting signal/INPUT of Overheat condition. From what you have posted thus far, it would appear you have an INPUT wiring fault that prevents the DME from activating either the E-Fan or the Upper Blind. They BOTH work on OUTPUT side of DME, when Activated. You indicate you have used "software" to activate both the Radiator Fan (E-Fan) & Upper Radiator Blind.

You suggest that when returned to DME control, both those components cease function/ Close. How long can your software keep E-fan running? How Long can it keep upper Blind open? I presume that same software also allows you to MONITOR function of those components while under DME Control (Status/ Live Data)? Can your Software ALSO monitor Coolant Pump Speed, at least as % of max speed? Can it monitor T-Stat Heater Activation %? INPA can do ALL those & more (System Tests, etc.).

3) Does your 318i N43 have a "Radiator Outlet Temp Sensor" (ROTS) on the Lower Radiator Hose? If so, THAT sensor (or its wiring/connector), rather than the ECTS, MAY be the cause of your issue. As example, my N52K in 328xi does NOT have ROTS, ONLY the ECTS. Yet, the Temp displays for Pump, T-stat & Fan ALL show BOTH ECTS & ROTS values. ROTS is computed, and ALWAYS 7.5C LOWER than ECTS Value, on vehicles with NO ROTS, like my N52K.

If your Software does NOT provide Definition of fault codes, you can always find them using:
https://bmwfault.codes/
Here are the Fault Info sheets for: 2FAB, 2A2D, 2F11, 30C1
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...gAOQAzADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...IAMQAxADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...AANgAxADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...YAOAAxADAANAA=

Since two of those codes suggest Fuel Pressure & Oil Pressure TOO HIGH, that suggests there MAY be a pinched wiring harness or some other wiring fault affecting Sensor Input to DME.

Please let us know answers to questions above, and if you need test suggestions, please indicate if you have INPA/ISTA, or Make/Model of Scan Tool/ Software available.
George

Hi, firstly thanks for trying to help. I have attached the images with the codes, I don't know the software name though, the tablet was not mine...
The temperature was determined using the Hidden Menu 7.00, don't have an infrared camera...
The Starter cranks the engine but it does not start.
The last 7 character of the VIN are: VF73619.
Sometimes some gurgling, no steam, no loss of coolant.
Sadly don't know if it has a "Radiator Outlet Temp Sensor", will find out...
Today I made sure the water pump cables were good and the car finally opened the radiator blinds and started the radiator fan at 105° C, but after turning off it would not start again immediately, I would need to wait 5 minutes until the engine would start again. Fuel pump's fault maybe? Also, I've heard the radiator fan needs to turn on a couple of seconds at least after starting the engine, is that true? Images:

View post on imgur.com

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by mortanfrl

... I have attached the images with the codes, I don't know the software name though, the tablet was not mine. The temperature was determined using the Hidden Menu 7.00, don't have an infrared camera. [See Below] The Starter cranks the engine but it does not start. The last 7 character of the VIN are: VF73619. Sometimes some gurgling, no steam, no loss of coolant. Sadly don't know if it has a "Radiator Outlet Temp Sensor", will find out...
Today I made sure the water pump cables were good and the car finally opened the radiator blinds and started the radiator fan at 105° C, but after turning off it would not start again immediately, [Any Warning Light(s) on Instrument Cluster > 10 seconds after start attempt?] I would need to wait 5 minutes until the engine would start again. Fuel pump's fault maybe? Also, I've heard the radiator fan needs to turn on a couple of seconds at least after starting the engine, is that true?...

1) An Infrared Thermometer can obtained in many places for ~ $20 US. Apparently either Amazon UK or Amazon DE (Germany) will deliver to Romania:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=infrare...s_ts-doa-p_4_8

I would suggest getting/ borrowing an Infrared Thermometer to add to your "ToolBox". It would be quicker & easier to diagnose your issues with a Scan Tool that can read "Hexadecimal Codes" or "HexCodes". What bothers me about the codes you have attached is that the "Stare"/ Status of each says "History".

2) FAULT CODES: I am used to INPA/ISTA which show "Fault Memory" or "Fehlerspeicher", meaning fault codes that have NOT been Cleared/deleted. Another completely DIFFERENT "class" of codes is "Historienspeicher" or History Memory. In the DME, even after a fault that set a code in Fault Memory has been corrected, AND the fault code has been CLEARED from Fehlerspeicher, it remains in Historienspeicher. That "History Memory" retains the last 10 Fault Codes saved in Fehlerspeicher (Fault Memory), to provide an Historical Record for Diagnosis.

So I have to wonder if the Fault Codes you are posting are CURRENTLY Present in Fault Memory (Fehlerspeicher) or NOT. There are a LOT of folks trying to "Hack Into" or query the Modules in various vehicles with devices they are selling, and you have to READ / become familiar with/ the Manual/ Software & HOW it works, to prevent Incorrect ASSumptions.

Perhaps any simple Scan Tool that can read Fault Codes in the DME (even if that is ONLY Module it can read) will give reliable information on CURRENT Codes. THAT is what we need as a Starting Point: CURRENT CODES.

3) WHY CRANK, NO START? I DON'T know how the N43 DME works, but it MAY prevent Engine Start if Temperature is 120C or MORE. 105C is NORMAL operating temperature, and should NOT cause an Engine Temp Warning Light OR Crank, NO Start. Particularly IF your Radiator Blind & E-Fan are NOW operating when ECTS signal reaches 105C, that suggests those are NOT causing any issue.

4) ROTS: If your car HAS that Sensor, it should be visible when looking at the Lower Radiator Hose, between the right-rear of radiator & T-Stat. If it has such a ROTS, then THAT (& its wiring) needs to be tested, along with the ECTS. Any Warning Light(s) on Instrument Cluster?

5) Radiator Fan: Bentley Manual, 170-3 states:

When the vehicle is first started, the ECM activates the electric fan briefly at 20% of its maximum speed, then switches OFF. This is for diagnostic monitoring. The voltage generated by the fan when it slows down (acting as a generator) must match the stored rpm values in the fan output stage to confirm that the fan is operating correctly.

My E-Fan on my N52K-engined 328xi (MSV80 dme) runs briefly after engine start. I haven't tested for that recently, but on the occasions several years ago when tested, it behaved as described above.

Please try to find a Scan Tool/ diagnostic Software you can use to determine/ post CURRENTLY PRESENT Fault Codes. We obviously need to address the intermittent "Crank, NO Start" condition FIRST. In US, major parts chains will read Fault Codes FREE. Those $tore$ obviously have a "vested interest" in perpetuating the myth: "Fault Code X means Replace Part Y".
George