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      04-19-2017, 07:57 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okb4 View Post
I also asked the mechanic about the normal range for compression results for a 2010 BMW 335d. He didn't have that information with him for the call but said that he would check on this and get back to me. He did intimate that the 30.11 bar reading for the fourth cylinder was higher than a 25 to 30 bar range that he thought (off the top of his head) was normal for the car. Does anyone know what the normal compression test range is for this car?

When I speak to the service manager tomorrow, I'll ask them to review what the correct adaptations are for this car and ask them to try resetting them again.
Torqu3 answered your first question about tuning/abc's very well so I'll leave it alone.


400-440psi is right where my 16.x:1 VW race tdi motors end up compression wise so we're in the ballpark as the bmw is 16.x:1 also. Once again, you DO NOT have a compression issue. The ECU cannot measure compression and there's no way in hell a 12psi difference between cylinders 3&4 will cause a fault in one. Period. The engine is 110% mechanically sound and if a service writer tries to tell you otherwise with the numbers you posted, hang up and call someone else (unless you're getting a new engine under warranty, in that case let them replace away, still won't fix it, but you'll have a new engine !).

Off the top of my head, iaknown in NJ or DWR in Maine are your geographically closest members that would have a chance of having INPA/ISTA to my knowledge. 99% sure DWR does. On that thought, I'm going to suggest having a google map based handy member/trusted shops location map. As much of red headed stepchildren as 335d's are to most dealers/shops, I think it would benefit many to be able to see the nearest place to get non dealer help.

Last edited by Whitbread; 04-19-2017 at 08:08 PM..
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      04-19-2017, 09:22 PM   #46
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Can someone please post a CBU SIB for the OP, I do not have it.
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      04-19-2017, 09:36 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
Can someone please post a CBU SIB for the OP, I do not have it.
Also see PM
Attached Images
File Type: pdf SIB 110314 Carbon Cleaning E90.pdf (952.9 KB, 385 views)

Last edited by montr; 04-19-2017 at 09:44 PM..
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      04-20-2017, 12:56 AM   #48
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Thanks montr. I know I have seen the instructions that outlined what adaptations need to be reset after the CBU clean. Could not find that in the doc above. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I recall the following:

-increment wheel
-zero quantity
-mean quantity
-mass air flow
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      04-20-2017, 01:15 AM   #49
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http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=812497
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...highlight=IRAP

Someone said before that IRAP is no longer needed. Would be nice to know what exact "programming" they've done to the car.

Also, if they have found "more carbon" after a recent cleaning, I would be asking for photos for each runner.
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      04-20-2017, 09:18 PM   #50
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Lots of new information for me to go over. Thanks to all.

Here's the latest on my end. I spoke with the Service Manager again this evening. He said that he had gotten in contact with BMW and BMW agreed to pay for all parts, up to and including replacing the engine. The downside for me is that BMW wants me to pay for all labor costs. In the worst case scenario, he told me that the labor costs could reach $6,000. He also sent me the specs for my engine (see attachment below)

I asked the lead mechanic to clarify his theory of the issue. He is saying that cylinder four is acting differently from the other five cylinders. I'm paraphrasing, but what I got from the Service Manager's description of the issue is that cylinder four is taking 3 to 4 seconds to reach compression and the other five cylinders are taking 7 to 8 seconds to reach compression.

I'm hoping to speak with the lead mechanic tomorrow to better understand his theory. I'll report back.

What I'm hoping to understand better, are the alternatives. I can reach out to DWR (ME is closer for me than NJ).

On my end, I want to end up with a car that will pass MA inspection. If I also get added benefits (e.g. better performance, decreased likelihood of CBU) all the better. I simply want to continue to drive this car.

Any ideas on the likely costs to make the needed modifications to my car?
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      04-20-2017, 09:52 PM   #51
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This must be a sign of a 4-20...
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      04-20-2017, 10:35 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=812497
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...highlight=IRAP

Someone said before that IRAP is no longer needed. Would be nice to know what exact "programming" they've done to the car.

Also, if they have found "more carbon" after a recent cleaning, I would be asking for photos for each runner.
I'll ask the mechanic for this information when I speak with him. Thanks
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      04-20-2017, 10:43 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitbread View Post
Torqu3 answered your first question about tuning/abc's very well so I'll leave it alone.


400-440psi is right where my 16.x:1 VW race tdi motors end up compression wise so we're in the ballpark as the bmw is 16.x:1 also. Once again, you DO NOT have a compression issue. The ECU cannot measure compression and there's no way in hell a 12psi difference between cylinders 3&4 will cause a fault in one. Period. The engine is 110% mechanically sound and if a service writer tries to tell you otherwise with the numbers you posted, hang up and call someone else (unless you're getting a new engine under warranty, in that case let them replace away, still won't fix it, but you'll have a new engine !).

Off the top of my head, iaknown in NJ or DWR in Maine are your geographically closest members that would have a chance of having INPA/ISTA to my knowledge. 99% sure DWR does. On that thought, I'm going to suggest having a google map based handy member/trusted shops location map. As much of red headed stepchildren as 335d's are to most dealers/shops, I think it would benefit many to be able to see the nearest place to get non dealer help.
Thanks Whitbread, Does anyone out there know of any shops with 335d expertise within 100 miles or so of the Boston, MA area? I messaged DWR, but he doesn't have to contend with passing an emissions test in his local, which I do in MA.
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      04-25-2017, 07:23 AM   #54
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I work in Framingham, so I'm basically your neighbor. Just going through a DPF/SCR delete and tune from BPC. German performance service in boston seem like good guys to work with. They didn't want to get into the aftermarket/emissions problems I was having, but might be good people for you to talk to.

If you end up doing deletes/tunes, PM me, as I am about to have firsthand experience.
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      04-25-2017, 08:12 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColonelSanders View Post
I work in Framingham, so I'm basically your neighbor. Just going through a DPF/SCR delete and tune from BPC. German performance service in boston seem like good guys to work with. They didn't want to get into the aftermarket/emissions problems I was having, but might be good people for you to talk to.

If you end up doing deletes/tunes, PM me, as I am about to have firsthand experience.
Thanks, I'll give them a call. What emissions problems were you having?
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      04-26-2017, 07:51 AM   #56
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I had a couple faults in the SCR tank system. Ended up being easier and cheaper to just get rid of the whole thing.
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      04-26-2017, 03:26 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders View Post
I had a couple faults in the SCR tank system. Ended up being easier and cheaper to just get rid of the whole thing.
That's usually the case on these cars.
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      04-27-2017, 10:50 PM   #58
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I would get rid of the car and get a new BMW with a warranty and not problems like this. I had a 2011 335d that started having issues including going into limp mode while I was on the freeway at night in the left lane during construction. So cars driving at least 70 mph and me trying to do 30 to get out of the way. It spend five trips with BMW and an indy shop all telling me different things. It was finally totalled by the insurance company because of what it would take to fix. So depends on how long you want to mess around with a basket case.
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      04-28-2017, 12:43 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DETSGTSTARSKY View Post
I would get rid of the car and get a new BMW with a warranty and not problems like this. I had a 2011 335d that started having issues including going into limp mode while I was on the freeway at night in the left lane during construction. So cars driving at least 70 mph and me trying to do 30 to get out of the way. It spend five trips with BMW and an indy shop all telling me different things. It was finally totalled by the insurance company because of what it would take to fix. So depends on how long you want to mess around with a basket case.
This model car is not for everyone. Sounds like you, as well as the OP, had the bad fortune of dealing with incompetent repair service facilities.

OP, if you decide to sell, there are many lurkers on this board, as well as the NA 335D facebook page that would gladly buy your car for higher than trade-in value + tax.
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      04-28-2017, 08:21 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanb2b View Post
This model car is not for everyone. Sounds like you, as well as the OP, had the bad fortune of dealing with incompetent repair service facilities.

OP, if you decide to sell, there are many lurkers on this board, as well as the NA 335D facebook page that would gladly buy your car for higher than trade-in value + tax.
I'm not quite there yet, but I'd rather sell to an enthusiast than back to BMW. What's the ballpark range for a 2010 BMW 335d with 68,000 miles?
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      04-29-2017, 03:43 AM   #61
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I'd imagine a far bit less than if it were in tip top running condition.


Quote:
Originally Posted by okb4 View Post
I'm not quite there yet, but I'd rather sell to an enthusiast than back to BMW. What's the ballpark range for a 2010 BMW 335d with 68,000 miles?
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      05-01-2017, 02:59 PM   #62
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Here is my experience with similar issues:
I bought the car at 27K miles, ran fine until 72K miles, getting P0101 code, I decided to do a CBU clean, the manifold and EGR valve were nasty. 6K miles after CBU clean car keeps throwing injector codes, but ran fine until 80K miles, injector 3 miss-fired and engine stuttered at idle.

I replaced inject #3 and sent the other 5 our for cleaning. After that occasionally I got injector code on different injector but never #3. I decided to change the fuel filter, and used Diesel Purge by Liqui Molly, after a few bottle of this injector cleaner, I never saw injector codes again. I had occasional used Power Service Diesel Kleen before, but now I use Liqui Molly every 8 fill-ups, and the other 7 I use Power Service Diesel Kleen (Liqui Molly is more expensive).

Car ran fine until 100K miles, I now got limp mode with code P0402, I replaced the EGR valve, car seems to perform better, but still gets limp mode but less frequent.
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      05-01-2017, 04:17 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerup-sonny View Post
Here is my experience with similar issues:
I bought the car at 27K miles, ran fine until 72K miles, getting P0101 code, I decided to do a CBU clean, the manifold and EGR valve were nasty. 6K miles after CBU clean car keeps throwing injector codes, but ran fine until 80K miles, injector 3 miss-fired and engine stuttered at idle.

I replaced inject #3 and sent the other 5 our for cleaning. After that occasionally I got injector code on different injector but never #3. I decided to change the fuel filter, and used Diesel Purge by Liqui Molly, after a few bottle of this injector cleaner, I never saw injector codes again. I had occasional used Power Service Diesel Kleen before, but now I use Liqui Molly every 8 fill-ups, and the other 7 I use Power Service Diesel Kleen (Liqui Molly is more expensive).

Car ran fine until 100K miles, I now got limp mode with code P0402, I replaced the EGR valve, car seems to perform better, but still gets limp mode but less frequent.
I've come to realize there are only 2 ways I'd want to own this car. Deleted, or with a warranty. Trying to keep this car stock with your own money is ridiculously expensive. But getting it deleted removes most of the problems people experience. I hope California's extended emissions warranty is helping you foot the bill on all of that.
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      05-01-2017, 04:33 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerup-sonny View Post
Here is my experience with similar issues:
I bought the car at 27K miles, ran fine until 72K miles, getting P0101 code, I decided to do a CBU clean, the manifold and EGR valve were nasty. 6K miles after CBU clean car keeps throwing injector codes, but ran fine until 80K miles, injector 3 miss-fired and engine stuttered at idle.

I replaced inject #3 and sent the other 5 our for cleaning. After that occasionally I got injector code on different injector but never #3. I decided to change the fuel filter, and used Diesel Purge by Liqui Molly, after a few bottle of this injector cleaner, I never saw injector codes again. I had occasional used Power Service Diesel Kleen before, but now I use Liqui Molly every 8 fill-ups, and the other 7 I use Power Service Diesel Kleen (Liqui Molly is more expensive).

Car ran fine until 100K miles, I now got limp mode with code P0402, I replaced the EGR valve, car seems to perform better, but still gets limp mode but less frequent.
Were all adaptations reset after your CBU? Could be reason why injector codes keep popping up.
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      05-01-2017, 06:20 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torqu3 View Post
I've come to realize there are only 2 ways I'd want to own this car. Deleted, or with a warranty. Trying to keep this car stock with your own money is ridiculously expensive. But getting it deleted removes most of the problems people experience. I hope California's extended emissions warranty is helping you foot the bill on all of that.
I would love to do all the delete stuff, but how can I get it passed SMOG for DMV in the state of California?
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      05-01-2017, 06:34 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanb2b View Post
Were all adaptations reset after your CBU? Could be reason why injector codes keep popping up.
Yes, they were and it ran find for close to 10K miles.

I think the injector codes are true codes, not sure if the CBU clean pushes some micro carbon down to the injectors. Changed the fuel filter and used Liqui Molly probably did some good.
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