[chris55552]

If you guys had an LCI e92 328i Xdrive with only 2k to spend on a suspension upgrade to make it as close to the OEM sport suspension and overall better handling, what would be your top cost effective choices before inevitably running out of money? Thanks for your time in advance.

[335i54n]

stock height/msport only coilovers are bc rm, otherwise

b8, front monoballs, rear subframe inserts, alignment

[chris55552]

awesome reply, love it thanks for the feedback it helps tremendously.

[Peter Morrin]

A good way to word your question. I strongly suggest reading the referenced article for some guidance. It is the best I have found:

https://dreamingin302ci.blogspot.com...ve-handle.html

The first response has merit. You might want to consider the Powerflex urethane bushinngs for the control arm to chassis bushing (PFF5-5701). Not as solid as the mono-ball but less expensive, less prone to winter corrosion issues, likely less NVH. You should examine the joints of the other front control arms as well as the tie rods while you are in there.

Rear sub-frame bushings are a bear to replace. It took me about 60 hours, but YMMV. I used the Revshift urethane bushings (less expensive from FCP). Less sub-frame movement over bumps on curves, no noticeable increase in NVH.

If your tires need to be replaced, putting money into better rubber is likely good performance value, but durability will likely go down. I run Continental DWS 06 plus in 225/45-17 in the summer and like them as a sporty all-weather tire. I run dedicated snows in the winter.

Outside your budget, but I think the ST coil-overs are perfectly matched to this car for daily sport use. They are the same as the KW 1, but with painted steel bodies rather than stainless. The rear shocks are prone to early failure, so I would consider some Bilstein B8 or Koni when the shock fails. Keep the springs.

Let us know what you end up doing.

[chris55552]

Originally Posted by Peter Morrin

A good way to word your question. I strongly suggest reading the referenced article for some guidance. It is the best I have found:

https://dreamingin302ci.blogspot.com...ve-handle.html

The first response has merit. You might want to consider the Powerflex urethane bushinngs for the control arm to chassis bushing (PFF5-5701). Not as solid as the mono-ball but less expensive, less prone to winter corrosion issues, likely less NVH. You should examine the joints of the other front control arms as well as the tie rods while you are in there.

Rear sub-frame bushings are a bear to replace. It took me about 60 hours, but YMMV. I used the Revshift urethane bushings (less expensive from FCP). Less sub-frame movement over bumps on curves, no noticeable increase in NVH.

If your tires need to be replaced, putting money into better rubber is likely good performance value, but durability will likely go down. I run Continental DWS 06 plus in 225/45-17 in the summer and like them as a sporty all-weather tire. I run dedicated snows in the winter.

Outside your budget, but I think the ST coil-overs are perfectly matched to this car for daily sport use. They are the same as the KW 1, but with painted steel bodies rather than stainless. The rear shocks are prone to early failure, so I would consider some Bilstein B8 or Koni when the shock fails. Keep the springs.

Let us know what you end up doing.

Cant thank you enough for your input, ive never been strong in the suspension and tire coversation but after learning the cons of xdrive I realized I need to study up and make good cost effective decisions. Im not a track guy, really would rather the n52 over the n55 or n54. Id totally prefer a slower smoother car thats well balanced and light on its feet over raw power. My goal for my 3 series is just to get it as close to the rwd sports package feel as possible. One thing thats an easy upgrade is in the wheel department, I currently have wheel style 338 which weigh 27lbs, im ditching those and going with style 157;s which are 18lbs per wheel which will cut down 8lbs at all 4 corners of unsprung or rotational mass which all together comes in at roughly 200 lbs of weight savings which will be about the same as the awd added weight, then adding some michelin pilots or Continental DWS 06 plus in 225/45-17 like you have coupled to at minimum koni yellows and possibly coilovers and new bushings. Thanks for the link and info, im reading it now.

[Peter Morrin]

Our modification objectives and approaches are very similar. I also chose to stay with 17" wheels for reduced weight. When you do buy new tires, consider the tire weight also. I understand the Michelin Pilot tires are excellent, likely better, than the Continental for summer only conditions.

My brake options are limited by my use of 16" rims for winter tires. If you stick with 17" rims year round, you may be able to use two-piece rotors and/or aluminum calipers. The rotors would be the first priority as rotating mass, but lighter calipers will reduce un-sprung mass. These would not be in your first priority list, but something you might consider when your brakes need replacing.

An excellent build article for maximizing performance from an N52 car has been written by "BiginBoca" on this site. His emphasis is weight reduction. His car is RWD but many of his modifications are also applicable to an N52 xdrive. Excellent information, well-researched, tested on the track.

There are others with a lot of "earned" experience in suspension set-ups on this site. Most are very generous with their time and helping others. Keep an eye open for the regular posters in the suspension forum and the track forum where suspension tuning is paramount.

[chris55552]

Originally Posted by Peter Morrin

Our modification objectives and approaches are very similar. I also chose to stay with 17" wheels for reduced weight. When you do buy new tires, consider the tire weight also. I understand the Michelin Pilot tires are excellent, likely better, than the Continental for summer only conditions.

My brake options are limited by my use of 16" rims for winter tires. If you stick with 17" rims year round, you may be able to use two-piece rotors and/or aluminum calipers. The rotors would be the first priority as rotating mass, but lighter calipers will reduce un-sprung mass. These would not be in your first priority list, but something you might consider when your brakes need replacing.

An excellent build article for maximizing performance from an N52 car has been written by "BiginBoca" on this site. His emphasis is weight reduction. His car is RWD but many of his modifications are also applicable to an N52 xdrive. Excellent information, well-researched, tested on the track.

There are others with a lot of "earned" experience in suspension set-ups on this site. Most are very generous with their time and helping others. Keep an eye open for the regular posters in the suspension forum and the track forum where suspension tuning is paramount.

Thanks for the tip and information on the brakes, I was thinking about finding some rotors or calipers that are lighter but havent even priced them yet. Im kinda anxious to at least look at my calipers, I have a shake at certain speeds and my understanding is seized calipers are a common source of vibration from these cars. Another thing I was wondering...Surely you can do the 3 stage intake upgrade on the xi, I just started reading about them and dont see hardly any pertaining to xi owners, I cannot imagine why it wouldnt work. Do you know of any tires that are light weight and or superior to the michelins, im very open minded and put a lot of value on input given by others on here who have experience and knowledge. Thanks again.

[gct201]

Damn this forum is useful. I was a longtime lurker on reddit and here and decided to create a account on a whim and this is the exact scenario I'm in and somebody replied literally today lmao.

[Cyril Sneer]

Originally Posted by chris55552

If you guys had an LCI e92 328i Xdrive with only 2k to spend on a suspension upgrade to make it as close to the OEM sport suspension and overall better handling, what would be your top cost effective choices before inevitably running out of money? Thanks for your time in advance.

Good discussion, and already good info in this thread. Following as I have the same interests.

Here are my comments from another similar thread recently, take from it what you will:

Simple, bang-for-buck options:
- Xdelete - I didn't like it set to full RWD on this car, but the stock AWD is way too front-centric. Need to lessen the front torque for the car to feel right. Xdelete license + DCAN cable, maybe $200?
- Pull the alignment pins for a small increase in front camber (search) ($free)
- Get an alignment. Ask them to set less toe-in (f&r) than BMW specs. Should help tire wear + steering feel. ($100?)

Later:
- 3SIM. I say later because unless you get lucky with good DISA valves included, you'll want to buy new ones at time of install = $$
- Suspension. Stock is far too floaty. Coilovers or springs. Don't go too low or you'll mess up the handling again.
- Lightweight wheel set with performance tires. Less unsprung, rotational weight pays off everywhere.

[chris55552]

Originally Posted by gct201

Damn this forum is useful. I was a longtime lurker on reddit and here and decided to create a account on a whim and this is the exact scenario I'm in and somebody replied literally today lmao.

yeah, agreed you can ask just about any question and have an answer usually same day. The only other forum Ive seen thats this enthusiastic is the technics sl1200 forums, their fanatical. I came into this passionate about bmw's but lacking the mechanical knowledge other members have and cant tell you how much ive learned over the past couple years. Used to be afraid to work on my car, not anymore. lol

[chris55552]

Originally Posted by Cyril Sneer

Good discussion, and already good info in this thread. Following as I have the same interests.

Here are my comments from another similar thread recently, take from it what you will:

Simple, bang-for-buck options:
- Xdelete - I didn't like it set to full RWD on this car, but the stock AWD is way too front-centric. Need to lessen the front torque for the car to feel right. Xdelete license + DCAN cable, maybe $200?
- Pull the alignment pins for a small increase in front camber (search) ($free)
- Get an alignment. Ask them to set less toe-in (f&r) than BMW specs. Should help tire wear + steering feel. ($100?)

Later:
- 3SIM. I say later because unless you get lucky with good DISA valves included, you'll want to buy new ones at time of install = $$
- Suspension. Stock is far too floaty. Coilovers or springs. Don't go too low or you'll mess up the handling again.
- Lightweight wheel set with performance tires. Less unsprung, rotational weight pays off everywhere.

Exactly what im planning on doing, first lighten the wheels with style 157 which will reduce all 4 wheel tire by 8lbs rotational unsprung weight each which will equate to close to 200lbs lighter when all the math is done. Install koni active suspension to reduce body roll and get it all aligned and somewhere in between get the 3 stage intake. Personally I love the n52 have no desire to go to another motor. Just sold my f25 x3 with an N55 motor and sure it had plenty of raw power but lacked the silky refined feel the N52 provides. Engine refinement plus refined suspension and diet at the wheels and im happy.

[chris55552]

Originally Posted by Cyril Sneer

Good discussion, and already good info in this thread. Following as I have the same interests.

Here are my comments from another similar thread recently, take from it what you will:

Simple, bang-for-buck options:
- Xdelete - I didn't like it set to full RWD on this car, but the stock AWD is way too front-centric. Need to lessen the front torque for the car to feel right. Xdelete license + DCAN cable, maybe $200?
- Pull the alignment pins for a small increase in front camber (search) ($free)
- Get an alignment. Ask them to set less toe-in (f&r) than BMW specs. Should help tire wear + steering feel. ($100?)

Later:
- 3SIM. I say later because unless you get lucky with good DISA valves included, you'll want to buy new ones at time of install = $$
- Suspension. Stock is far too floaty. Coilovers or springs. Don't go too low or you'll mess up the handling again.
- Lightweight wheel set with performance tires. Less unsprung, rotational weight pays off everywhere.

what suspension are you going with on yours?

[Peter Morrin]

Finding tire weights can be tricky. You will need to do some searching. Tirerack might be able to help you if you have narrowed it down to a couple tires. I have found their service excellent. The Michelin Pilots are very well respected, expensive, but probably at the top of the performance pile.

The three runner intake on the N52 is the same for x-drive as it is for RWD. Try and get one with DISA valves that work. They are expensive for our cars. Apparently a freer flowing exhaust works well with the 3s manifold. There is a modified tune that is also recommended.

If you don't know when the fluids were last changed, but you should change front and rear differential and transmission fluid every 60,000 miles. Brake fluid every 2 years. These save you money in the long run.

Make sure the plastic basket it still attached to the top of the oil cap. It is frequently removed by mechanics who don't understand its use. This can impace the Vanos solenoids.

If you still have the plastic "Mickey Mouse" flange connecting the coolant hose to the engine. Change it. Now.

[Cyril Sneer]

Originally Posted by chris55552

what suspension are you going with on yours?

ST-x coilovers.

Regarding the style 157, pretty sure they're more like 23 lbs. There were claims of 18 lbs early on but now all sources show 10.4 kg, ~23 lbs. Which is still pretty good, and you'll feel an improvement, but to get under 20 lb I think you gotta go aftermarket. Apex ARC8 in 17x9 I think are under 17 lbs.

[Onizukachan]

I just did the st-x coilovers on my e91 this weekend. You will need to crank the adjuster way up on the rear coils, like 2-3 threads below flush but if you do and set the fronts up 13 from bottom, you will be in the shocks sweet spot, roughly 2wd ride height, amd no XI reverse rake.
Edit: if you set them flush you will be tucking rear tire and have to undo the suspension to take preload off to raise them, but you can lower with lessened preload from a dropped suspension. So better to start high and go lower in rear.

Front are easy, just pick up from center jack point ,reach in the wheel well amd turn them up by hand. No tool or disassembly needed.

Just make sure you put woodblocks, couple 2x4,etc. under wheels to get your jack back out if you don’t have a low profile jack.

AWD are way easier to swap struts on than rwd. Pinch bolt and swaybar endlink to loosen and that’s it.

Edit: if you have Xenon’s, watch out for the height adjuster on right side front and right side rear. Make sure you unbolt it (10mm) before you undo anything else to let suspension droop.

[Onizukachan]

Sorry for daughter posing pic, but it’s the best one to see ride height I have at the moment.

You can also see my “jack it up” wood block I drive onto to get car on or off jacks, neighbor made me for me with scrap 2x4 and a couple screws To hold the cross piece.

Hope it helps!

[Cyril Sneer]

Great info, thanks!

That height looks just about right. Looking to replicate RWD sport suspension, more or less.

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

I just did the st-x coilovers on my e91 this weekend. You will need to crank the adjuster way up on the rear coils, like 2-3 threads below flush but if you do and set the fronts up 13 from bottom, you will be in the shocks sweet spot, roughly 2wd ride height, amd no XI reverse rake.
Edit: if you set them flush you will be tucking rear tire and have to undo the suspension to take preload off to raise them, but you can lower with lessened preload from a dropped suspension. So better to start high and go lower in rear.

Front are easy, just pick up from center jack point ,reach in the wheel well amd turn them up by hand. No tool or disassembly needed.

Just make sure you put woodblocks, couple 2x4,etc. under wheels to get your jack back out if you don’t have a low profile jack.

AWD are way easier to swap struts on than rwd. Pinch bolt and swaybar endlink to loosen and that’s it.

Edit: if you have Xenon’s, watch out for the height adjuster on right side front and right side rear. Make sure you unbolt it (10mm) before you undo anything else to let suspension droop.

[chris55552]

It's a blessing having her help you and heck showing interest in what her daddy is doing. Times like that we remember, so many kids could give a flip about about doing constructive things outside these days and would rather play video games. Hats off to you, you are doing something very right.

[chris55552]

How has your cars handling improved following the coilover installs compared to oem feel?

[chris55552]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

I just did the st-x coilovers on my e91 this weekend. You will need to crank the adjuster way up on the rear coils, like 2-3 threads below flush but if you do and set the fronts up 13 from bottom, you will be in the shocks sweet spot, roughly 2wd ride height, amd no XI reverse rake.
Edit: if you set them flush you will be tucking rear tire and have to undo the suspension to take preload off to raise them, but you can lower with lessened preload from a dropped suspension. So better to start high and go lower in rear.

Front are easy, just pick up from center jack point ,reach in the wheel well amd turn them up by hand. No tool or disassembly needed.

Just make sure you put woodblocks, couple 2x4,etc. under wheels to get your jack back out if you don’t have a low profile jack.

AWD are way easier to swap struts on than rwd. Pinch bolt and swaybar endlink to loosen and that’s it.

Edit: if you have Xenon’s, watch out for the height adjuster on right side front and right side rear. Make sure you unbolt it (10mm) before you undo anything else to let suspension droop.

thats a color I dont see often on e90s, looks great thogh. Really lke your ride. So do the wagons make a noticeable difference in driving dynamics. 25 years ago I would have called someone crazy for opting for the wagon, now I would be jealous and totally get it. Great choice, more useful. They ought to offer a M3 wagon, that would be pretty awesome, we know the driving dynamics would be incredible, and one thing BMW does that always impresses me and suprises me is they know how to make good looking wagons, I mean some make the sedans look boring.

[Onizukachan]

Originally Posted by chris55552

How has your cars handling improved following the coilover installs compared to oem feel?

Can’t speak ot true OEM feel, rears were changed to bilsteins in the last year by po, fronts were OEM. Not sure if OEM 2006, or jsut OEM replacements but they weren’t in great condition when I pulled them out

As it was then to now though, with ride height about 13 turns from bottom in front, it’s plush but taut. Feels premium sport. Was fine before, I mean I drove 2200 miles home in it in 3.5 days and it rode just fine, but this is next level.

Reminds me of a c5 when those were new. Sportily firm but very well damped.


Go lower like 8 turns from bottom and still good, better than it was, but not at the level above. I’m running it about half inch lower in the front now and despite the improved cosmetic appearance will probably raise it back up again for the ride comfort even though the stanceypants folks wont love it anymore.
This one gets used doing school pickup in afternoons and for the Bmwcca meets/drives once a month and cars n coffee twice a month. So really it’s a cruiser for me.

As far as dynamics, all I’ve ever owned is bmw wagons. Did a back to back with a Sedan e34 to touring e34, a lot lot less flex and a lot less weight up top, e34 touring will visibly twist going up driveways sideways, but that was the first touring they ever built and didn’t have all the underbody vert style chassis bracing later touring models had.
e46 could hustle, but you felt the rear weight when on the limit, not so much the top weight, same with e90. and f31 I can only compare to f34, and they felt much the same to me.

Barrique is a love it or hate it color, and until had already bought it amd flew to pick it up I sincerely hoped it was going to be the former. It’s 3-4 colors depending on the light, coppery bronze, metallic purple, wine red/burgundy or brownish red. Sometimes two at once.

Phone pics but look at the difference in color above amd below the body line in the setting sun versus jsut after sunset…
And the last one is where someone else on the web really captured it better than I could!