[wang890]

I have a very slow leak under the fuse box plastic and when wiped it smells like oil and feels like oil, green yellow ish colour, I'm thinking it's ac oil. I was thinking coolant first.

Most of the oil goes under this plastic tray below the fusebox.

Ac works fine, when first turn on car with vents on and can smell this oil a bit and goes away pretty quickly.

I will remove the glove box and fusebox later to see what's going on. The car got that complete loss of power once in the last month of ownership, and came back on its own after a few minutes, I turned off the car and then can't start, I later did all my research and I tug on the big red battery cable at fusebox just so this doesn't happen again and so far so good.

The car has a 3rd gear grind and very little grind in 6th. Its reasonably cheap price I got and no engine lights at all, if it last 3 years im happy. I just had a bmw craving and now I got it out lol.

Just posting asking if anyone see the yellow oil leak under front passenger side footwell.

2007 323i

[StradaRedlands]

I can't see anything in the photo, but could it be coolant leaking from your heater hoses/core?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by wang890

I have a very slow leak under the fuse box plastic and when wiped it smells like oil and feels like oil, green yellow ish colour, I'm thinking it's ac oil... Most of the oil goes under this plastic tray below the fusebox. Ac works fine, when first turn on car with vents on and can smell this oil a bit and goes away pretty quickly...

The car got that complete loss of power once in the last month of ownership, and came back on its own after a few minutes, I turned off the car and then can't start, I later did all my research and I tug on the big red battery cable at fusebox just so this doesn't happen again and so far so good... 2007 323i

The "High Side" (High Pressure) refrigerant line from the Condenser feeds the Expansion Valve which is located approximately above the blower Motor. I would suggest removing the glovebox and using a bright light to look for tell-tale "track" of refrigeration (PAG) oil, and follow that upward to the source. I would NOT remove the JB Fusebox unless necessary.

That "tray" below the Fuse Panel is the JBE Module (with two connectors, Black & Blue, on rear, as shown in your photo). You want to make sure the liquid, WHATEVER it is, does NOT get into the JBE Module or the pins/sockets of the two connectors shown. There are also two other connectors on forward side of JBE: Pins where it plugs into JB Fuse Panel and Chassis Harness Connector on outboard side.

Leak of Refrigeration Oil (IF that is what you are seeing) is normally accompanied by loss of Refrigerant Charge, which is best measured by Manifold Gauges, or INPA/ISTA Live Data of Refrigerant Pressure Sensor value. A simple "Can Tap" with a gauge would allow you to read "Equilibrium Pressure" when engine/compressor has NOT run for several hours, and that can give some clue of Charge Level.

Loss of refrigeration oil can result in damage to compressor, so you want to determine the leak source SOONER rather than "too late".

Since you are in Canada, I don't know if the US Recall related to Blower Motor Harness (which requires removal of Glovebox & JB) relates to your 323i or NOT. It would be helpful to know if work was done in that area, as that MAY be related to the leak you are seeing.

Also, IF the main Power Supply from the Battery to the JB Fuse Panel (X13020), located on Right side of JB Fuse Panel, is NOT making proper contact, that will cause loss of power to ANYTHING inside vehicle, including the CAS Module which must be powered to accept/ release the Remote Key, or crank the Starter. To confirm Battery is still OK, measure voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood, as that B+ power supply is via a DIFFERENT B+ Cable from the Battery.

In US, there was a recall related to that supply cable connection at the Fuse Panel for certain BMW vehicles. I would check any similar Canadian Recall Agency (similar to NHTSA in US) and determine: 1) IF your vehicle was subject to such a recall, and 2) if the recall was performed.
George

[mainbearing]

If the "oil" looks like this color, then the evaporator may be leaking, which is a common problem. The few pictures I saw seem to be Valeo evaporator that was the problem and never a Denso evaporator.


A sticker on the HVAC housing should be visible after removing the radio telling you if the unit is a Valeo. BMW should use Denso more.

Valeo junk:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1125895

[wang890]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

The "High Side" (High Pressure) refrigerant line from the Condenser feeds the Expansion Valve which is located approximately above the blower Motor. I would suggest removing the glovebox and using a bright light to look for tell-tale "track" of refrigeration (PAG) oil, and follow that upward to the source. I would NOT remove the JB Fusebox unless necessary.

That "tray" below the Fuse Panel is the JBE Module (with two connectors, Black & Blue, on rear, as shown in your photo). You want to make sure the liquid, WHATEVER it is, does NOT get into the JBE Module or the pins/sockets of the two connectors shown. There are also two other connectors on forward side of JBE: Pins where it plugs into JB Fuse Panel and Chassis Harness Connector on outboard side.

Leak of Refrigeration Oil (IF that is what you are seeing) is normally accompanied by loss of Refrigerant Charge, which is best measured by Manifold Gauges, or INPA/ISTA Live Data of Refrigerant Pressure Sensor value. A simple "Can Tap" with a gauge would allow you to read "Equilibrium Pressure" when engine/compressor has NOT run for several hours, and that can give some clue of Charge Level.

Loss of refrigeration oil can result in damage to compressor, so you want to determine the leak source SOONER rather than "too late".

Since you are in Canada, I don't know if the US Recall related to Blower Motor Harness (which requires removal of Glovebox & JB) relates to your 323i or NOT. It would be helpful to know if work was done in that area, as that MAY be related to the leak you are seeing.

Also, IF the main Power Supply from the Battery to the JB Fuse Panel (X13020), located on Right side of JB Fuse Panel, is NOT making proper contact, that will cause loss of power to ANYTHING inside vehicle, including the CAS Module which must be powered to accept/ release the Remote Key, or crank the Starter. To confirm Battery is still OK, measure voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood, as that B+ power supply is via a DIFFERENT B+ Cable from the Battery.

In US, there was a recall related to that supply cable connection at the Fuse Panel for certain BMW vehicles. I would check any similar Canadian Recall Agency (similar to NHTSA in US) and determine: 1) IF your vehicle was subject to such a recall, and 2) if the recall was performed.
George

Thanks George for the detailed post for this one and my other one regarding the sunroof.

So the recall when I check returns these:

Your VIN:
WBAVH13597KR82408

Year:
2007

Make and Model:
323i Sedan

Recall Description:

Recall Campaign No. 2017-470: blow-by heater (11 85 17RC)
Recall Campaign No. 2017-588: Blower regulator Wiring harness (61 83 17RC)
Recall Campaign No. 2022-095: blow-by heater (11 80 22RC)
Database last updated:
July 4, 2022

I don't know if that means historic recall or recalls I can still and need to do.

So if these blower motor hasn't been done yet then the leak is probably not caused by that. Hopefully the leak I can find tomorrow and then I will just ghetto fix it with glue gun or tape. But my last experience using jb weld glue works great. The glue with 2 sides you have to mix first before use. I used that to fix an ac valve on a Mercedes ml320 after having trouble finding the part. Worked great. That car the shop when recharging ac put in dye and sealant that works for small cracks. I shine uv light on that valve even I sealed well I can see the sealant worked on filling some cracks I didn't see earlier. Ac still working on that car after parked for over a year.

I will definitely try fixing this one first over the other issues like sunroof. Tomorrow I will remove the glove box to take a look.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by wang890

... my last experience using jb weld glue works great. The glue with 2 sides you have to mix first before use. I used that to fix an ac valve on a Mercedes ml320 after having trouble finding the part. Worked great.
That car the shop when recharging ac put in dye and sealant that works for small cracks. I shine uv light on that valve even I sealed well I can see the sealant worked on filling some cracks I didn't see earlier. Ac still working on that car after parked for over a year.

Can't tell if you're saying the BMW has UV Dye or that was the Mercedes. Of course UV dye (with blacklight & glasses) would quickly identify refrigerant leak.

I'm NOT familiar with recall system in Canada, but the three recalls you listed are same as NHTSA Recalls in US (2 in 2017, and repeat of "Blow-by Heater" or Crankcase Breather Heater recall in early 2022. At least for US Cars (which your 323i may actually be classified as), there is a BMW Web site that indicates what recalls are outstanding. See "References" pdf I attached to your other thread:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...08&postcount=3

For epoxy to seal a leak in a high pressure line where operating pressure can near 300 PSIG, you would need to thoroughly clean the area to which epoxy is applied, and better to wrap it with fiberglas cloth, and/or tape after epoxy applied. Not sure that would last.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[wang890]

Ok so after a day there looks like no new oil in the plastic tray. So it must be from previous repair or something. I put all the trim back now.

Yeah the Mercedes was bone dry as the shop called it and I got the shop to refill after I replaced the two ac valves one at firewall one at the front engine area. Refilled with uv dye and sealant.

The Mercedes is well designed. It will not turn on compressor when there is no ac and oil. So you are saying this bmw can damage compressor if leaking too much? The ac blows cold and works right away when turned on. It's as cold as my mom's new 2021 corolla hybrid, but a little less cold than the 2004 civic hybrid I had.

Definitely need ac here last year we had a heat wave and it was 50 degrees c for a week. I got the Mercedes fixed just before that. Drove one day in this heat and it was really miserable. Then a week later got the civic hybrid and drove that for 8 month til it broke ran out of oil, should have trusted the dipstic and mileage which had 420k km. It was 800 bucks and I sold it for 500. Spent a little money on it like the grid charger. Guy bought it did an engine swap himself and we are friends now and I get car repair advice from him and I pass on Facebook deals. He got a 2006 civic si for 2500 Cad and said has more than that in mod in there. Leaking vtec something seal easy fix. I have room for just 3 cars, and I will roll more cars next year for sure. Don't think I'll keep the bmw for too long. Lol great car this 323i. Longer trip I can get less than 8L/100km. Normal 30km a day steep uphill all the way on highway and back twice a day. Uses about 9 to 10L 100km. Just a little more than my 1.8 L nissan sentra. The ml320 in comparison uses 14.5L.

I might mod the 323i a bit if they make cold air intake and exhaust for it. Police in Canada are now very active to give people vehicle inspection notice. I see so many riced out young people car getting towed with CVSE officer car next to it. On Facebook I see many cars for sale due to the VIN. Mostly just lowered car. Some are not even noticeable mod at all. I had some fun with the Integra I got stock in 2005, then modified it spending 10k only to wreck it within a year. Learnt summer tires in Vancouver bc on the rain is not a great idea. Here I live is like a dessert and the bmw comes with summer tire and winter on rims. No complaint on the summer tire. Car is even good in the rain. We had a lot of flash flood this year and I had the Nissan sentra going through flooded roads and was fine. The bmw I would be a little worried with summer and rwd. I do enjoy the rwd pushing instead of pulling feel.

Insurance is a bit annoying here when you switch cars. The Japanese cars cost 10 bucks to switch insurance over, this bmw is 30 and the ml320 suv is 50. So I figure they charge you for European cars as well as the size of the car.

OK back to sleep now.